Hub/Bearing Bolts -----------------------------------------------------------------------149 ft lbs Axle Nut - 132 ft lbs Beginning Torque, Then Rotate 5 to 10 ~ Times With a Final Torque of 263 ft lbs
hi joe im loosing sleep. can i use the same axle hub nut. one nut at the dealer is $80 bucks. and can i use the same washer too. thanks in advance. and as for torque my torque wrench goes up to 250lb can i get away with that.???
If you put bearings in...Timken is the bearing/ hub to go with. There are “some” higher performance bearings, unless you are Baja racing then Timkens will serve you well. Good video and explanation. Cheers
Yes and no. Some Timken is made to high standards but some is also produced by b third world parties. Timken produces good steel at least domestically in the states but in this day and age it's hard to tell where anything is sourced.
@@aaronwilcox6417 I agree there can be bad batches but it’s rare some products have crap products all through out like I won’t buy Dorman or other sub par products
Good content. Folks this is how easy it should be. This is a perfect example of someone who takes the time to do the jod right the first time around. Thanks for sharing.
@@txkuntryboy I agree. Is it going to fail or fall apart without being torqued to spec. most likely no. For the most part a majority of shops don't bother torquing everything including dealerships unless its like a head gasket, plastic plenum or something like that. Not to mention having your torque wrench calibrated every year. Most people can't even remember to back it off after its last use. At my job everything is calibrated, torqued and documented. If there is no paper trail for the bolts they are thrown away and new ones are used.
Just got mine pulled apart! Getting parts Monday. My original bearings made it to 199,955 miles! Not to bad eh? Did mine all with hand tools. Didn't go near as fast as your job! Our torque techniques are very similar. German spec - -guttentight.
Good vid. I had a 03 2500 and had to change out the ball joints at around 60K. Trying to save the front bearings was the hardest part since mine where not anti-seized and had rusted in pretty good, and I'm not even in the rust belt. My bearings where still good and I didn't want to replace them and I didn't have the money to replace the bearings at the same time as the ball joints so I had to keep working them out little by little since they where seized in and using a sliding hammer would have damaged the bearings. I ended up using two 1 ton bottle jacks and backed the bearing bolts out about 1/4" then put the two bottle jacks (one on the front side of axle and one on rear side of the axle) from frame to bearing bolt heads and slowly put pressure on them with the jacks and had to hit on the part of the bearing where the bolts went in to slowly get them to give and work their way out. Needless to say when I put the bearings back in they had they had anti-seize on them so if I had to change them out in the future it would have been a lot easier to remove the old ones.
You can also back the bearing bolts out like you said. Then use a steel drift or peace of steel between the bolt & diff housing. Have someone turn the wheel for you with the truck running & use the power steering to press out the bearing. Do it diagonally front & rear have done many times.
where I live the vid would be called ( replace a dodge unit bearing in 2 DAYS). , I lost it the he just pulled hub off .. half these guys would be over in the corner of the garage in the fetal position sucking their thumb if they worked in the salt belt lol , good vid ,
@@73DiamondReo yes im in NS , i polish em to mirror finish and anti sieze the hell out of everything, still if 5-6 years pass yer beating on it again , id say pull em apart every 2-3 years just to keep em freed up but don’t wana disturb axle seals that much , cause replacing them sucks even worse
It took a four foot pipe over a breaker bar along witb all my weight to get the right axle nut off. Same with the left but in addition, I had to heat up the left nut with a torch. That was after spraying both with penetrating oil and letting it sit overnight. The hubs were OEM original, never been replaced and I've owned the truck since new. The truck is also a west coast vehicle so very little rust. 108,000 miles. It also required quite a lot of profanities to break them loose as well. Supprised the socket didn't fail. What do they use to put these on with at the factory, a jackhammer? And no, I did not forget to remove the cotter pins. But it sure felt like it.
I’m doing mine right now and I guess autozone gave me the wrong hub because my rotors won’t fit. Now I had to go buy new rotors and the seat in the rear of the hub... somehow none of this makes sense.
Great video. Just raised mine up to rotate front drive shaft to lube cardigan joint. Front wheel had about 1/4 inch play. Spins nice but will retighten and check it out.
324k on my 2000 cummins original hub bearins and tie rods and ball joints. Replacing them and had a very difficult time removing the castle nut on the axle and the hub was terrible to remove. It's all quite easy with the exception of removing that castle nut and hub.
Thanks for the information, great video. The front hub bearings on my 2016 Ram 2500 4x4 diesel with 165,000 miles just went out. Have the weekend to repair them.
Better Greece not more of it. Plus the quality of the steel and the machining has a lot to do with it.. Not to mention the seals that keep the grease in.I’m guessing these cheap ass parts he put on won’t last long
Having mine replaced right now. 2013, 2500 with 275,000 miles. I've replaced tie rods and ball joints twice. My advice stay away from Mopar junk when it comes to your frontend.
Great video I just hit a 105k on mine front u joints are out left side is clunky right side is too, not as bad tho. Bearing on left is shot has notable grinding sound and right is about the same not as bad. I think it was 250 ft. Pounds for axle nut and hub nut was 50 ft. Pounds then another 90 degree turn.
Great video. My 2016 Ram 2500 RWD 6.4 HEMI with 134k, and the left front wheel bearing died. Got a hum that sounded like i put big fat knobby off road tires on. You know, the sound as you slow down to a red light then roll off when it turn green. Well, I figured it was a wheel bearing but took it to the dealership to make sure. Yep, wheel bearing. Also had 5 recalls on the truck. I had them do it. $750.00. They better have done the whole assembly and not just the bearings for that price. I want to do the right side on my own, even though they said it was good. I think all I need is the 1-1/16 socket and a breaker bar. I don't have any pneumatic tools, but my Milwaukee 20v impact should do good and a good torque wrench. Thanks Joe Carroll for all the torque settings. Can you tell me all the lube, anti-seize and other products you used and where you used them. Thanks
Hey there so I’m a year late to the party but just for your peace of mind they can’t replace only the bearings in your hub as the hub is a sealed unit and can’t be disassembled to replace the bearings. So rest easy knowing that they replaced the whole hub assembly unit
My 2008 went roughly 183k on the original hub bearings yesterday I was on my way home from work and the passenger side bearing exploded so that’s nice I guess
It's happening to me for the second time first about the same as y'all I'm at 260,000 now and the replacement is out. Limping home. She could still out pull a Ford with one leg tied behind her back.
My ram 2500 has 250k on it, and Ive had to do this job 3 times. 1 of those times I had to get most of the knuckle glowing red to sledgehammer the bearing out. The other 2 times didn't go as well and the bearings had to be cut out with the torch. Most guys I know with ram 2500's have the same experience as me. When I saw the bearing basically fall out in this video, I had to hit the stop button right there. Something's not right here.
Doing mine now just under 200,000 miles on them. Everything going good til I got to the hub retaining bolts. Dam are they seized up. I might have to cut the ball joints to get the spindle out and get a new spindle. 15 minutes with an Ingersoll impact rated at 650LBS and the bolts didn''t move a bit. Going to wash them down with muriatic acid and hope to hell they come out. It is insane how stuck they are.
Awesome video and well put together and explained , I was also wondering what lead you up to replacing them? Was it the grinding sound at low speeds? I’m having that issue and hope this is it.
I'm just hoping it make it to the barn. My tire is by wobbling I'm in 2nd gear easing it home. I have already sprayed a can of wd-40 up in it from behind. It's smoking hot. I used the cheaper hub last time I've only had one go out driver side. I would say that was around 185-200000 miles I have 269,000 and it's out again.
I see your link naw mine where different brand but the same price the one I put on this time was 198.00 for one. But man that last one when it went out it was kinda dangerous for me. I can't believe I got it home.
It's really difficult to hear you while you're narrating. To me the video looks like one of the better ones at how to do this on the Dodge ram but again the volume I just having a problem
It only takes a couple seconds you lossen some bolts then put a socket and extension on a bolt then start truck and use the steering like a press works every time nice and easy
What were your symptoms for knowing they needed to be replaced? I know you showed the sound they were making but were they causing vibration too? My 01 when turning right at low speeds I get vibration throughout the truck. Thinking P/O put wrong fluid in rear diff or something in the front right wheel assembly is worn. Anyone got insight?
is it a vibration or is your steering wheel moving back and forth? A seizing front axle u joint will make the steering wheel saw back and forth at low speeds when making a turn. jack the front of the truck up with the wheels turned and spin the wheel. if you feel a tight spot one or more of the bearing caps is seizing up or you can pull the front axle shafts and move the join's through the range and it should be smooth and easy.
@@73DiamondReo awesome thank you for these tips, I'll test them soon. I hear it throughout the truck and a bit in the steering wheel but is sounds like the back end is vibrating like i hear it in the bed. Not sure if its actually residing in the back end though
Ive got 350,000 kms on original hubs. 200,000 miles. Any recommendations on brands to replace with? I need good quality and inexpensive and fast delivery thank you
Wayne Flett Go timkins, it’s the OEM part, it lasted 200k miles it will go at least that again. I got 340k miles out of mine. Any ways hope this helps.
its pretty much identical to the gmc 2500 i had. i just wanted to check because i am new to the dodge brand. never have owned one before. i must say this is a great video, i assume its the same basically on a 2012 RAM 2500.. question tho i you dont mind.. when the truck is in 2wd i dont really hear anything except when i turn really sharp its kinda a clunking noise. and in 4wd it seems to make a vibrating sorta thing. would that be my hubs you think? anyways great video i subscribed because of it
Thanks for the sub. i don't think its your hub bearings. first thing i would check is your front axle U-joints. does it shake the wheel back and forth when making slow tight turns? your front axles and driveshaft turn in 2wd or 4wd on these trucks. you can jack the front up with the wheels turned and swing the tires by hand to check for binding or spin the week back and forth slightly looking for bad needle bearings in one of the u joint caps. curious what you find
@@73DiamondReo ok I'll look into that, and ya when u turn basically almost lock either way it foes here the wheel back and forth. Not all the time tho. I'll check that
Definitely not a 20 minute job if it’s 170k and never been touched before. Bearings are good but the inner axle seal is shot so it all comes apart. Nice concise video though, for disassembly sequence!
I think my bearings are ok, but at 150k I would like to replace them. The problem I can see is oil coming from the axel, getting on the u joint area. I suppose there is a seal and bearing in there, did you do a video on that area ?
I had mine replaced 8,500 miles ago with Moog ($400+ each) and they are already loose, just bad luck? The original only went about 88,000 miles- more bad luck... Anyway, I am about to replace them again but this time myself, is lubing the bearing with grease before install needed?
I just picked up the moogs myself. I'm wondering if I should go for Detroit instead with the price. I've got 105k and it's on a 14 2500. I've always heard about greasing.
I think that's in line with what you would expect from a shop. most shops charge book rate (the time expected to complete the job and not what they can actually get it done in) and a markup on the parts. I dont think your shop took advantage of you at all especially if the bearing has never been off before. I have had the front end apart quite a bit and neversiezed everything to make my life easier in the future.
@@73DiamondReo I'm doing the bearing myself, got the hub off with heat and a sledge hammer lol. It was rusted in good after 3 years on Canadian salted roads
Only one problem with this video. Most hubs are rusted in and don’t literally fall out. Good luck doing that in 20 minutes on a truck anywhere there is real winters.
Whats the background noise toward the end?? Do you live right beside the ocean? Lol. Anyway good vid, you make it look too easy. I should do a video when I do my dodge. 465,000 kms hasnt been touched yet, so don’t think it’s gonna go quite as smoothly as yours. Probably be a lot of swearing and a big hammer involved!
My 2500 diesel (2012) has 95,00 miles on it and both hubs started screeching today. Great video, how tight do you tighten the spindle nut. The bearings you have are the Detroit Axle model? Thanks for the help!
Yes detroit axle bearings. i believe it was 260ish ft lbs but I'm not 100% on that and don't think its all that critical like on a tapered roller bearing.
1cleandude Glad everything worked out well. If you neversiezed it all if you have to do your ball joints or front axle u joints everything will come apart really easily for you.
@@73DiamondReo it's the right barings and had everything installed before I put the clips together the inside is the same on the clip but the outer housing is different
Just to re-cap....need a 1 11/16" socket for the hub and final torque is 263 FT LBS! Chinese shit sucks go Moog or SKF.....Timkin is hit or miss. 2015 2500 4x4 w/ 200k
i live in PA with a pennDot yard a mile from my house. Truck sees a ton of Brine and is out in every snowstorm. i just cleaned the hubs and knuckles then neversiezed many years ago and never had a problem.
best i could do at the time. making a video is a lot of work and sometimes the job at hand is more important. Far more people have found it helpful than if there was no video at all. I suggest you make a video with better lighting and sound to address my issues.
