Im in the middle of this exact job - when removing the old tensioner there was no gasket - when i opened the new tensioner in the kit there was no gasket either - did you fit the new tensioner with or without a gasket as there is an oil line feeding into the tensioner from the block - after fitting everything and pulling the pin making the chain tight i manually cranked for a while - oil in the oil pump started flowing and oil started coming from the tensioner - im wondering if this oil is hydraulic of just lubracating the tensioner inside parts - cheers
Hi thanks for watching i honestly can't remember if it had a gasket, i don't think it did to be honest. If it wasn't shown in the video i would say it doesn't have one. Hope you get it fixed smoothly.
Great video. Can I ask how where you able to break lose the crank bolt because mine just turns with the engine, is there perhaps a way you lock the flywheel or something?
Thanks bud. The renualt I was working on was torqued to infinity and beyond I had to lock the flywheel and use breaker bars to get it loose. But all is good now thank you for the reply
Hello Adam, quick question how easy/hard was it to replace the oilpump chain and tensioner als well? I planned on doing it, but I can't get the oil sump off (because it is really glued and stuck on there). And the oilpump looks quite complicated so I am not sure if I will need additional parts like oilpump gasket when I loosen the bolts for the oil pump to remove the chain. How is your experience while doing this? Other wise I am leaving this as is
Hi Bjorn, thanks for watching. If your struggling to get the sump off due to glue I'm guessing it will have been off before most likely. You should be OK to leave it on but it's best to check of course if you can. You would need a gasket if I remember right and the chain ofcourse, but I doubt there is much chance of the oil pump chain fail compared to the cam chain. No tensioner to fail either. So you could get away with just doing the timing chain. Hope that helps.
Hi there thanks for watching, not a daft question at all, an observant one actually! When using impact tools there's no need to lock off the cam or crank as the torque just removes bolts without spinning the crank. Hope that helps.
Hi thanks for watching. I honestly can't remember it's been so long now done so many since. Have a 1.2 dig t qashqai to do next. Hope you got it sorted.
Hi Adam, Did you try your Kielder driver for the crank bolt at all, or did you "give up" from the beginning? You did mention its Nm torque, but I'm afraid I did not quite get the value...😳 What Snap-On Model was eventually able to loose the bolt? (the Snap-Ons differ in their torque power depending on the model). The Snap-On with an extension seemed to be too weak for the job anyway ... 😟 Thanks a lot in advance!
Hi thanks for watching. I did try the smaller kielder yes, no joy, i now have a bigger version of the Kielder which has loads of power, removes rusted wheel nuts with ease, the smaller one couldn't. Not sure which snap on it was but i know they had to return it several times for replacements. Can't remember the torque value either sorry!
@@adamautomotive Hi! Thank you very much for your reply. A friend of mine working in a garage recommended me a "budget" 18V driver with 1900 Nm break torque. I have already purchased one and am looking forward to the job. By the way - I presume you used an OEM replacement kit? If yes could you please recommend any?
@marko6107 hi sorry for the delay in replying, only just saw this, glad you got a bigger driver sorted hope you got the Job done OK. Yes I used oem there are many manufacturers but stick to the main ones like gates, skf, etc, decent oem manufacturers.
I have a similiar engine although mine is a renault Sandero but it idles roughly but drive normal although there is a reponse delay do you think its the timing chain?just asking.
Hi Ian thanks for watching sorry for the delay in replying. I did not torque the oil pump bolts or engine mount. I do that by feel generally, tight, but not too tight, depending on the materials etc. Less tight if aluminium etc. Not the proper correct way to do it perfectly but in the 22 years I've worked on cars in garages all over Europe. It's rare that you torque every little nut and bolt. That's where experience and feel comes in. If it's head gasket bolts or wheel nuts etc then yes, always torque to correct specs. Kind regards, Adam
Thanks for the video! It is very helpful. At what mileage did you change the chain? Did the broken guide make some noise or did you change the full kit as a preventive measure? Many thanks.
Hi thanks for watching and the positive comment. It was around 130k miles. It was rattling quite bad due to broken guide so done for this reason. Kind regards, Adam
Hi.. thanks alot for the video... where can i find that diagram? i have the same problem on my 0.9 TCe but i dont find the diagrame anyware.. thanks alot
I have a Renault sandero 2018 model, the check engine light is on, milage is above 160000km, the timing chain was replaced, oil recently changed but the car has an idling problem, hard start, sometimes delayed acceleration, rumbling sound at the exhaust, at this point the OBD 2 scanner shows code p0011 and then when idling for too long the check engine light starts blinking and if I accelerate the abs and traction control light come on then it completely looses power, the obd 2 scanner says cylinder 1 is miss firing at this point.
I have the same defect in a Sandero 0.9 from 2019. 90,000 km, the timing chain has not been changed yet, the check engine blinks, ABS ESP and the orange wire are on, the accelerator pedal cuts. With the car scanner on the phone, I find cylinder 2 misfire. I delete the error, but after a while it reappears. I mention that I put new spark plugs, but the defect still occurs. Please tell me how you repaired your Sandero. which part needs to be changed. Thanks in advance for your help.
@@danielursachi1582 Hi I changed the camshaft sensor and I got better performance but the check engine light is still there, it only blinks when idling, when it blinks I don't accelerate then the ABS ESP lights don't come on. I'm planning on getting the Crankshaft sensor checked if it needs replacement, if that fails it's do the compression test on the cam phaser
@@ProfSMS Thank you very much for the quick answer, I may change the timing chain tomorrow, I'm afraid that if it's too weak, the cam phaser or even the intake valves will fail. I will look to see where the camshaft sensor is to replace it as well. And I will also look for where the crankshaft sensor is. If the on-board lights come on again after changing the timing chain, I should also change these two sensors. Thank you very much for your help.
@@ProfSMS Hello dear friend. I found what was the problem with my car. Because I drove on LPG for 4 years, the petrol in the tank got old. I put 5 or 10 liters of fresh gasoline every month, but the tank has 50 liters. I put LPG aftermarket when my sandero had 4000 km, it was still new. The old gasoline in the tank messed up the gasoline computer, and the gasoline computer messed up the LPG computer. So on LPG I had a fuel mixture that was too rich that the engine could not burn completely, it lit up the lights on my dashboard and cut off my accelerator pedal. In conclusion, if you have LPG in your sandero, throw away the old petrol from the tank and put a lot of fresh petrol. And you only go on gas for a few days or hundreds of kilometers. You will see that the car will miraculously recover, and you won't have to change anything about it. I removed 45 liters of old gasoline from the tank, it was red like diesel, it was no longer yellow/green. Please confirm if you have read this message, I would be very happy if I helped you. Just like you made me happy when you helped me. Thank you.
Enjoyed the video, though was disappointed that you spent so much time stripping the engine, to show so little about the actual job of fitting the chain - The reason why I watched the video?
Hi thanks for watching and the great comment. I hear your point, that part was the hardest to film plus its actually really simple, I will get a new way of mounting the camera to my head so things like that are more visible in the future videos. Kind regards, Adam
Would you like a little chuckle ..Well, it certainly gave me one..... I was talking to a guy whose timing chain was ratting on his Dacia Duster (The EXACT same engine as this)... He took it to a garage...They quoted him £800 GBP to replace...... He said it was too expensive and he said there is a video on YT and he is going to follow it and TRY to do it himself 🤣😅😆😂🤣😆😅🤣🤣😂 Rest In Peace his car engine... Or should I say Rest in PIECES I said to him...... HINT there is a reason it is £800 to replace it.... Just saying! I am going to "accidentally" bump into him in 3 Months' and ask him how it went........ I have a feeling it will be a VERY bad outcome. It is OK to change the oil and oil filter on your own car ..But this type of work is ONLY for competent skilled car technicians . OK Wathcing a video on YT does NOT turn you into a skilled and compitent car technician... LEAVE THIS TYPE OF JOB TO THE EXPERTS PLEASE.
No worse than a cam belt, if fact the chain has coloured links so you can't go wrong, nothing on a cam belt is marked. £800 is having a laugh for a four hour job, probably 2 hours if you have done one before. Instead of super expensive battery impact gun buy a Clarke mains powered one, cheap and about the most powerful one for sale, I removed Calibra rear bearing cover with it which normally requires a scaffold pole......
I have a 2gen captur 0.9 tce with 60.000klm that start to develop some rattling and by some videos that I've seen with the same noise I think my car suffers from the same problem. Something is very wrong with the quality of renault engines! 🤬🤬🤬🤬
Hi thanks for watching! Good comment, it's not just Renault that are guilty of using plastic parts in engines, most manufacturers do the same. Plastic in engines will always fail eventually!
@@adamautomotive went to renault and there is a confirmed problem with the turbo wastegate valve on all of the tce engines! supposably will be fixed by firmware (🤔)
