Car lost drive and required a new clutch. This was replaced and the car drove out of the garage with the clutch auto releasing the parking brake. Parked the car on a hill facing downwards. It will auto release the parking brake to go forwards down hill but will not release the parking brake automatically to go up hill in reverse. Similarly, it will release the parking brake to reverse down hill but not automatically to drive up hill. When parked on level ground it will release to go forwards or in reverse. CAN ANY HELP
Modern cars with their gadgets are all well & good until they start acting up. I've pinned your comment top the top of the list so hopefully someone can help.
Excellent, I checked mine and the pin from the pedal had jumped out of the switch. I gently bent the switch housing to one side and popped it back in. Worked right away! Great fix. Thanks a million :)
Hello,sorry for the very late reply,RU-vid decided not to tell me you had commented. I'm glad it worked & potentially saved you some money in a garage visit
I have had a similar issue since September last year and finally managed to get a spare part at reasonable cost. A brand new switch from a dealer costs about £75, online they're about £45 with postage. I managed to get a new part on eBay for £30, so was lucky. Fixing the switch is a bit of a fiddle, but it also helps if the old unit isn't cable-tied in place. If you notice on the new device in the video that there is a small lever on the white side of the switch, this pushes towards the electric socket when closed. opening it allows the lever to then be pulled away from the unit which forms part of the clip holding it in place. To fit the new part, carefully remove the yellow clip on the lever switch and attach the electrics plug. Ensure the small small lever is open and pulled away (but not detached) from the body, as described above. There is a small lug which you seat through a mounting hole at the top of the clutch pedal, the unit can then be adjusted in place and the securing pin (attached to the small lever) pushed in place and the the lever then pushed towards the electric socket to secure into place. Again, carefully pull down the main lever switch onto the metal bar that sticks out from the clutch pedal arm and secure it in place with the yellow clip. For me, as soon as I switched on the engine, I saw the yellow warning light illuminate briefly and then go out. A quick drive around and the warning light and message have disappeared, so hopefully the problem is fixed. looking at the unit, they're not really that robust so I'm not surprised they break so easily. As for £75 for a replacement from a dealer, I think the price is extortionate, even at £30 for the one I got is a bit steep. The time to fix this about 10 minutes to remove the old unit after realising it was secured with a cable tie, less than 5 minutes to fix the new one, I dread to think how much a dealer would charge, that together with the journey to and from the garage and all the messing about in between. Thanks to the original poster of the video. Next job is to fix the fuel flap lock.
The clutch pedal switch feels so cheaply made it's unreal and they are really fiddly (but straightforward ) to replace.You had a touch with yours, I had to buy one from Renault for £80 & change. I've not had to touch my fuel filler lock,YET.
I have just replaced mine, it's an easy job, a bit fiddly but I am so glad to have it working again. I was going to Vlog doing it but I needed my phone for the light and the room, great video and thank you for posting 👍👍👍
@@viewfromthecab8075 I wanted to change the cabin filter but when i say you had to remove the clutch pedal I thought it could stay where it is lol, my spine is crumbling so maybe I could teach one of my kids to do it 🤣🤣
@@viewfromthecab8075 I wish lol, LHD cars require glove boy removal, it's a ball ache whichever way, designers must really hate mechanics and tinkerers
Just wedge the sensor clip up in the on position with a bit of blutac and the sensor works, it releases the handbrake as you pull away like normal and with no issues. To clear the servicing spanner, Insert card so ignition comes on, don't start the car, on the right hand stalk control, scroll onto the servicing screen , press and hold the lower button on the stalk, the display will flash, keep button held and it will then reset the servicing spanner light. And if your having trouble changing the rear brake pads/discs because of the electronic handbrake, normally the car needs to be put into servicing mode with a diagnostic computer/OBD2. To get around this, disconnect the handbrake power cable behind the rear wheel, use a 6v battery and some wire on the 2 internal connections, if pads lock on reverse the wire until the handbrake motor stops and has released the pads(the noise will change), you can then change your brake pads/discs, just remember the brake pistons screw in by turning them left (anti clockwise) and applying pressure, you cannot just compress them like normal pistons, you need the correct tool which costs about £15-20
Great advice,I honestly never thought about blue tac to hold it place. The advice about the brake pistons is also sound,I ruined a brake caliper years ago (on a different car) by trying to compress instead of gently applying pressure. I pinned your comment to the top because more people need to read it.
Hi. Even after you changed the switch the check warning still came up. Which could be the reason for the spanner. Do you have to clear the "fault" through the OBD2 socket?
Yes, I had a guy hook the car up to a very expensive looking gadget & he cleared it off for me. If you can get a mate to do it it'll be the price of a drink.
The yellow/black bit come off mine but I haven´t noticed any difference to the car, no lights, nothing. Is this piece mandatory or what does exactly ? Thanks
@@viewfromthecab8075 Thanks for answering so I can drive safely without that bit broken or do I need to replace it ? I can´t notice any difference this is why I am asking
@viewfromthecab8075 thanks also got the cabin filter changed, which requires removing the clutch pedal. Now I get a single click when the clutch is 80% up on release. So annoying 🙄
Have you managed to solve the spanner light? I’m in the same boat as you, EPB works fine, the breaks are fine, new brake fluid and the light is still on. I’m guessing it’s just a error code that needs resetting?
Hello,sorry for the very late reply,RU-vid decided not to tell me you had commented. I had to have the spanner light reset by a man with one of those super expensive code machine things,he said the cheap ones don't really do so well. Good luck with your spanner light,I personally find it a bit irritating even if it's not a big problem.
Hello,sorry for the very late reply,RU-vid decided not to tell me you had commented. I would suggest taking it to a mechanic,can never be too safe with brakes.
The little yellow bit has came off mine after hanging loose for a while. I’m also getting cruise control/speed limiter faults. Before I order one up- Could this be related? Garage has said it could be the clock spring which would be silly money to replace!
Hello,sorry for the very late reply,RU-vid decided not to tell me you had commented.It's possible I suppose,maybe get it connected to a proper obd machine to find otut?
@@viewfromthecab8075 Unfortunately it is the clock spring- replaced the sensor switch myself and still nothing. Thanks for the video- it helped a lot. Now faced with around £500 for the clock spring repair!
@@viewfromthecab8075 Tell me about it, the issue was the glow plugs... Changing them fixed the ebrake ... Coincidence or some weird electrical oddness.
Excellent info thanks, but OMG, the price of this deliberately weak design sensor is absolutely offensive, and Renault are laughing at us all the way to the bank at (currently) £91a pop. See the two pockets in the plastic arm, right at the weakest point (where your finger points at 0.20)....that's deliberate weakening and is why you need to avoid buying another one. Bad enough that the clutch pedal has to be unbolted from the bulkhead to change the cabin blower filter, but this sensor arm is so weak that just leaning the pedal against the centre console is enough to break it. So your sensor arm has broken, just like Renault intended, so just leave it like that. It's modified itself down to the length it wants to be at, so all you need to do is make a small collet perhaps from a 13mm bolt head or bit of brass bar, with a 4.2mm hole in the centre to slide onto the operating spindle shaft. Cross drilled right through and tapped M3. One side for a lock screw, and the other side for an approx 20mm long bit of M3 studding or long thread bolt. Then drill & tap across a bit of round nylon approx 8mm diameter x 4.5mm thick to make a wear pad ( remember this slides a couple of mm at every clutch press because the sensor centre is not on the same centre as the clutch pedal pivot). Install and adjust to get same arm travel and no fouling, making sure the plastic arm still has a little travel left when the pedal is fully pressed. Even if you have to buy a tap, and a bit of studding it's still under a fiver. The above sounds a lot of explaining for something that's a very simple modification. I'm happy to send pictures & dimensions if you want to make another video covering this cost effective modification. I'm not very IT savvy but if there's a way to PM me, I'll respond. I'm sure the Brexit vote means there's at least 51% of us who are already, or would be, offended by Renault's deliberate poor design & overpricing of spares. Put simply...if it breaks, don't buy another if you can avoid it.
Sorry for the delay in responding,RU-vid is shocking at notifications. You are 100% correct,it is deliberate & renault ( and other car makers) are taking the p**s & laughing all the way to the bank. Everything about modern cars seems designed to be costly & time consuming.