I tackle a repair of an APC UPS that will no longer turn on while nearly destroying it and electrocuting myself in the process. TL;DR: Replace C40 and C41
If I had done that relay repair, when I finally receive the proper relay it is 99.99999% chance that it will NEVER be replaced LOL! Great job in explaining the troubleshooting process and everything you did. I actually have TWO of these exact model UPSs in the queue to repair and I didn't even really knew where to start (which should have been obvious) but your video has definitely inspired to tackle them and hopefully repair them. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Brilliant! Customer had some clucking and clacking at first then no regular ac operation. I suspected a relay but thanks to you I found 22uf caps in control circuit exhibiting signs of high esr. Replaced c40,41 and few others weak in that area. Used low esr high temp leaded versions. A 4.7uf and 10uf also replaced. All surface mount. To open, more screws hiding under front panels. Bat cover moves down and control board cover moves up. Carefull the ribbon cable.
Thanks, like others I replaced C40 and C41, I cant reitterate how careful you need to be with those traces, they are unnecessarily thin, and pulled pads off both C40 and C41, luckily I was able to trace them back to near by components.
I've just carried out a repair on one of these models (UK version - 230VAC), it had exactly the same fault, the rattling relays on startup then fail to detect mains supply. I changed all the relays however the fault remained. Thank you for doing this video - it saved me hours of fault tracing - it turned out on mine that C40 was OK but C41 was low at about 15uf - should have been 22uf. Changed C41 and the unit sprang into life. Thanks again for this.
Great video, many thanks! I have a mere APC350 that went crazy, and the new battery didn't fix it. Even though it is likely very different inside, you really helped me get the gist of these things. It seems to be a common failure mode of power circuitry that not only is it failing electrolytics, but it is often the smaller feedback or sensing ones that die. Thank you!!
Excellent video on how to repair the most common fault in these UPS. The diagram is the same as the APC RS100. Thank you. Excelente video de como reparar la falla mas común en estos UPS. El diagrama es el mismo del APC RS100. Muchas gracias.
Thank god I found this video, I have the same UPS but in 1500 doing the click of death sound. I am going to try and replace C40 and C41. I wish I had an ESR meter. I want to keep this unit as long as possible as these UPS are pretty simple inside to diagnose compared to the newer ones. Less features, less things to go wrong.
Good job tracing the problems. Even for just additional parts identification, I gained a bit more info for troubleshooting my APC ES 500 supply. Thanks JwgK
Wow, I have an RS 1500 that outputs 135v when on inverter. Was thinking maybe the caps (40 41) from your video. When bad caps have been found in this model, my first thought is... Bad Caps (!) as with all mobos, monitors and PSUs. Caps = GOAT repair fix. However looking at that nasty square wave, I might just trash it. ....still, it is a puzzle and I like solving puzzles. Problem is I know nothing about the circuitry other than what you explained. It's been on the shelf for some years and I don't remember if the over voltage was only present during backup. If all the time, then perhaps the Boost feature.
I have a RS 800 and a RS 1000, the RS 800 failed a few months ago, the RS 1000 failed today. They are exactly the same symptoms, I will check those capacitors. He had not been able to find reliable information to proceed with a repair. Thank you very much! Excellent work Good video.
@@z1power 273 / 5000 I finally got the C40 and C41 capacitors and replaced them in the RS 1000, the UPS was like new! In the UPS RS800 I replaced the capacitors C57, C59 and C60, it also worked very well! I only had a few common electrolytic capacitors, but they worked wonders. Thank you very much for your video and your work, it helped me a lot. Greetings from Chile
Thanks! I bet this fixes mine. I replaced the batteries, then it started always switching to battery power. Reinstalled powerchute, and the UPS thinks it's getting 156 VAC. Later, it thinks it's 104 VAC coming in. Clearly the input AC monitoring circuit has failed, and your video points me to the likely problem.
Thank you for this video, so yea I have 4 different units that needs to be looked at, all of em says to replace battery but the batteries tested good. one works fine until it charges the battery up, when it gets to fully charge it throws the replace battery light. I hope to find what's wrong with them.
The first time, after completing the board, the output in battery and line mode was correct. On the line mode, when we pressed the off key, the converter and charger exploded again.(Apc model is lynx 2kva)
Great video thanks l have the same APC product faulty one model sc1000 with approximately 160vac out put and increased up to 174v with load if you can help with best regards
Nice video. I have the same unit. After replacing the batteries the unit would keep switching between battery and mains. I adjusted the sensitivity to low, using the built in sensitivity adjustment, however, I am wondering if there is something wrong internally as my utility power is pretty stable and reliable and I should not have needed to make this change. Any suggestions about what I should look into to fix this?
Great! i really needed this video to exist! Its safe to change the capacitors voltage while mantaining the uf ? becouse i see that you didnot replace with exactly the same voltaje.
I have one that was never opened from 2009 and it is doa, I know the batteries are likely no good but it should at least power on , it is an apc rs 800 blk, I plan to open her up and see what there is to see.
I have a 1500 XS with a similar problem. Online light comes on for just a moment, then it switches to backup. A few seconds later, the cycle repeats. Almost as if it cannot detect line voltage ;-). I took out c40 and c41...one registered .5mf and the other 10mf (both rated for 22 mf). I'm guessing the rest of these surface mount caps are trashed (altho rated accuracy may be less important). I'm going to replace all the surface mounts. Thanks for the video!
Update. I replaced C40 and C41. I used two soldering irons (like hot tweezers) so as not to damage the traces pulling the caps. I did not replace the rest of the caps. UPS started right up and is powering equipment.
hi could you help me with the same model? I hear a hiss coming from the main capacitor and moreover if I turn it off the two relays start to trip every 30 sec by themselves.the mainboard does not charge the batteries
Hi. If during repair, all the leds on the panel should light up(load led), what is the problem? This condition exists while there is only coverter and the buss voltage is fixed by using battery. Inverter and charger are removed from the board
Looking for the values of the capacitors so I can buy some, can anyone share that info for the ones being talked about? I got hold of a schematic but the resolution is too low to read any details such as part numbers.
My BR1500i also have same problem, inverter / relay / battery charging all work, just detect AC mains got problem, from management port, it show input have 56V / 3xxV, I will try replace those two capacitor, thnaks.
I have a Backups XS 1500, has a similar problem, it does not detect AC, so the alarm sounds and it runs on Battery. I never hear any clicks from the relays. I pulled it apart and checked the simple stuff, but it's closing in on 20 years old. I appreciate the video, but not sure it's really worth replacing the caps. Everything is a risk . I think I am just replacing the unit, I will be lucky to get 20 years from the new one.
I have a RS 1000 and a RS 800, the RS 800 stopped working, at no time did the relays sound, it just stopped detecting the input voltage correctly. What I did, was replace the capacitors and now it works like new. From what I have read it is a very common fault, it is easy to repair and with reliable results. The z1power video explains the problem and the solution very well, I hope you dare to repair it, there is already a lot of discarded hardware and it is always good to give old hardware a chance that is easy to repair to remain useful.
when relays chatter\buzz , the relay is most likely good . What is driving the solenoid is most likely bad . That doesn't say that the driver transistor is bad , but something is wrong with the driving signal . ( relays can go bad , however the magnetic strenght and opposing spring force may not be a match , anymore ) Without looking at signals in the system , you'll have to pull parts and manually test each one . ( Shotgun troubleshooting , guess and replace and hope the system works ) not the best way to do it . As a last ditch effort , it might work . Those small silver caps are most likely solid tantalum . ( considering age of unit, i would have replaced the whole set ) i noticed all the electrolytic caps looked good , No rounded tops . No leakage . ( that doesn't mean these caps are actually good ) just a level of Confidence that they still sufficiently work . Caps ,...the most dificult parts to make . Caps ,...the most failed components of all . ( if you had gone straight to the caps , the relays could have been left alone ) need a hot air wand\pencil to help remove those caps to help avoid tearing traces . Too sad no one has a schematic and parts locator diagram of a UPS . there is a lot going on in an UPS . If ups were simple , we would all build one .
I just cannibalized the cheap devices as a good source of spare parts, as the output emits a horror bad sine wave, can damage devices! is not used with me. good video well explained .... keep it up
