Thank you for the great video. I believe that I can use the same procedure for the 1025R JD. Or at least it should be the same but with different parts. Well done.ty.
Be very careful removing the hydraulic lines. I snapped off one of the fittings on mine. Now I’m trying to figure out how to get that out, which is why I watched your video. I’m not even sure you’d need to remove them the way you did it still attached to the loader.
I had a stick snap off of my fittings and fortunately was able to get it repaired without replacing the whole cylinder. I wasn’t sure how much I’d have to fight with the extra pressure if I didn’t take the lines off so figured it’d be easier.
Good video. I watched 4 before yours. None of them knew what they were doing. Why make a video if you don’t know how to do the job? Thanks. Very helpful
I do not unfortunately(well fortunately I didn’t have to do it). The process should be the same. If you find the seal kit number from JD buy the seal kits online and you’ll save $20 or so not buying direct from Deere.
@@MikeMarks-f3s I do not unfortunately. I ended up selling the tractor. Are the cylinders the same diameter? If they are it may be the same part numbers
Great video. Any suggestions on what to do if you can’t drive the cap back inside after the snap ring is removed. Both of mine go in about 3/16” and will not go further.
Got it done with 3lb hammer. Now on the 2nd cylinder there seems to be a bunch of air trapped in the cylinder not allowing the rod to come out. Feels like it’s pulling into big spring..
@@jonesy4588 does it have indentations for a spanner wrench to turn it off? Maybe it was a split year type thing where some years had one style cylinders and then they switched
@@southernyankeeinnovations Did you happen to write down the number of the inner seal kit? My dealer id telling me they are not available. Mine is also a 4300 with a 430 loader.
