I would have bored the hub, made a ring 0.05 mm bigger than the hole in the hub, heat the hole to 120°C, fit the ring in the hole, cool down, remounted the hub on the late, recentered on the spindle and finally bored to shape of the bearing and fit the bearing in the housing. With this method the bearing housing has to be centered perfectly to the rotation axis of the hub. However it is a nice job too, well done mate!
This is incredible. I typically use shim stock or feeler gauges in the 6 to 8 thousandths of an inch to “shore” up a worn out hub that is too loose for bearings. Can make hub last awhile doing that. Of course your skill set and work here is excellent and beyond most mortals.
I know what you mean if the beating is inside a bore use the outside race to press it in, but if the bearing goes on a shaft use the inside race to fit. What you’re saying is true though, it can and will damage the bearing if fitted wrong especially when hitting it.
Wow nice work on reparing this hub!! It is unreal straight and looks very well balanced too! You have some incredible machinery skills sir! Thanks for sharing!! :)
Just smear some JB weld around the bearing. Works great. You might need to heat the bearing with a propane torch to soften the JB weld when removing it. I repaired a hub like this on the video but it cracked a few months later due to the thinner hub. Tapping on the center of the bearing knocks little dents in the race. Shortens the life of the bearing. I've probably changed 10,000 dirt bike wheel bearings. I do want to add, the hub I lathed out was worse than this one on the video. The walls was most likely thinner
Nice video! Do you understand WHY the bearing chewed out the hub? Because if you don't address that issue, it will happen again! Invariably, this is caused by a bent axle. If you think about it, a bent axle will put angular forces on the bearing with every revolution. That will try and tilt the bearing in its seat. The moment the force is big enough - i.e. the bend becomes bad enough - to start moving the bearing, the seat gets brinelled and then chews out. So the first thing to do after the repair you showed, is to roll the axle on a known flat surface and find the bend. You can then either straighten the axle or replace it. Please check the replacement for straightness too! I have found bent ones in the original packing :(
I enjoy watching your videos, hows the repair holding up? I’ve repaired bicycles with thin aluminum shims and they never held up to a beating. The material just too soft. The rear wheel will definitely take a beating. I would have welded it than machined it back to size. You could indicate off of the sprocket flange. Or if you wanted to still do the shim, make it out of high carbon or Chromoly Steel... a nice interference fit that requires heat and freezing and it would last indefinitely.
Hey Paul, it is a pleasure to watch your clip. I never miss your video presentation, not even one ! Good things come to those who work, keeping up buddy !
@@mikegro8502 - unless there is a spacer between the bearing and the swing arm mount that is not shown, there is nothing to secure the bearing from moving in and out in the bore. The brake side has a circlip on it, his repair of the sprocket side does not. Would have been very easy to cut a groove in for a circlip while it was chucked.
@@ScoredPiston It has a spacer. (one on each side) and also there is a seperate seal missing on both sides of the bearing. actually the circlip is useless... most wheel hubs I know dont even have a circlip
Отличная работа! Можно, как вариант, накаткой поднять металл и установить подшипник на анаэробный герметик? А почему не использовали посадку ремонтной втулки в натяг на горячую? Так было бы прочнее.
Bonjour primo on presse le morceau d aluminium plein puis on usine l intérieur de la 'nouvelle porté ,secondo quand on remet un nouveau roulement on ne tape ou il y a les billes mais sur la partie extérieur du roulement.avant de faire le malin sur le net faudrait apprendre les vrais base de la mécanique,
I have similar issue (not the same hub but different) why not put a bigger diameter bearing instead of creating a shim? will it weaken the hub and crack if done so?
Não sai mais barato e rápido comprar um cubo novo? Se fosse um pais do 3º mundo como o meu tudo bem, afinal aqui o Dólar é caro então tudo custa muito.
Wouldn’t it have been easier to use a boring head and bar in the mill? Just curious why you chose to do so in the lathe considering all the setup time and lots of stick out from chuck. great video and I’m no machining expert like you are, I’m just learning from watching videos like yours :)
I wouldn't do this to any motorcycle intended for a public road, but I've seen loose wheel bearings wrapped with a strip.of aluminum ( oh, let's picture a beer can) , then tapped into the hub, the alum.strip takes up the worn hub area, it doesn't " fix" worn parts, but will finish a weekend up in the boonies for a dirt bike. But it will work its way loose again. Just another weekend warrior sleazy field repair -#955
