Nice, I like you went with the extra piece of metal underneath like the factory instead of one thick piece. Your attention to detail is great. Looking forward to the next one.
very 2 laye nice repair. I did not replace the the inner layer in my subframe repair, actually i did not recognize it had two layers. thanks for sharing.
No worries a single layer welded in solid is sufficient. The repair pieces you buy are single layer. I just like the look of the two layers and it’s a fairly simple repair.
It’s a super common repair most of these old birds rusted here, and several ways it can be done. I like the look of it’s never been touched and original when done.
Another job nicely done! I've noticed on mine, the sub-frame is rusted bad where the core supports mount. Going to be fun making those holes when I replace that metal.
the front holes rusting out is a bit more rare for me, I have only seen that once in all the cars have repaired, crazy how these cars all rust in different ways.
Unfortunately when I repaired mine, I bought the plates and welded them on top of the frame rail. Luckily it’s disassembled and I can redo it the correct way.
@@BearGrils55 those panels work ok plus they can also be cut down to fit like what I did too. The most important part is that location of the smaller 5/8 inch holes at the firewall mounts. They need to be as close as possible to the original location if not dead on. The bigger holes you have some fudge room as for location error. Good luck and keep it fun.
Great video. I got really lucky with my subframe. Other than lots of surface rust and road grime mixed with oil to clean off, I didnt have much fixing to do on mine. Great tips for my next bird I find. keep up the great work.
The white paint may have been all he had handy. I hate rust and have been guilty of painting over rust to not have to look at it. I had a few cans of blue and hid the rusty drivetrain on my KW. Some say it looks good and others thought I was crazy. Looks better to me than rust.
I agree rust is bad and don’t want to see it. plus your car do whatever you want make it yours, I will say whatever kind of white paint it was it is super durable and hard to strip. wish I knew what brand it was
@@VinylVillageGarage may be latex house paint..lol a torch will bubble it right up if it is. Had a friend that used it on trailers cause it was cheap .
@@VinylVillageGarage no sweat. The carbides from Ideal and Greenlee are less prone to dig, especially with the centering bit. If they lose a tooth they’ll still twist you up tho lol. Love the channel.
I am going to be honest with you this was the first time I used a hole saw for this procedure sad part it’s the second one I bought lost the first one🤦♂️. I normally use my plasma cutter but I wanted to prove it can be done with what we consider basic available tools non need to spend crazy money on your tools for a build. Appreciate the love for the channel too makes it worth while to keep On keepin on.
Enjoy watching your channel and it has giving us lots of knowledge to help restore our 68 firebird convertible. If it's not a problem I would like some templates for my frame. All four of mine need repaired. Thomas Shaw 2152 Hackberry ave Shenandoah ia 51601 Thanks for all the great information 👍
Have seen a lot of subframes do that separate like that. the frame will start to bend right where the mount goes when they go bad also. Guess because the cushioning in the mount is gone just beats the frame.
@@VinylVillageGarage Have you ever went thru the frame section to straighten a twisted or sagging frame? That would be an interesting video to see a demonstration how to correct a frame and general issues these have.
Hey Jon I could definitely use a set of those templates if its not too much trouble. when I had my subframe off the car 25 years ago i had a friend make me a set of large plate washers to sandwich around my rotted out frame holes lol. hey I was a teenager and just wanted to get it back on the road 😛👍. this will be one of my first projects when I take my car apart. 4162 W 226TH ST Fairview Park, OH 44126
Doing a 67 hardtop and just dropped the suffrage. Rear holes not to bad but fronts need some tlc. If it would be possible to get your templates that would be great. Thanks, Dennis
yes an address would be helpful. I need to find the templates. I changed jobs since then and moved toolboxes. at the moment I can’t recall where I put them
@@DennisStrahan I don’t see it in my email box. But I have had a lot of issues with it sending and receiving email. I did find my templates and also scanned them so i can email them just the same
Hey Jon, the bird is coming along! Im interested in the templates you made. I have the exact same situation on my 67. Thanks for the help, it will make it easier! Jayson Durecka 11754 Airport Rd Waynesboro PA, 17268. Thanks again!
More then happy to help you save another bird. I will send you a copy as soon as I return home. Oddly enough heading to PA after work today to visit family and friends and returning Monday.
Awesome! Thank you for the help and dedication to these cars and your viewers, your videos and info provide guidance to help understand some of the things that stump us car guys from time to time and thats invaluable. Thanks again!
Hey Jon. Great video. I know this is a bit old so hopefully you are still getting messages for this one. My rear holes on the subframe both need repair. How do you insure that the new holes are exactly lined up or drilled in the exact spot/measurement and not off by a little bit? I could use the templates if you still have them and it's not too much trouble. Thanks for any thoughts here.
I still have copies I can mail to you. I have it scanned as well that it can be emailed too. The holes are roughly centered side to side of the rail. Front to back and f you line up the template with the angled edge then drill your hole it hasn’t failed me yet. Cool part is you have like a 1/4” of tolerance on these rear holes. If it’s not perfectly located n the original spot it’s ok. To me the only holes that must be precise is the small 1/2” holes at the firewall mounts. Then they only need to be precise if you use them as alignment holes for subframe installation
My son and I are going to have to do the same repair on our project. I could use the template for the rear holes. If it’s not too much trouble could I get a set. I’m in Indy M-F if it’s easier for me to pick them up?
That’s cool a family project is an excellent way to make memories. I work in Avon I have a copy of that template here with me. How close to Avon are you.
@@VinylVillageGarage I work in Plainfield. I go to lunch at 11am. I can run over to Avon to pick them up. Thanks for all the informative videos. They have already been a big help.
I have a 1967 Firebird I am restoring from frame up, and I have the issue with the rusted out mount holes. I would like to have a copy of the templates you have if possible.
What size metal is the subframe? Not sure my 120V mig welder is powerful enough for this weld? Manual claims it can weld up to 1/4, thinking 3/16 is more accurate.
Frame material varies 1/8-3/16” 120v is a bit weak for frame work in my opinion. I am sure people will say different but it’s the frame so it need to be solid to me. I tried 25 years ago to weld a truck frame with a 120v and it did not hold. I know a lot has changed since then but I am Still not a fan of the idea
@@dpin6072 I am interested in this answer, I have a Eastwood 175 and absolutely love it, but it’s like 15-20 years old and when it dies I see myself replacing it with Eastwood mig 180 unless someone has had a bad experience with one.
Is there anyway you could email me a set of these diagrams? I am working on a full resto on my 68... my mounting holes arent as bad as yours however they are larger than 1 1/2 inch. They all measure out to 1 3/4
I'm India thinking after millions of burnouts the torque an corrosives passenger side should wear out or yourdoin something wrong in your burnouts over the life time of the f body signed break down an walk you scream at guy in other lane as you hang a fender on em thru the light s on a double break out.
