I thought I would add some tips from a pro here. Its not actually called sealant. After you gelcoat the area after wetsanding. I go clear up to 2000 grit. You want to polish it. You don't need to compound unless you have deep scratches. I recommend using either Meguires machine polish, aquabuff 2000 is really nice or a finesse it. Then come back with a high carnuba wax. I use Collinite boat fleet wax. Goes on super thin and easy.
El problema no es reparar echar pasta el los lugares dañados es que cuando tu termines la reparacion se bea el color paresido es esto ultimo consiste el arte de trabajar el llelco
The wax paper is needed if you use gel coat without wax. Gel coat will stay tacky if it is not sealed off from air. Gel coat with wax seals the gel coat from air but if you need a second coat of gel coat you will need to sand the gel coat before applying second coat.
No, but it eventually will cause de lamination of the layers of fiberglass so you definatly want to keep the bare fiberglass sealed with gel-coat or for emergency repairs take some clear silicone and spread it over the area
No but do think about the transom "back of the boat" that the fiberglass is over a piece of wood on many boats. Get water in that wood and it Will Rot out. This is not only Expensive to repair but is Very DANGEROUS when the transom gets soft. At that point, I've seen one that had a Yamaha 175 Saltwater Series II on it. It had water get into the transom and it got soft. The owner put it in reverse and gave it some power. The engine not only tore loose and nearly wound up flipping into the boat beside them with the prop still spinning but water rushed into the boat. It would have sank had it not still been on the trailer at the boat ramp. Fix damage to your hull especially if it is below the waterline.
