I can't wait to see your build of a solar roof. All your projects over the years have been inspirational. Your family is so lucky to have you on board. Your work is very much appreciated.
Excellent video! I was not expecting such great results on the range test! I have a feeling something like this would be super helpful for the people crazy enough to bike pack very long distances. Almost 200w of assistance is substantial
In a mobile application like that, you'll be lucky if that MC flex panel lasts 2 years. You really should consider a CIGS solar panel (copper indium gallium Selenide). CIGS panels don't have any glass in them like a MC panel. CIGS are warrantied for 12 years replacement and 25 years output.CIGS are highly shade tolerant, highly heat-tolerant, lighter, and virtually indestructible.
Extremely Awesome!!! very impressed with rigidity. Do you consider needing more support? Or Could you get away with smaller aluminum rails? Could you hang cargo under the rails, and still maintain rigidity? It's very cool that you can still use paniers. I would work on tilting system to just gain access to paniers without removing them, and perhaps even act as a rain cover while sitting on back rack facing backwards. It would also be a fantastic high support for a tarp that is open to the sunset. I don't like your "roof" idea. takes too much supports, will rattle, higher sail is more potential problems. I like building a little rain shelter in back of bike.
Yes we want to see how you mount that overhead. And see how you get the wind buffeting you on the trail. Can you get a more efficient bicycle, bigger battery, and make a multi day trip on sunshine?
If you control the variables, you can get different answers. First if your asking how much farther can you go adding roughly 3 amps hours to your system, roughly take 3 amps divided by total system draw. If your asking about battery durability, that depends on the quality of the BMS, and the quality of the cells, and the chemical makeup. Setting the output of the solar to too high puts a lot of trust on the quality of many circuitry, it's better to find a voltage between the charging voltage and the battery's sag current, that's the point where you can avoid any issues through circuitry accidental wear on the cells can even be a cause for shortened lifespan. Another change is run a LiFePo battery. I don't know if it's possible to run two panels in series, and have a trailer with additional batteries and solar panel, but this would allow the electronics to lower the voltage of the two panels and gain additional amperage. Please cover the panels before making connections... There will be storged voltage, low current, high voltage... From what I've heard.
That's an Eco Worthy 10A boost charge controller. It's more like a boost converter than a charge controller though it is more efficient than a regular boost converter.
Nice video! Where did you get that front rack? I have the same bike and I'm thinking of getting one too! Could you please let me know where you bought it, and if possible, share the link to the product? Thanks a lot!
xt60 can take much higher voltage.. 500v capable, 60amp peak, 30 amp nominal, possible derate [heating] at about 125~250v? [0.55 milliohm resistance in the connector]
I really want to put a flexible solar panel on my 4Runners roof, but can’t think of a decent way to route the cable without drilling holes in the roof :(
You don't have to drill holes on the roof. Route it through the back door. Watch this video where I mount a 327W solar panel on my Sienna van: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-v50QEwT1Jbo.html
@@vuaeco I like it! Might give this a go, Im just worried about it breaking or flying off on the highway. Not sure how my insurance company would feel about that lol
Does anyone know why the maximum system voltage is just 120V. Many similar solar panels , but different brands like Renogy or Boughrv have 600 or 1000 volts rating.
Simply no need for convertors inverter and all that nonsense. All you need is high power diode to directly charge the battery. that is all. solar panels panels AUTOMATICALLY regulate the voltage and current due to their high output impedance. if battery tries to draw too much current the panel voltage falls automatically..etc
@@SchoolforHackers The high current diode is to prevent the battery discharging into the solar panels. try a test setup in the garden. the SP connected to the battery you can attach a current meter in series and voltage meter across and see how it varies... than do a test and video it and report your findings. the advantage is less complexity and cost. a SP disconnect button is a good idea.
@@esecallum Excellent proposal, particularly because I want this exactly for my garden and greenhouse. A small solar panel and a Pi 2 or 3, with a battery to get it through the night; it can all run on DC, but has to really maximize efficiency. It’s been years since I made a vid but you’re right, it’s a great topic. ;)
This comment is wrong. The solar cell has no way of knowing what the voltage limit of the battery is. If the panel and battery are voltage matched and the panel puts out less watts than the battery can take, you might be able to get away with this. Even then it will be inefficient since you’re not using mppt to optimally draw from the solar cell.
It's your opinion...... It's his video, and content..... Why do people insist on picking apart someone's work, material. For people( trolls) like you whom are perfect in everything when viewing something, why not try giving positive input towards others first.
You mean this comment? "Good stuff! I had this idea but with the thin flexible (light weight panels) like your idea as a trailer train behind the bike...still just as impractical though no doubt" Because its not deleted.
