Man, I can't get enough of these videos on the oil field equipment. The satisfaction from fixing all this old American made machinery to keep it going another 100 years must be immense! Please keep the content coming.
Double chevron gears - how Andre Citroen made his money before manufacturing cars. The double chevron is still the Citroen Logo but is very rounded off nowadays.
Citroen's double helical gears were radiused in the corner between the two helices. Prior to this there had to be a gap to clear the cutting tool. Sunderland and Sykes were two British companies that patented double helical gear manufacturing methods with a sharp corner. Sykes' patent was use by Farrell in the US. Sykes was 1920 in the UK (1750029X) and 1930 in the US (US1750029A). Note that the latter took about 7 years to be accepted! I worked for Sykes in the late 1960s through to the mid 1970s. I think that this gear stems from one of these patents.
Don’t get me wrong though I sure do like watching you work reminds me of the good old days when you just got in and got the job done I like seeing the sunset while you’re still working remind me how it used to be
Something I have noticed over the years in repair work When the person doing the repair is paid by the hour, they do almost everything with hand tools. When the person doing the repair is paid by the job, they have the biggest most hammer down power tools known to man. I'm lazy, so I charge by the job so I can get things done quicker. 😁
Also for any of you that don't know how these pumps work. When the pump is up in the air it is sucking oil into the pipe. The ball that floats will drop down when the pump is at the neutral point. Then when the pump goes down it will push the oil to the surface.
Ive watched several of your videos and its really interesting to know how these work and what it takes to maintain them, plus your explainations are excellent! Nice job my friend, work safe
We had an old ball mill made in the 20's for a gold mine I worked at years ago. The bearings went out and the gears were worn bad. So they found an old guy out of Canada that had experience working on them. We removed the large pinion out, took it to the shop and ground all the sharp edges off reinstalled with new bearings, set the back last, wear pattern and preload it ran untill they shut it down in the early 90's.
Another reason I remember that very well is because when they brought the shaft to the shop and it was quiting time but mill maintenance was staying over working ot to get it fixed. They torched one of the double tapered roller bearings off and a guy was hitting it with a sledge hammer to finish breaking it free of the shaft. I was standing 2 bays away in a large shop with my lunch box in hand about to walk out to go home. When he swung the hammer one of the rollers from the bearing shot out like a bullet! I seen it coming about the time it hit me in the lip! So I went home with a fat lip and a good lesson that anything can happen when doing that kind of work. Ha!
That's what i was thinking. Machining that shaft would have been easier to use a grinder attachment instead of cutting with a tool. Every man has got his way and hey, this guy owns an oil well and I'm a pauper. Hats off to doing his own work - that's how I would do it.
I never spiral weld rebuilds, always straight runs across the diameter at 12 o'clock, 6 o'clock, 3 o'clock, 9 o'clock then inbetween but always opposite, spiral puts to much heat into the shaft and can cause it to go hard 👍
I set a mig in a tool post and built up a shaft from a spun bearing, then mounted an angle grinder to the tool post and ground it to size very tiny cuts by the end but it gets over tbe hardness issue
Such a great channel! With your skillset, you will never go hungry. Not many people out there that have oil field knowledge, mechanical knowledge, can weld, can use a lathe, etc.
Awesome work! I really enjoy watching your oil field videos. I am up here in the Illinois Basin (Southeast Illinois and SW Indiana) and see a lot of these kind of pumpjacks. Some of ours are powered still by FM ZC208's, using gas from the field to operate. A lot are going to electric motors, however. Love those old ZC engines!! I'd love to see you work on a ZC 118, 208, or 346. Keep the oil field videos coming, their great!!
Interestingly I just picked up a 118 and a 208 that one of will be temporally put on a well to try out. When I get my rv done the oilfield is going to be the main focus of this channel.
@@TheZachLife Sounds great, Zach. I can't wait to see you put one of those on a well, that will be so neat! Love your work on the RV also, you have a great mechanical talent. i wish I had your knowledge and experience. Keep those videos coming, I so enjoy them.
Good example of a "Herring bone" gear. It has the strength of teeth contact and quieter operation of a helical gear, but the two opposing helical's, cancel out any thrust that a helical usually has. If you have a really hard metal, like stainless that is hard to cut on a lathe, get a grinder attachment.
Working in a power. House. We had all sorts of pumps and machinery. There was an old machinist who would spray metal on a worn bearing surface right in the lathe, of course he had a oxy/ acetylene torch to spray the metal on. I wonder if that would work for you, once it was set up all you need is ventilation:)
@@TheZachLife I asked my (damn good at it and wealthy) machine shop owner bro why they weld shafts instead of metal spray and he considered weld more reliable and a lot more comfortable to do. Their bread and butter is machine repair for paper mills so lots of shafting to fix/replace. Metal spray outfits often go cheap but I've never needed mine since welding works a treat and is easier to touch up.
Hi from sterling mi. Lots of wells up here in my area. I have no knowledge of what the guys I see driving around with buckets of big pipe wrenches do here. Thanks for the insight. Best wished
I once worked in factory and had to scrap hundreds of full size truck front hubs that had had centre holes drilled wrong place and welded up. Hub steel reacted with the rod and went glass hard. Had to scrap the lot. £1,000s down the drain.
@@xmachine7003 Company said not as it was UK truck with 40 tons load limit. Other company had centre drilled the hubs in a fixture without checking for alignmnet and metal allowance. I told boss that the spindle wasn't square with back plate but he claimed not to see it. I think we could have made a simple fixture to hold the spindle upright on milling m/c and then drilled out a new hole perhaps 75 though away but it wasn't done and they were all scrapped. Bosses aren't interested in initative.
Thanks for doing these videos. Probably about 8 years ago I traveled a lot for employer and found my self quite often starting up drives on the pipelines in Texas. Drove past a lot of this kind of stuff. Always wondered how it all worked together. Cool..
Those that say pull the lid on the gearbox probably don't realize how much grunt work is involved in doing so. Also a fair chance disturbing the decades old seals on the low speed shaft would get them started leaking and those aren't easy to replace. Best to leave the lid on a can of worms.
That was my thought if you couldn't thoroughly flush the gear box, drain the oil then add a stack of magnets to the drain plug. I'm guessing you added the magnets while you had the shaft out so you could just drop them in? Simple solution. Every car I've owned I added a magnetic drain plug if it didn't already have be one. Plus it allows you some heads up if things are starting to go south
My dads shop was the lufkin repair shop for our area in Natchez Mississippi as well as plugging. He’s still in the business over in Magee Mississippi. He buys and sells equipment and consults.
I have to wonder if you aren't work hardening the surface as you're cutting. Sometimes a deeper cut will get you past the work hardened outer material.
Well should of use the walking beam as a sky hook. Use a come along. Split the top half of case off and pulled the shaft up and out. Press off bearings and seals. Press on new, set shaft back in. Put back on lid. And back in business. With brake assemble also in tack!
The box has 16 2" bolts ( like 3-1/2 or so head) I wasn't interested in trying to remove those huge nuts. Also the crank arms would have to been partly pressed off to get the main bearing cap off as the cap bolts to the upper and lower half and the bolts are almost against the crank arms.
When cutting weld use a HS cutting bit? The inserts break every time they hit a lip were ya welded .Then finish with carbide if ya want .I was a 3rd year aprentist. Before I went to work for the government. Lol still have a small lathe in my garage
maibe use a surface grinder or toolpost grinder next time , would take more time but saves you a bunch in inserts allso to prevent the seal from burning up during the initial startup and kinda grind intoo shape a little smoother and not trowing the oil out before its settled put a dollop of bearing grease in between the seal and the bearing
I was with a freind who was showing me a new well being drilled it was a facinating process. Another well on the same property was currently pumping oil. The pump Jack was being powered by a Toyota Diesel engine. The fuel line appeared to be coming from the oil from the well. I never got to ask the company if that was the case. Does anyone know if that would work? Or do you think it was being run on actual diesel fuel? The well was a dry hole so it wasn’t a very happy ending. They drilled 1760’ into the Knox oil formation some oil was coming out with the drilling debris and then it was drilling into clean limestone. I really wish I saw it become a productive well. It was exciting though really enjoyed the atmosphere!!!
haha I recognize those gear boxes we have 2 running large bucket elevators in a century old grain elevator. Would have been easier to split the casing. it's a shame the original bearings failed was likely hyhat cartridge bearings as long as they have oil they last practically forever. They are hard I seals tho the gear its self controls the axial position within the gearbox tend to float around a little which tears out seals.
I rebuild pump Jack gears boxes quit regularly. Next time just unbolt and pull your intermediate caps letting the intermediate drop and the high speed shaft will come right out . A lot of your herringbone gearboxes work that way . Definitely all Nationals and late model Lufkins .
with that really hard shit on the lathe, sometimes it works best spinning it WAY too fast like, chip coming off bright red and sparking you do burn through inserts just the same, but it leaves a much better surface finish and since you're running a manual lathe you can resharpen the inserts on the bench grinder a few times before they get too small
This is probably a mom and pop operation. Step on any big name oil lease and youll choke on rules and regulations. Makes it completely unenjoyable to get anything done.
I wonder why they just didn't design it so the shaft and gear could slide out the side in the first place? By the way, I really like what I've seen of your videos. Thanks for making them. EDIT: Reading through the comments I can't understand why everyone was so gung ho to take the top of that case off.. I didn't see what you cut off the end of the shaft, but I can't imagine that it would have made it as easy to work in the lathe, seems like you did the right thing to me. Then all the complaining about all the bits of metal that fell in the case..they'll likely just sit. That case isn't gonna be bouncing around like an oil pan on a car, and anything that might churn up in the slow movement of the oil is gonna be tiny. Everything else is just gonna find somewhere comfortable in the case to retire for the next 100 years..
you obviously have never worked on or around anything like this. That low speed gear has about a 1/4 inch clearance between the bottom of the case and the gear. That metal that is suspended in the 80/90 weight gear oil (that is like tar in the winter) the oil is carried around by the gear and runs down channels on the side of the case and runs into the bearings to lubricate them. Even fine metal dust will act like sand paper and eventually prematurely wear out the bearings. This repair is what is known as hack repair job. I run an oil and gas company, we do all of these repairs on these types of units and I would fire him if this is what he did to one of our jacks. You NEVER should alter the machine from manufacturer specs let alone grind the shoulder for the outer race of the bearing.
I was thinking the same thing, I could never repair something like this, not that I couldn’t repair it I wouldn’t do it like that. I deal with farmers all the time in my business of hydraulic hose and trust me this is the mindset.
Its goes through a water/oil separator and then to storage tanks. After that its picked up by truck and purchased from us by a "purchaser" to be pumped down a pipe line and sold to refineries or other oil using companies.
I just recently found your channel and have gone back to these older videos to catch up on your story. Very interesting stuff. Seems like you have to be a Jack of all trades to do this work. Is this West Texas?
The pump has 2 check valves that are made up of a stainless steel ball and a seat that the ball seals against. The ball and seat are in a cage that looks like a small round bird cage that allows the ball to move and fluid to go by but no fall out. This well for whatever reason will "trash up" (industrial slang) where a piece a trash, rust, sand, or whatever will get in the cage between the ball and seat and hold the ball open so that the pump quits pumping. Whats actually hitting is the part of the pump that is attached to the rods called the plunger or the traveling valve (one of the valve described earlier) is going down and striking the standing valve (the other one). This hammering action will knock out any trash that is stuck in one of the ball and seats.
What sort of oil output do you see from a well pump like that?? Is the profit margin high enough to overcome the running cost and necessary repairs/maintenance? Just moved to TX and I see a lot of wells and pumps like that one. Great job on getting it DONE!
@@TheZachLife thats true but you can first get the big uneven stuff first and then use the diamands ones to a finish cut ,i am cnc millingmachine operator
This might be a stupid question but where are all the metal filings at that were in and around the bearing holders? Didn't a lot of them fall into the bottom of the case? And how do those bearings get lubricated?
Yes this is a very ridged machine. With a 1.25 boring bar you can have 10 inch overhang and have very little deflection at a 60 tho cut or so. I believe this was a 3/4 shank tool so you could get away with 4-5 inches if needed.
Could you tell me what is the manufacturer of the pump jack ??? The well must be deep as the shaft with a herringbone gear is really heavy duty for sure. How deep is the well Zach ??? Peace
Its an American 160. The well is 1590 feet. This sand is very wet and make a lot of water requiring a big pump and big unit. The gear box and whole unit is very overbuilt which is great but makes a lot of the new stuff look like toys.
You are using the wrong inserts. Use 4035 grade 432 for roughing and 4036 grade 431 for final finishing work. 432 has a bigger nose radius and will take the punishment of roughing interrupted cuts.
The toolholder was only sticking out about 2 from the tool post. The tool post was at an angle to give a sharper protruding edge of the insert. This was about as short as I could run it because the tool post was about to touch the the work piece because the tool post angle.
