I agree on the inexpensive Harbor Freight tools. Thankfully I have a whole assortment of Air Tools from decades ago from doing autobody and refinishing work. No, the new ones don't last. I recently completed stripping my entire house exterior, repairing, replacing as needed, sanding, priming and painting. Inexpensive Harbor Freight Tools did the whole job and are still showing no signs of wearing out.
I just picked up a buffet with the top and the girl who I got it from painted all of it gray. I think she luckily didn’t use any primer but I’m curious if you’d approach removing the paint differently than just removing finish alone? And I’ll be ordering within a week or two so can’t wait to get started once I finish off a couple other projects. Thanks!
Hi. What would you suggest when using 2 different methods,say chemical on topbecause ofthe extra urethane finish along with scraper on sides because it is still original. Will the wood color/ texture deviate between the 2 methods? Would it produce change to the uptake of the stain? Thank you!
Appreciate the advice on grit and type of sandpaper and the card tool. What about advice on sanding turned and curved pieces? How do you apply and dry new finish to those curved piece where you can't stand them up, like arm pieces?
I just used your finish for a Heywood Wakefield hutch and messed up the long drawer on the bottom. How do I strip your finish. It has the stain and 1 coat if finish on it.
Hi, I just used your kit to do a hutch in wheat. I messed up the long bottom drawer and was wondering how to strip it down again. I have the stain and one coat of finish on it. Do I need to use stripper or can I sand it?
I'm confused by the color of sandpaper. When I google what tan paper is made out of, it says aluminum oxide which you say not to use. Do you know what your tan is made out of?
