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Replace Lead Acid Battery With Lithium (LiFePO4) 

Cleversolarpower
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In this video, I'll walk you through the steps to replace lead acid battery with LiFePO4 and why the concept of a drop-in replacement lithium battery isn't as straightforward as it seems.
Many of you have asked, "Can I replace lead acid battery with lithium ion?" Yes, but it requires consideration of components such as the charge controller, battery charger, and more. We'll explore why a lead acid replacement battery isn't just a simple swap. We will also explore the specifics of making a lead acid to lithium conversion, focusing on ensuring compatibility and safety.
From adjusting charge controllers for a lead acid drop-in replacement to understanding the importance of fuses and temperature considerations, this video covers everything you need to know about upgrading to lithium batteries efficiently and safely.
Join me as I demystify the process and provide you with all the knowledge you need to make an informed decision on whether you can replace a lead acid battery with a lithium battery and how to execute it properly.

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27 июн 2024

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Комментарии : 41   
@cleversolarpower
@cleversolarpower Месяц назад
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com/free-diagrams/ 📖 My Best-Selling book on Amazon: cleversolarpower.com/off-grid-solar-power-simplified 💵Use coupon code: clever6 to get 6% discount for Litime batteries: cleversolarpower.com/litime (cheaper than amazon)
@Leon_Tentek
@Leon_Tentek 3 месяца назад
I can really learn a lot about photovoltaics by watching your videos. Keep up the good work and support you👍
@cleversolarpower
@cleversolarpower 3 месяца назад
Make sure you are subscribed!
@twiddler71
@twiddler71 3 месяца назад
Thank you for this insightful video. One of the most common mistakes people make with solar is not understanding their batteries and how to properly charge/maintain them.
@hmtechsvc
@hmtechsvc 3 месяца назад
it would be good if you could further talk about what happens to lifepo4 that are charged using agm charging curves - i say this because there are a TON of ppl who have done this - that would really compliment this video - thank you for your content!
@brushbum7508
@brushbum7508 3 месяца назад
Good Morning ! Thank You. TAKE CARE..
@Ekanselter
@Ekanselter 3 месяца назад
Very good to know!
@mohammdsaeed4722
@mohammdsaeed4722 3 месяца назад
Hi friend 👋 please videos about Earthing in Solar System?
@Mr1797071
@Mr1797071 3 месяца назад
I want to know the conversion of L-16 amp hour ratings to LiFePO4 amp hour ratings.
@racko6ix
@racko6ix Месяц назад
I thought I'd chech switch over videos to get insight on performance. This is got to be good knowledge, but my 52v li-ion came with it's own proper charger. So I'm gonna use that and the SLA charger can kick rocks. I wouldn't mix chargers with different batteries anyways.
@gusbisbal9803
@gusbisbal9803 2 месяца назад
Can you get a shunt that talks over CAN Bus?
@april7_
@april7_ 29 дней назад
One question about fuses is that if a battery has it own BMS capable of 100A or 200A what is the purpose of so big fuses?
@cleversolarpower
@cleversolarpower 28 дней назад
A BMS is not the same as a fuse. A BMS cannot break a short circuit current it's just a switch. The use depends on the power output of the inverter, because thats the largest in the system. You can add batteries later on. That way the fuse is correctly sized from the start.
@stephenhickman9502
@stephenhickman9502 3 месяца назад
I'm using a 400 amp hall effect sensor. Are shunts better?
@cleversolarpower
@cleversolarpower 3 месяца назад
I have not compared a hall effect sensor vs. a shunt. I use a shunt for all my installations. You can get a shunt and place it side to side to see which one is more accurate. I believe both are accurate, but does your sensor come with a display?
@stephenhickman9502
@stephenhickman9502 3 месяца назад
@cleversolarpower yes it has a very informative display. It gives real-time amp usage, amp hour/capacity, watt usage, estimated run time in hours and minutes. It's been good.
@hmtechsvc
@hmtechsvc 3 месяца назад
hall effect sensors are subject to magnetic interference of any sort - just try a magnet near it - inline shunts do not have this weakness - good question
@stephenhickman9502
@stephenhickman9502 3 месяца назад
@hmtechsvc Thank you! Very cool. I will experiment with that. I feel already that I'm going to upgrade. Stay blessed my friend.
@terryuland6502
@terryuland6502 3 месяца назад
Why did you say not to put batteries on bare concrete?
@cleversolarpower
@cleversolarpower 3 месяца назад
Concrete can create a temperature difference between the bottom of the battery and the rest of it, especially in cold weather conditions.
@nomanshah6761
@nomanshah6761 3 месяца назад
​@@cleversolarpower thank you for the answer, i want to know that if there is any other reason, like ground conductivity, etc.
@Rudykanal
@Rudykanal 3 месяца назад
Hold on! The charging voltages you are recommending are very aggressive! (BTW, I´m a professional). Lithium batteries, opposite to lead-acid, trives at 20-80% charged state and not at hige voltages over time. You do not need to go above 14,2V to charge fast to 100%. The amount on Ah you get from 14,2V to 14,6V is negligible. If you go to 14,6V you will also probably trip the BMS charging shut off. This is a safety precaution you should not relay on as the end of charge control. It also creates a load dump witch in some cases are harmfull to electronics. This will vary upon the charger used. Charging to the maximum tolerable voltage has no purpose, especially in an RV where the battery is charged every day and rarely is depleted. Also the floating voltage should be kept at a lower state. 13,35V will hold the charge at whatever level you have charged up to. 13,3V will be the best level to maintain around 90% SOC and the battery will live forever. 13,4V if you prioritize holding the battery at 100% SOC at all time. Higher than this will not give any benefits. It will only contribute to mote wear on the battery. Lithium profiles on many chargers does not take into consideration the specific use of the battery. It is often based on full charge at a the shortest possible time and then put the battery to use. In an AV this is rarely the case. Therefore I prefer a fully adjustable charger. My recommendations for charger parameters: Prioritizing the battery health: Bulk/absorption: 14,0V. Absorption time: 0. Float voltage: 13,3V. Prioritizing fast charge and 100% SOC: Bulk/absorption: 14,2V. Absorption time: 0 or max 30 min or so. Float voltage: 13,35V. About the fuses. Did you take into consideration the built in current limiter in "Drop in batteries"?. A typical 100Ah battery has a limit on 100-200A in the BMS. I don´t know how fast they are, but I assume it is faster than a slow mechanical fuse? If this is the case the theoretical short circuit currents you refer to is nothing you will experience in real life?
@cleversolarpower
@cleversolarpower 3 месяца назад
These are factory recommended charging rates. Indeed, there is not much capacity difference, but the balancing function of the BMS only starts if they are at high voltage. A BMS cannot cut the short circuit current. It's an electronic switch, not a proper fuse.
@keithduffield5239
@keithduffield5239 3 месяца назад
I agree with you, and I am also a professional. Also extremely large fuses is dangerous advise if the cables are not upgraded to carry the fuse rating. If you don't and there is a short circuit, the actual reason for the fuses, then the cables may overheat and cause a fire long before the fuse blows.
@keithduffield5239
@keithduffield5239 3 месяца назад
BMS can cut for short circuit current, most I have seen (and use) have a specific (factory programmable) internal short circuit detector with timeout and rest times, designed specifically to handle short circuits. Pity I can't post pictures here otherwise I would send you screengrabs of BMS control software setup screens. In any event the BMS will limit the output current to the batteries rating (not the cell capabilities) under normal operation and you won't be able to draw more so there is no point in using a fuse greater than 1.25 X battery rating. Being an electronic switch it is probably thousands of times faster than a physical fuse which has to heat a wire until it fails. MOSFETS can switch in nano or micro seconds. In a lead acid battery it is up to the charge controller and system design to look after the battery charge/discharge rates. A battery with a BMS, is just that, it's all in the name, Battery Management System. The BMS looks after the cells in the battery, including limiting the charge and discharge rates to the factory recommended rates.. I take your point that the high charge voltage is needed to trigger balancing. However it is not cut and dried. Each battery will have its own voltage at which this occurs. That is why you should ALWAYS use the charge parameters specified by the manufacturer. This is most often printed on a label on the battery.
@fratermus5502
@fratermus5502 3 месяца назад
Agreed on all points, @Rudykanal
@fratermus5502
@fratermus5502 3 месяца назад
@@cleversolarpowerCharging rates != charging voltages.
@stevehardyuk
@stevehardyuk 3 месяца назад
Hi Nick I did not understand the fuse needed for the battery. Its probably me so please forgive me. Steve
@cleversolarpower
@cleversolarpower 3 месяца назад
Charge controller current * 1.25 = minimum fuse current. Check out my video about choosing fuses and wires for more information.
@stevehardyuk
@stevehardyuk 3 месяца назад
@cleversolarpower thanks Nick, yes will go back and watch the video. I also bought the book. Many thanks Steve
@hmtechsvc
@hmtechsvc 3 месяца назад
agm is higher resistance - lifepo4 can (really) do sustained 1c - whatever your use case for swapping out agm - you need to be ready for that current in both directions - fuses are always a good idea - i prefer 2 pole breakers as they completely isolate instead
@simon359
@simon359 3 месяца назад
Equalization should be disabled!
@cleversolarpower
@cleversolarpower 3 месяца назад
Indeed!
@hmtechsvc
@hmtechsvc 3 месяца назад
can you elaborate please?
@simon359
@simon359 3 месяца назад
@@hmtechsvc Lead acid only has equalization, not lithium!
@KyaloSengani-ou2hl
@KyaloSengani-ou2hl 3 месяца назад
Iam solar technician in kenya lead acid are complete failure
@cleversolarpower
@cleversolarpower 3 месяца назад
They are still good, but lithium is much cheaper than lead acid now.
@L.V-Rider
@L.V-Rider Месяц назад
@KyaloSengani-ou2hl - Not true.
@L.V-Rider
@L.V-Rider Месяц назад
A lot of misinformation here. Don't make videos about something you don't have proper knowledge and experience of.
@cleversolarpower
@cleversolarpower Месяц назад
Please clarify what you find to be wrong in the video.
@L.V-Rider
@L.V-Rider Месяц назад
@@cleversolarpower The voltage settings are not for optimum battery life. Equalisation charge not existing in LiFe batteries as the BMS is doing the balancing. You can charge a lithium battery with a charger made for lead, just set the cut-off voltage in the BMS at 14V and it will not go into lead boost charge voltage and time. Your fuse rating is wrong, you will burn the system when something goes wrong. Not putting batteries directly on the floor comes from the early lead acid battery times when battery casings were made from wood and sealed with tar and leak may occur and damage the floor. People not knowing that wanted to know why and came up with different wrong explanations including the temperature thing. As for the lead battery to lithium battery connection, no need for a charger in-between, just connect them directly. Many people around the world including myself do it for a long time now. Battery manufacturers comes up with different reasons why not to do it as they want to sell more of their own batteries. Edit: When lead and lithium are connected together, both last longer and when lithium BMS switch off a alternator don't get damaged as the lead is still there to take the charge. Basically almost every point you make in this video is BS.
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