Renault Grand Scenic III clutch pedal sensor switch 

Car lost drive and required a new clutch. This was replaced and the car drove out of the garage with the clutch auto releasing the parking brake. Parked the car on a hill facing downwards. It will auto release the parking brake to go forwards down hill but will not release the parking brake automatically to go up hill in reverse. Similarly, it will release the parking brake to reverse down hill but not automatically to drive up hill. When parked on level ground it will release to go forwards or in reverse. CAN ANY HELP

Excellent, I checked mine and the pin from the pedal had jumped out of the switch. I gently bent the switch housing to one side and popped it back in. Worked right away! Great fix. Thanks a million :)

I have had a similar issue since September last year and finally managed to get a spare part at reasonable cost. A brand new switch from a dealer costs about £75, online they're about £45 with postage. I managed to get a new part on eBay for £30, so was lucky. Fixing the switch is a bit of a fiddle, but it also helps if the old unit isn't cable-tied in place. If you notice on the new device in the video that there is a small lever on the white side of the switch, this pushes towards the electric socket when closed. opening it allows the lever to then be pulled away from the unit which forms part of the clip holding it in place. To fit the new part, carefully remove the yellow clip on the lever switch and attach the electrics plug. Ensure the small small lever is open and pulled away (but not detached) from the body, as described above. There is a small lug which you seat through a mounting hole at the top of the clutch pedal, the unit can then be adjusted in place and the securing pin (attached to the small lever) pushed in place and the the lever then pushed towards the electric socket to secure into place. Again, carefully pull down the main lever switch onto the metal bar that sticks out from the clutch pedal arm and secure it in place with the yellow clip. For me, as soon as I switched on the engine, I saw the yellow warning light illuminate briefly and then go out. A quick drive around and the warning light and message have disappeared, so hopefully the problem is fixed. looking at the unit, they're not really that robust so I'm not surprised they break so easily. As for £75 for a replacement from a dealer, I think the price is extortionate, even at £30 for the one I got is a bit steep. The time to fix this about 10 minutes to remove the old unit after realising it was secured with a cable tie, less than 5 minutes to fix the new one, I dread to think how much a dealer would charge, that together with the journey to and from the garage and all the messing about in between. Thanks to the original poster of the video. Next job is to fix the fuel flap lock.

I have just replaced mine, it's an easy job, a bit fiddly but I am so glad to have it working again. I was going to Vlog doing it but I needed my phone for the light and the room, great video and thank you for posting 👍👍👍

Learn something every day not matter big or small. Knowledge is boss! but don't tell the wife.

Just wedge the sensor clip up in the on position with a bit of blutac and the sensor works, it releases the handbrake as you pull away like normal and with no issues. To clear the servicing spanner, Insert card so ignition comes on, don't start the car, on the right hand stalk control, scroll onto the servicing screen , press and hold the lower button on the stalk, the display will flash, keep button held and it will then reset the servicing spanner light. And if your having trouble changing the rear brake pads/discs because of the electronic handbrake, normally the car needs to be put into servicing mode with a diagnostic computer/OBD2. To get around this, disconnect the handbrake power cable behind the rear wheel, use a 6v battery and some wire on the 2 internal connections, if pads lock on reverse the wire until the handbrake motor stops and has released the pads(the noise will change), you can then change your brake pads/discs, just remember the brake pistons screw in by turning them left (anti clockwise) and applying pressure, you cannot just compress them like normal pistons, you need the correct tool which costs about £15-20

Hi. Even after you changed the switch the check warning still came up. Which could be the reason for the spanner. Do you have to clear the "fault" through the OBD2 socket?

The yellow/black bit come off mine but I haven´t noticed any difference to the car, no lights, nothing. Is this piece mandatory or what does exactly ? Thanks

Hi there, how did you manage to take off the whole piece? There are any screws? By the way, great job on help us. Thank you so much.

Do you hear a "Click" sound when the clutch is released? Ive been hearing this since I've replaced this part.

Have you managed to solve the spanner light? I’m in the same boat as you, EPB works fine, the breaks are fine, new brake fluid and the light is still on. I’m guessing it’s just a error code that needs resetting?

changed mine today and handbrake error is still on and doesn't release automatically. how is the parking brake supposed to work?

Mine is cable tied do I need to replace cable tie when I replace the sensor?

Where is best to buy the part?

The little yellow bit has came off mine after hanging loose for a while. I’m also getting cruise control/speed limiter faults. Before I order one up- Could this be related? Garage has said it could be the clock spring which would be silly money to replace!

I have similar issues with mine except the ebrake will release in reverse im guessing that means its not this sensor

Excellent info thanks, but OMG, the price of this deliberately weak design sensor is absolutely offensive, and Renault are laughing at us all the way to the bank at (currently) £91a pop. See the two pockets in the plastic arm, right at the weakest point (where your finger points at 0.20)....that's deliberate weakening and is why you need to avoid buying another one. Bad enough that the clutch pedal has to be unbolted from the bulkhead to change the cabin blower filter, but this sensor arm is so weak that just leaning the pedal against the centre console is enough to break it. So your sensor arm has broken, just like Renault intended, so just leave it like that. It's modified itself down to the length it wants to be at, so all you need to do is make a small collet perhaps from a 13mm bolt head or bit of brass bar, with a 4.2mm hole in the centre to slide onto the operating spindle shaft. Cross drilled right through and tapped M3. One side for a lock screw, and the other side for an approx 20mm long bit of M3 studding or long thread bolt. Then drill & tap across a bit of round nylon approx 8mm diameter x 4.5mm thick to make a wear pad ( remember this slides a couple of mm at every clutch press because the sensor centre is not on the same centre as the clutch pedal pivot). Install and adjust to get same arm travel and no fouling, making sure the plastic arm still has a little travel left when the pedal is fully pressed. Even if you have to buy a tap, and a bit of studding it's still under a fiver. The above sounds a lot of explaining for something that's a very simple modification. I'm happy to send pictures & dimensions if you want to make another video covering this cost effective modification. I'm not very IT savvy but if there's a way to PM me, I'll respond. I'm sure the Brexit vote means there's at least 51% of us who are already, or would be, offended by Renault's deliberate poor design & overpricing of spares. Put simply...if it breaks, don't buy another if you can avoid it.

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