Repairing my favourite Router - AEG MF 1400 KE / Ridgid R2930 - Teardown and Bearing Replacement 

I've got an old Bosch with the same illness. Your excellent video reminds me that I should get around to fixing that :)

> which basically means I lost some on the floor That was funny.

Thanks a lot, I had the exact same issue with my AEG and managed to repair it by following your instructions.

The O-ring is possibly an undulation band. This acts as a dampener and avoids harmonic vibration.

I have one of those. Now I know how to repair it when needed. I thank you for the tip on installing screws into plastic and orienting the brushes. Also your humor!

That O-ring on the spindle collar is there to provide some friction between the spindle and the collar, it stops the slop between the collar and spindle until you tighten down on the collar and clamps around the tool. It just 'feels' better that way so bonus points to the designers for leaving that in there. :-D

Hi, thanks for an interesting video. I had a problem where my router did not start and your mention of the switch that was faulty in your video made me check my switch, and of course the switch was not working as it should. However, I blasted it with some compressed air and out came some wood dust and some very small wood fragments, -that sorted it, now the switch works again.

ideas for the switch: try the wrist-part of a rubber glove. maybe a section of an inner tube from a bicycle or moped tire will stretch over it.

Da wirst Du jetzt wohl der Geburtshelfer eines neuen Sterns 🌟 am Oberfräsenhimmel werden. 👍 Wieder ein tolles Video. .... lost some on the floor 😂

Hi Cosmas, thank you for the funny and educational video! I think the o-ring is a cheap way of preventing the collet housing from vibrating loose. The thread of the collet itself is coarser than the housing (at approximately the same diameter), so it is more likely that the collet will loosen up by vibrations first. I recon the designers wanted some redundany and decided an o-ring was a cost effective way to add one extra “locking” mechanism. About those different screwheads: I have designed products for mass production myself, and we always used different screw heads if the tightening torque was different for each screw. In production they used a different pneumatic tool for each type of screw. Every single tool was preset at a specific torque. By using different screw heads we made sure that production used the right torque for the right screw.

This video will be very handy when I come to needing to do my AEG router! Your router table looks nice and sturdy. Thanks for the vid. Cheers, David

Had the same router from 2007 to 2019. Somewhere in 2013-2014 had to replace bearings. I went with the same "not rated" bearings, and first hour or so it was hot as hell, but then it became cooler and worked fine 5 years till I sold it to the new owner. Right now I moved to the US and bought "almost the same" router from Harbor Freight - Hercules 2hp. Hopefully it will serve me a long time :) BTW, bearings on that new router got hot first few hours and now not so much, so I thin it's the same "not rated" bearings (read - cheaper they could find) :) PS: Didn't went with Rigid because quality of this router went down 10 years ago and they are just overpriced junk right now.

Yesssss! New Cosmas video!!

Great job on the router repair Cosmas Bauer! Thank you for sharing the video with us!💖👌👍😎JP

Glad I'm not the only one who has to take things apart multiple times.

great vid Cosmas especially liked the tip for the plastic screw threads

Nice job, thanks for sharing. Regarding the switch, I had the same problem with my Bosch GMF1400. I wrapped some clear plastic (basicly a plastic bag) around the router body, and secured it with a few rounds of electrical tape. It sure won’t win any design prices, but it works! 🙂

A 1400w universal motor has loads of torque! No wonder it mills so smoothly :)

Beech mmm I doubt that that was beech, but great video, I have that router too for the same reason and now I know what to do if the bearing fails, thanks for the instruction

Thanks for posting. My Milwaukee is about to need similar repair.

Na, so schick heute mit Hemd? Und sang'se'mal Herr Bauer, wo hamm'se'denn den Haarschnitt her? 🤔 Schon schnell beim Haarmetzger gewesen?! Danke auch für die Info zu den Lagertypen - wollte die gleiche Maschine kaufen, dein Video hat mich in der Entscheidung bestärkt. Jetzt kann ich gleich Ersatzlager mit besorgen ...

Mega gut! Freu mich schon drauf, in ein paar Tagen das deutsche Video dazu anzusehen... Fankid 😅

Thanks! I finding there how to change bearings..

It could be that the o-ring is used to give the bearing some pre-load to prevent the shaft from clattering up-and-down when the bearing starts to wear a little.

Nice tip with the screws in plastic

AEG = Ameisenbären Exportgesellschaft I think the O ring is for dust protection, even though there is a protected bearing. Maybe a rotary shaft seal (RWDR) would work even better. Those plasic cages aren't the best solution at high rpm. The plasic loses more stiffness due to the increasing tempature than a sheet metall would do. But the benefit of plastic can be it's self-lubrication.

Отлично. Всех благ.

Any chance you can do a video on how you fixed that to your table?

Hi. Well done video. Thanks for that. Have you had any issues when the router is mounted in the table with the fixed base? They say you have to release the clamp lock to adjust the height and when you release the clamp lock the router “falls” down about 1 mm with makes it difficult to adjust the height precisely.

A good job in the end but what a ball-ache!

Hollow out a gummibear as protection for the switch.

Now the warranty is void 🤦‍♀️

My AEG MF 1400 KE has a restart protection. The router is mounted in a router table (Jessem lift and dust extraction box). Any idea’s how to circumvent the restart protection so I can use an external start stop switch? Thanks so much!

That router looks like the Ridgid R2900 that I have with just a few minor differences. The Ridgid has a slide switch instead of a rocker, and the spindle lock is just a metal pin (that protrudes from the housing making it a pain to change bases or install in the lift) Does that one have a magnesium body too?

That router looks a lot like the Ridgid router sold in USA. Dip or spray the switch with liquid vinyl or rubber.

There is also the Bosch GMF 1600, which also is cylindrical. It is friggin expensive, tho.

Its not a rotor its an armature. Rotor is in induction motor.

Bravo! echt super dass du dir die zeit genommen hast um ein gutes werkzeug wieder herzurichten. ich hab die selbe und sie ist auch gerade zerlegt. hab sie leider fallen lassen und der schalter ist kaputt. koenntest du mir bitte sagen wo du den passenden schalter gekauft hast? als ofiziellen ersatzteil finde ich nur die elektronik als gesamtpaket, und schalter in dem format bis jetzt nur mit 6A. das muesste zwar ausreichen, aber auf dem originalen steht 15A 125-250V AC. ich haette ein viel besseres gefuehl dabei einen zu verwenden, von dem wir wissen dass er bei dir funktioniert hat...

The robber its for protecting the Bering the dust not inside

I guess your question about that o-ring was ironical because it did not do a very good job, sealing the bearing from environmental influences like dust :D

If all works, i say: Must have done something wrong.