Hi friend. Could I please ask you a question? Do you have an image or something that shows how you mount the two springs at the shutter curtain? Your finger covers it up, I cannot see it in the video. I am a bit worried I overstress my springs if I do it incorrectly. Thank you
The clock battery location in a D750 is ridiculous. It should be accessed easily, without pulling the camera apart. My D750 clock battery has failed. I might take it in and let Nikon Australia replace it. Thanks for your video.
Hi, i have a "new" d750.. so after use it a little i so that has backfocus , so to get to the 0 I thin I need like -25 , i cant af fine jut till -20. Solution?
@@techxian It is really hard to find the japanese ones. They say they are better in the long term. With the wire already installed I found only 3V and I think it is not japanese. I was afraid to put a 3V battery in the D750. But if it is working all right in that one in the video, so it will work here too^-^. Thank you!!
Finally got the D750 working, but I ended up changing the mirror box. So the screws relation and marks change too, you know. I fell like the sensor is not right yet. What aperture do you use on the lens to verify the sensor alignment? f1.8 or less (like f11 or f22? I'm using a Nikkor 50mm 1.8D on the test. Thank you!!
if you change the mirror box assembly it affect the aligment ot the image SENSOR...you will notice it when you taking a picture at 1.4 or 1.8 aperture opening..the subject you focus wil be back focus..
@@Denoan666you need to adjust the three hex screw of the image sensor it is very difficult to align it this why i use a marking when removing the sensor...so i dont get any problem when i assembling it.. i suggest you use the old box that you make a mark in there and less hassle
@@techxian I confirmed the back focus when shooting in the viewfinder. And front focus when shooting in liveview. 45 degrees angle in the tests. What I'm doing is finding the exact moment the screw enters the hole and marking. So I do five turns with each one of those 3 screws in the exact mark of aech one. My luck is this "new" mirrorbox is not messed ((the mirror screws are in the exact same place they left in the industry I think). So I think I need to adjust the screw coser to the area that it should be in focus and it is not. The front focus is cured . Turning the lower screw clockwise cured the front focus left by those first five turns with the sensor screws. The older mirror box is quite a mess with the mirror screws so I will be fighting in two fronts with it (sensor and mirro box). With this new I think I have a chance by pressing the screws closer to the out of focus areas (within reason, of course). I would share the images here if were possible. Those initial five turns and the adjust that come after that. Thank you!!!! I think we are building a service manual of this camera right here in your page^-^.
Good morning!! I would like to ask a question, yesterday I opened my d750 camera to change a button and I felt that I had an electric shock. now when I turn on the camera it keeps showing this error message every time I click with the F above 2.8. Could you help me, please.
Would you please tell me how much Volts and current you put in to turn a D750 on without batteries?? I got one here that ust don't want to turn on. Than you!!!
@@techxian I think I found the problem here. The flat cable that goes from the left side tho the fpc on the prism unit is damaged. I don't know if there is something related to the problem. Just with another one I'll see.
When the camera stays dissassembled for some period, is there a risk to not comming back to life? Because my D750 was in pieces for 5 months more or less and when I put it back togheter she doesn't not turn the light on (the light that turns on when you put the battery inside) but in the top screen the "not card" icon appears, but the menu on the backscreen I can't access because it is dark. I changed the backup battery into a CR 2032 3V and now she is totally dark, not even the icon on the top screen. I got two PCB's and only tested one with the CR2032 attached (I know both work, but didn't want to risk both of them just yet). Just telling you the details because it would be easier for you to help me in your experience. What could it be?
even a year of disassemble the camera if would not affect the camera function...the date and clock only will affected...maybe there a problem with the card slot or some connection are loosing...i also eccounter the flexcable of the monitor has been open connection...
@@techxian Well, mine is not out of the woods and not even close. But I have hope to achieve something here. I noticed you soldered the battery on the other side. Why not where the older one was? Sounds like a dumb question of me but I have to ask^-^. Sorry to keep bothering you!!
@@Denoan666 i need to position the battery because it is not fit anymore to the area of the original back up battery..the one that i use is the replacement battery that bigger than original and last long
@@techxian I put it in the same position than you^-^. But I used the same + and - spots. With the multimeter, in the older battery I was getting 0,575 Volts. That's why I though it needed to be replaced., but ended up worse. Did you remember how much you were getting in the older battery? It is allright if you don't. Thank you so much!!!!
just make a mark to every corner of the space of the images sensor before you unscrew the sensor to avoid disalignment and if is service by otherr technician you will align it manually.. when i align it i power on then i press the liveview mode of the camera and point to wall with cross hatch lines then i adjust it untill it focus all the line
