Great job!!! Your work never ceases to amaze me! In The U.S.A., many technicians would have thrown the unit out, or refused to work on it, no matter how badly the customer wanted to keep the unit. You are a Giant when it comes to repairing refrigerators and freezers! You really tackle some Tough jobs! Keep up the good work! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and experience with us.
Artisanship! Sad to say in the "throw away U.S.A." this would never happen commercially. I used to live in Costa Rica 🇨🇷 six months / year post Katrina for a dozen years and was continually amazed at repairs on anything from shoes to appliances was able to be done with limited resources but clever craftsmen. Curious to know how you established the correct charge of refrigerant. Kudos sir!
When I start the charge I let it settle at about 10psi. When the fridge reaches running temperature the pressure is obviously lower, then we can either add a little bit more or blow some off to get the correct charge.
A Brilliant Vidclip, Really Clever approach ..... I do have a Question .... Why didn't you Space the Cold-Plate away from the Back-Wall by about 5 or 10 mm ????? This would have actually given you 2X the available surface area for absorbing the 'Heat' from the Fridge Compartment, also would not trap water/ice between the 2 surfaces. Yes I see that the actuall 'Drip Trough' is quite shallow, so there is not much 'space' to set it forward ..... Mooi Bly.... Groete uit NZ
The compressor cycles on a thermostat which measures temperature in the fridge part cold plate. If you make the fridge too efficient, then the compressor will cycle before the freezer is cold enough, so, it is a good thing that the plate is right against the back wall.
@@JDNelRefrigeration Good point .... Very well explained . I didn't realise that there thermo' was actually securely fitted to the 'Plate' and would 'shut down Before reaching Freezing ..... I have always been told there should always be a minimum 'Differential' of a 6 - 8'C between the 'Ambient' and the 'Absorber' for best efficiency, hence my comment about Only 1 side being 'active' .... Mooi bly, Alles wat mooi en goed is vir Jou en al die Familie ..... Cheers uit NZ .... email gestuur .... !!!!!
On all 134a and R12 systems I use the same capillary. In South Africa it is sold as domestic fridge capillary. The length is not that critical, somewhere between 2 & 2.5 meters is normally sufficient.
We get little joint pieces which has an aluminum and copper joint done in a factory. So the aluminum we weld onto the aluminum and the copper we weld onto the copper.
When the motor switches off on the thermostat, it stays off for a long enough period for all the ice to melt before the motor starts up again. We refer to that as cycle defrost.
For any system, need to identify what is it's correct operating pressure and then if no test specs are listed for that portion of a system, make an assumption of at least 125% over normal operating pressure. Knowledge of which refrigerant is being used and it's corresponding pressure / temperature chart are imperative.
There was a French evaporator manufacturer Rubanox. Their cold plates could handle in excess of 350psi, but most modern mass produced cold plates distorts at 100psi
@@JDNelRefrigeration Got it! Same system like most chest freezers have? I wonder; is an internal condensor less effective? There is less cooling surface en the tubes are mounted in the foam. What is your opinion Johannes?
@@vanheemskerk1 The internal condenser can be used to generate heat in the fridge cabinet underneath where the door seals seal which prevents condensation from forming, which is a good point for internal condensers. An external condenser is more efficient if it is kept clean.
