Have to say, that is one of the best videos, and best results (considering the state that 'wall' was in. You're clearly fantastic at your job. Proper master tradesmen, they are thin on the ground..
Really good work but here in the states my competitors would charge $300 for a wall like that and just one shot a thick coat of quick set and texture it out. Very frustrating here to do work properly.
I have a very poor Tyrolean wall that needs a lot of knocking off and patching. Can I apply Tyrolean over the already painted surface. I’ll use your tender and primer for the patches but I’m worried about going onto the original surface when I blend. I love your videos and I’ve learned plastering through you and your kindness to help people like me. Thanks very much
Alright pal, when we are using hp12 to sort out poor walls like this, we’ll blue grit it, coat & mesh and once it’s gone off, we will pin the scrim coat with the big plastic polish and pins to secure it. Just a thought👍👍 always good to see someone else work 😂👍
Nice job! Try turning the mesh the opposite way it’s rolled mate! It won’t curl away from the wall-and is easier to bed in ! Just a tip that I do which until I was told never even occurred to me👌
I wish i knew how to post pictures on here of the wall i have to render in the next couple of weeks, we have hacked off old render that had cracks appearing but soon realised the render was actually as good as you can get and was a nightmare to remove that then only left 1 outcome for the cracks, the brickwork had large cracks all over it, there was no mortar in the joints, every service was being brought outside via that wall and the plumbers had butchered the walls and filled the holes around the pipes with pieces of brick. Not to mention the lack of mortar had caused some bricks to push towardds the cavity as we were hacking off. We came off the job and got a bricky in to make the wall right for rendering but have no idea what we will return to but i can honestly say working around 5 yes 5 windows and door will actually seem like a walk in the park no doubt.
Great chanel bud watched most of ur tutorials 1 question im from Ireland and the most common sand and cement finnish we have is a nap finish the a napping sponge iv looked 4 this on ur videos and have cn u do it??
Hi - I have a repair to do on the front of the bay. The horizontal is fine but the angled bell went all green and the concrete paint went soft / permeable. I have scrapped off about 4mm of render some of which was damp so obviously moisture was getting through. Should I remove the lot or can I just patch over the existing render? Its a strip the width of the bay by about 9 inches on an angle? Do I need mesh to give it strength considering what has happened?
Hi Blaine I’m going to try my hand at plastering one wall in my bathroom.I’ve ripped the tiles off obviously half the plaster has come off with it so I’m going to take it down to the brick.have you got a link to a video that takes you through all the stages.also has a small window with a deep recess.
Thank you mate. I haven't actually - I tried years ago but my old camera broke so I lost all the footage. Got curved ceiling vids but no bays I'm afraid!
@@PlasteringForBeginners Thanks for the reply, I really trust your advice and have done a outside wall from your tips, but have no idea how you would rule something curved :-)
I would of fixed (plug and screwed) EML, Galvanised Expanded Metal Lath or Galvanised External/Internal Rib Lath sheets to the wall, then applied two coats of a sand-cement-lime mix, using 6 parts plastering sand, 1 part cement, 1 part lime.
There doesn’t tend to be DPC or DPM used on garden walls so where the render ends doesn’t really matter. Any moisture can still travel up the wall and cause the render to blow. Good question though mate 👍🏼 I’m sure a lot of people are thinking that same, hope this helps
Complete nonsense to knock the wall down or build one next to it, if you want it 100% straight just use polystyrene sheets or hard insulation sheets and then you can render it. Other alternative is decorative or real stone tiles or composite cladding, but why knock stable wall, doesn't make sense
Both options would be expensive. You can’t use these sheets on walls with 40mm dips and humps- it wouldn’t work. You’d have to render the wall flat first, apply the insulation and then render it afterwards (with render that’s 3x more expensive than sand cement). As for the tiles, that’s the same. You’d have to render the wall first (like I did, which is a lot longer than usual due to the state of the wall), then spend the time to tile/ grout it afterwards. Except your material costs for this decorative wall tile comes to £30+ a SQM…that’s not including the costs to render it beforehand!! And then you’d still have the big gap between wall and building. The builder was there building pier in the video. He could have just throw a quick block walk in front and saved a lot of trouble leading to a flatter, more appealing wall. It would have saved time, costs on materials and Labour 👍 That’s just my opinion pal - I appreciate your view
You have definitely done a brilliant job on this - I hope your customer appreciates your talents. Is it possible to render over this type of wall using the same method you used here drive.google.com/file/d/1dV7QcKEHKduYTSY0y-Zm3faVfnGeQVDG/view?usp=sharing
