Products used in this video: (These are affiliate links, I get a commission from your purchase because I referred you, doesn't cost you a penny more, and helps me keep doing these videos) ➡Sanding blocks: amzn.to/2VQyOe6 (If you want to hand sand) ➡120 grit: amzn.to/3mdn2W7 ➡320 grit: amzn.to/3yIXROh ➡DA Sander: amzn.to/2Xdf2tt ➡80 grit for DA: amzn.to/3yWdHpb ➡180 grit for DA: amzn.to/2VImywh ➡320 grit for DA: amzn.to/3ADa1ZB ➡Blowgun: amzn.to/3jQqYJm ➡Shop rags: amzn.to/3xD9THO ➡Wax/grease remover: amzn.to/3xIQftY (Acetone at your local hardware store may be cheaper) ➡Cleansheets: amzn.to/3jPrx6c ➡Razorblades: amzn.to/37BBMFF ➡Spreaders: amzn.to/3jOG4PI ➡Bondo Hair: amzn.to/3CIPqFd (Long strand, high strength for structural repairs) ➡Bondo Glass: amzn.to/2VL7YEi (Short strand, medium strength for filling areas too large for plain jelly) ➡Bondo Jelly: amzn.to/3g1NePl (No reinforcing media, for finishing and small scrapes or divots) ➡ Extra hardener: amzn.to/3Wvpsj4 (the fillers should have some included but if you need more here it is)
Your pace and commentary are perfect. I watch so many of these videos because im learning to DIY. Most times im bored or rolling my eyes. This video is the one ill use to do my repair. Thank You.
Thank you! I try to make the videos have a decent flow and be easy to follow without taking an hour to explain everything. It's no fun to have to skip around to find the details and avoid the life story lol
Great video, really informative. I'm wondering whether the material you used was epoxy or polyester based? Normally everyone says to use epoxy on SMC or Nanoxcel so I assume your repair material is epoxy based, but it would be interesting to know and to get your take on that.
I have heard varying reports. These products are indeed polyester based, but are not the same as some of the more traditional body fillers which contain talc which absorbs water and flakes off. I've had great success with the products I've used with repairs lasting for years and years of rental abuse, and aside from ramming into rocks and such, haven't had any delamination or structural issues. I have heard that epoxy fillers may be better, but I have not had a chance, or a need to look into them as of yet.
@@trythistv Thanks for the quick reply mate! I guess the cleaning of the damaged area to get rid of the Nanoxcel wax is more important than the choice of chemicals you use to repair with. Makes sense.
I've got a 07 F15x that I need to see about fixing at some point, figure I'll make some videos about it. It was hydrolocked, mashed spark plug and bent or broke some valves, I've got a second engine but it had low oil pressure and some knocking, I'm hoping I can find enough good parts to make a complete set of hard parts, new bearings, gaskets and get it back on the water at some point. I run a small business repairing boats and jetskis, so I use a 04 F12 as my "service vehicle" sometimes, saves driving the truck somewhere if its a simple job, and the storage compartments are so huge on the Hondas I can fit everything but the kitchen sink in there!
Question for you... Have you ever used the fiberglass resin paste to repair bottom damage or more specifically the deep v section on one of these nano hulls? I have two of them that I really would like to tackle myself but I'm still a little bit concerned about structural integrity. Like you said, it's very necessary to pay extreme attention to remaining clean during the process but do you believe that if a person could build a rotisserie type device to hold the ski upside down during the process that dousing the nano fibrous air pockets with large amounts of acetone would just sort of melt and evaporate the waxes back deeper inside creating even a cleaner bonding area? Of course that dousing would necessitate letting the area dry much longer but what do u think?
Funny you mention this rotisserie idea... I've been pondering a way to build a universal jetski rotisserie, because I do end up doing some repairs on the bottoms of hulls, and even if the machine was tipped 90 degrees on its side it would make it far easier to repair and get a nice strong bond. I've not yet done a bottom repair on a NanoXcel but I have repaired the bottom nose on several rental Hondas and the pre-nanoxcel Yamaha hulls where rentals would get weak and break through from constantly ramming into the jetski ports to get fuel and such. Those repairs would usually last a couple seasons of rental abuse before someone would end up railing into something and busting it open again. My personal Honda had a hole about the size of my fist dead square in the middle of the bottom of the hull when I bought it, I flipped it on its side, used some ratchet straps to my porch to keep it from tipping all the way over, and I repaired the bottom with some of the long strand filler that I showed but didn't use on the repairs in this video. It has been holding flawlessly since 2014.
I've made repairs to the bottom of my EXR which is a Nanoxcel 2 hull, while it's still on the trailer. I've tested those fixes in the surf - no issues at all. I don't generally use acetone for cleaning/prep - I use an aerosol can of wax and grease remover. Spray it on, leave it to sit there, then wipe it off. Then I spray on Isopropyl alcohol and wipe that off. I'm sure acetone is better, but it's pretty harsh too, and I don't always have it on hand. I use a flexible epoxy (I don't have the range of brands you do, so I didn't have as much choice - I use a product called "Norflex" by a company called Norglass). In the video, Mr. trythistv uses the Bondo range of products which work really well for him and his repairs seem to hold up really well - he's done many repairs from the looks of things and his technique seems to work really well. I'm sure that repairing the hull while it's upside down would be optimal but I can't put mine upside down - I just make sure I use an aerosol wax and grease remover. The spray action helps to overcome gravity. And as long as you push the resin onto the repair, I can't see it causing too much trouble. Of course, it's always best to get the hull on its side if you can...
Good catch! Thanks for letting me know, I added a link to the hardener, a small tube should come with the filler but if you use all of that, it is handy to have some extra around.
Mine has bottom damage as well and I was looking to do a patch repair like this. But I'm just concerned that if it will still leak and my ski would sink. Mines also a nanoxcel hull so I'm still learning about this stuff. Is this type of repair okay to do on the bottom of the hull?
I have done repairs using this technique on the bottoms of hulls before and it has held up very well, however with that being said, any damaged area will tend to be prone to failure again, it won't be quite as strong after a repair, but it will be watertight and likely hold up for a good long time. I've repaired directly in front of the pump tunnel on some 2020 vx deluxes that are used as rentals, and it holds up fairly well, usually about a year of rental use (400hours or so, plus being stored in the water 24/7) before it ever causes an issue again. The one thing I would mention is definitely use the long strand "kitty hair" or Bondo hair type products, they are a bit more miserable to work with but the fiberglass strands add a lot of strength. Once you've got a good base of those you can switch to the short strand or resin jelly to get a nice smooth surface to paint. I may make a video about major repairs in the next couple months since I have a few I need to do over the winter.
@@trythistv hey so just an update. I repaired the bottom of my hull using your method, except using the fiberglass bondo. And filled in the crack at the bottom, and finished up and painted everything. Then took it out and tested it multiple times and it's back to normal. Had no leaks and no issues. Ran perfect like brand new
@@razena7365 good deal! I'd just keep an eye on it for a little while, but chances are it'll hold up for a good long time, my hull has been fine for years, unless you hit something hard enough that it would have damaged the original fiberglass it shouldn't cause any issues with the repair.
So the paint I used is a nason single stage, Suzuki z7j dark blue, at some point I saw it referred to as catseye blue. I got it matched at my local O'Reilly, I took the machine in and they have a paint scanner thing. It isn't a perfect match, but it is close enough that it's awful hard to tell, and the difference could just be the type of paint or fading.
Can you only repair chips and cracks? What if there is a chunk missing? What would you use as a backing to apply the long strand filler? Maybe just some thick tape inside the hull and remove it after it dries?
If you have access to the inside, what I might do is grind out the whole area inside and out, clean it all up good, and then apply tape to the outside, apply long strand filler inside to make a good strong backing, then remove the tape from the outside and fill the hole/gouge from the outside so you'd end up sandwiching long strand filler on both sides and it would bond well to the areas you ground back and cleaned and make for a very nice strong repair
Very comparable in terms of repair, I have had good success with this process on nano 1 and 2 hulls. I have heard depending on how bad the damage is, there are epoxy resins that may bond even better than the products I used. The same cleaning process is essential as both versions of hull have the embedded air pockets that makes the hull lighter, which is done with wax, so that wax spreads everywhere, clean it off good between any processes like sanding or such that could release the wax onto the surface.
I've seen guys do a small repair like around the hook on the front where someone overshot a port and hit the dock, and I think it was usually around $150, doing a whole ski like I did in this video, I would expect $500 or so, maybe more. I only do bodywork on rentals, and not terribly often, so I may not be the best judge.