When you spin around, the wheel is locked so there is no back EMF at the motor. Then the current is maximum at I=V/R where V=24, R=resistance of coil. This is probably why the fuse blows so easily. Design should've accounted for this and the controller to limit the current on motor lock (or regen instead of lock with power), doesn't seem to be the case.
I bought one today at local Flea Market $10 wires are cut and no battery charger, l checked batteries have some charged left. I will view again your videos and see if l can rewire, after viewing and reading online manual l believe l can make this work. It is also missing the on off control grip/switch. I will see if l can order a new one or maybe construct something. Thanks for a nice video!! helped me a lot. Happy riding!
I ALWAYS watch your vids. Your vids r super educational. Plus I love your projects. I just bought another Ryobi tool. When I get this bathroom done, I'm going to convert to Kobalt starting with that 1/2 impact gun.
Hi, thank you for your video. My son left his machine out in a really bad snow/rain storm for a couple of days and instead of throwing it away, I wanted to see if I could fix the electrical components to make it work. What would I need to replace (battery, fuse, motor?). Thank you for your video and you and anyone else for your lelp. #gogreen
How do you remove the top plastic cover? I’ve removed the single screw above the two electrical switches and the four screws on the bottom, but it will not come off. I don’t want to break it trying to pop it off.
I figured out that you have to slide the cover straight back after removing the screw. I was trying to pry the cover up and thought it had clips holding it underneath.
Do you still charge it with the original power supply or was that modified as well? Do you have a link to the Kobalt battery pack used? Did you remove Kobalt top cover to for access to positive/negative terminals?
Also where did you get the circuit board for terminal that connect to battery? Sorry so many questions, I really want to do this mod. I've had to change out the dual battery pack twice in less than a year.
It's a Kobalt 24V Li-ion battery so I can only charge it with a Kobalt charger (for my power tools). You can get the battery at any Lowe's. I didn't have to remove the Kobalt battery cover. I just make the terminal connector for it. I have plenty of video for it so you can just search it up and find it easily.
Maybe the original fuse was a "slow-blow" fuse, capable of handling surges? Also, to another's comment on the power - a lithium battery can be drawn down to it's limit while lead acid batteries can only be drawn down so far before becoming damaged; they may appear to have greater power but less of it is actually available (an engineer could explain this better than I have). I am sure you have a video on the connector to the Kobalt battery, but could you explain the three wire connection - apparently the motor needs it (or else direct me to the appropriate video).
I guess there is a reason why the original fuse was rated for 15 amps. The controller might still be faulty, perhaps it originally regulated voltage and current but now only regulates voltage. I suggest looking into this a bit more. You might need to add a current limiter if you can’t fix the controller, assuming a component/module is broken in the controller. Alternatively, if you are not bothered about unregulated current, no need to do any more investigation. How much current is the motor rated for?
I want to start similar project staring with collecting 18650 batteries Could you please suggest where can i get hold bulk collection of laptop batteries what would be a right price for a laptop battery based on number of cells it may contain i mean what would be right price per each 18650 cell , considering lot of work that is involved after that
Ummm... there is a reason for the 15 amp fuse. Likely it is to prevent smoking the motor. Instead of using bigger fuses you should try to determine the reason for the high current draw. Can't wait for your next video on replacing the electric motor!!!
Bought a new controller wired it to a working bike and nothing .All connectors info are only in Chinese! The make is SODIAL. Got 5V at the throttle plug , took a resistance reading on the 3 motor wires and two are 9k ohms and one is 7 K. My old working controller had 3k on all wires. Anybody knows what a good reading would be?
Got one cheap for $50 on fb market I've pulled all the plastic casing off and re spray painted them a nice orange black blue scheme lol and Im gonna put a 1500/1800 watt electric motor kit from. Ebay but my main issue will be getting a 48v/52v battery to fit
@@fixitrod4969 dude built it like 2 years ago went real well strapped a 1800 motor on using a sheet off metal just drilled it on no welding and put go kart wheels on and had a bracket made up for the battery at the back off the seats on the steering wheel axle thing and slapped a 500 48v that charged to 55v it was legit the best thing ever riding that thing haha the looks and abuse I got riding that thing was funny and good 🤣 went about 60kms anyone else that tried riding it would stack it hard course it would be so ward ro hold it straight and not flick our I mastered it unfortunately irs in places now and I've now used the battery to build this cool arse razor pocket mod with 2000w motor and it goes really good I'm actually panning on doing another one with a 3000w motor and 72v battery and gonna get custom disc breaks set up for it did rhe best spray paint job I've ever done with the plastics to the scooter nice hot green and purple colour it's fonnw be sick I might be build the green machine bur the steering rods were to low to the ground so it would just bend and hit everything so I would probably try putting qaud bike tires and bigger steering rods I think but it worked really well I'm surprised no one's tried it
I just wrote a huge reply you don't know why it didn't go through but I'll make it sort.this time it worked extremely well but only I was able to ride it as all my mates and that would stack it course it took a lot to control it and not flip out we oulr be flying going 60 having people yell our abuse at me it was pretty funny
I'm so silly brought a 1800 dc motor for mine to find out it's way to big and heavy but in gonna extend and even try and put a gokart axle or get gokart wheels for it ill have a huge capacity 48 volt battery custom made for it but biggest issue and struggle will be fitting the motor in it hehe gonna be true power
Yes, I do get paid from RU-vid adsense. The requirement is 4,000 hours of overall watch time and have at least 1,000 subscribers. Once you get to that point, youtube will start paying you. It's real small compared to the amount of work you have to put into a video (quality one, that is). Majority of full time RU-vidrs use other revenues such as affiliations, ad promotions built into the videos, sponsors, donations from viewers, product sponsored reviews... I got none of that and not really interested in them anyway. I might change in the future but not right now.
@@vuaeco thx for the info....im asking cos i think im going to start a channel. ...my channel will be about electronics, umm a teardown of batteries....hehe, and i think i will rope in my daughter to test drive my creations..only joking. To be serious, did u ever believe ud hit 30k subs when u first began channel?...what was ur motivation, just to have fun?
@@sorbetingle I'm feeling like I'm being interviewed by a job shop! haha... My main motivation is to be helpful and have fun. A lot of the motivation is also from my son. As per number of subscribers? I don't really pay attention about the numbers. My main focus is to make good quality, helpful, and fun contents. The rest will take care of itself. That's why you never hear me asking people to subscribe in my videos. I believe subscription is like respect, it needs to be earned, not given. If you want to start a channel, I'd say go right ahead. Find something you love and share it with us. There will always be someone who has the same interest and wants to share it with you.
@@vuaeco yes mr eco.....i pleased to say...u have got the job...u start right away😆...but honestly your vids definitely portray exactly what u have been aiming for....thx for the advice, i think about it, if iv got time with regular job too.
You can make it faster, longer lasting & have more torque power by upgrading your Battery. It comes with a two 12 Volt 7 Amp Batteries. 24×7= 168 Watts. Your 24V Kobalt battery is only 4 Amps. 24×4= 96 Watts. 72 Watts less than it originally should have. More Amps will give you a longer lasting charge for longer rides. You can add another 24V 4A Power Tool Battery as long as you connect the Positives (red) together & Negatives (black) together. That will give you 24Volts but now 8Amps. 24×8= 192Watts. Giving you a little more power than Original Lead Batteries & longer lasting ride time, with still lighter Lithium Ion Batteries.
I'm currently trying to Upgrade mine to a 36 Volt 5.2 Amp Lithium Ion Battery. But I'm not sure what safety feature is preventing it from powering motor. Luckily nothing was blown. Still works fine with Original 24V 7A Batteries. Control works, Fuse is Fine, Upgraded Fuse, and Removed Fuse for straight Power which helped most people who keep blowing fuses. But no luck on Upgrading Battery. Idk if it's too many Volts or too many Watts. Volts×Amps= Watts. Which mine would be 187 Watts, and should be 168 which isn't much more. So I'm guessing it's the 50% more Volts at 36V. Might have to Upgrade my Control Board. Any info on what might help lmk. And I will keep you all up to date with my results if I do get a 36V Control or just 24V Li-On Batteries.
