I put a 12V battery in the load light part by mistake, I disconnect it and put it in its place, the battery charges but the LOAD LIGHT part no longer works, how can you help me?
Make sure the load is turned on at the controller and take a meter and check the voltage at the load terminals.. If you have 12 volts minimum your controller is fine, if you don't you will have to send your controller back for repair.
very helpful video. What I do with my set up is, I've added a two prong rocker on/off switch to one of the solar lines so I don't fry my controller. I just flick the switch when I have to disconnect the battery. It turns the solar power off or on. Works perfectly.
Great advice on breaker locations. Add: These breakers MUST be DC non-polarized. Well, assuming that you would like to avoid fires if the breaker trips under load. I’d add that once the proper wire size is determined, use the next larger size. Your properly sized breakers for your current will then ABSOLUTELY protect your wiring. Remember, breakers protect your wiring, not your devices.
Only if you are running dc loads off the charge controller. If you are just charging batteries for an inverter then no you won't need to hook up the dc load terminals. If you have anymore questions please let me know. Thanks for watching.
Please help me understand by describing what you're doing when making the adjustments. The owners Manuel is impossible to understand. I want to set my float voltage higher. It keeps shutting off the charging at 13.8 volts and I have 25 batteries in my battery bank. I need it to keep charging since I run my entire house 24/7
13.8 volts is the float charge for most 12 volt batteries, that is why it is shutting off. Does it start back charging when your voltage drops below 13.8 volts?
When choosing battery TYPE - - - > choose USER USER will let you step thru setting up BULK, BOOST, FLOAT & EQUALIZATION When finished leave the battery type setting on USER. *Research the BATTERY manual for the recommended manufacture's settings.
Hi friends, my mppt rover 40a is not giving accurate battery percentage, it is propperly configured in 12v and lifepo4 battery, battery is new and mppt too, any other setting to make or help? thanks, regards.
How do you know its not reading accurately? Can you give me an example please? Depending on how it is reading there could be a couple of things you can try.
hi, the battery user manual have some parameters about battery porcentage, for example says 13.5v = 100% / 13.1v = 40% etc, and the mppt always thinks that the battery have 40 or 50% more available percenteage, the lifepo4 is selected and 12v system is selected, i own a power queen 12.8v 100ah, thanks@@HippieHillHomestead
Same issue with mine. Everything is programmed and wired correctly, but the monitor always shows 100%. Also had the issue with the pv terminals wired/labeled incorrectly.
Such a horrible design. I’ve had so many of these units break. There are so many easy ways to improve the design, like having lugs that connect by tightening a nut onto a bolt. Instead you stick a wire up into a hole and tighten it using these screws that are sunken into the unit. It’s just unnecessarily bad design
This is the first Renogy charge controller I have used. Tell me what went wrong with the ones you have had to tear up. How long did they last before breaking? Did they hurt your batteries? Sorry for all the questions but I like to hear about real world problems with a product.Thanks for sharing your experience.
We have three Rover charge controllers the 30amp, 40amp, and 100 amp. We've only had the 100 amp for a year but got the 40amp in 2020. We haven't had an issue with any of them so I'm curious what went wrong.
Technically yes. But if you don't have solar you don't need a charge controller. If you are waiting on your PV then yes hook it up it won't hurt anything.
I have the same controller I have a 100ah renogy battery "AGM" on the controller there's no agm setting there's only USE FLD GEL SLD LIT any suggestion?
Thank you. Newbie here. I been building my system the past 6 months-money. Lol. Anyhow, the charge controller a 40amp renogy is just turned on. I left it AUTO. 12v Li batteries. Do i need a load to prevent overcharge or can i set a parameter to prevent overcharging ? No panels nor lpad nor inverter are connected just ye.
Thank you for the video. I also have the 20 amp Rover. I’m a little confused about the maximum VOC for 400 watts of solar connected in series/parallel. The manual says the Maximum VOC is 100 volts. My 4 renogy 100 watt panels are 22.3 volts x 4 which is less then 100. Does that mean I can connect 400 watts to 20 amp charge controller?
Are you building a 12 or 24 volt system? If your building a 12 volt system 400 watts divided by 12 is 33.33 amps. Well over 20 amps. If your building a 24 volt system then you have to put two of your panels in series. So you would have 2 series at 24 volts. 400 divided by 24 is 16.66 amps. So if you are building a 24 volt system your 20 amp controller will work.
I've been running a solar system, two 200 amp/hour batteries in parallel for 6 years, no fuses, no breakers and no problems, 3000 -6000watt inverter. All's well.
When you don't use breakers or fuses your safety and the buildings safety is at risk. Not to mention your insurance company will not pay for any damage if a fire occurs. Breakers and fuses are cheap comparatively speaking so why not use them? I highly recommend installing some on your system. If you live in the US the NEC code requires them. Good luck and stay safe.
