Im a 59 year old housewife and just found your channel…now im binge watching! Haha! Very informative and easy for me to understanding even! You have a new subscriber!😂
Great video Ethan, liked the use of the post jack and the end sealing with Alex plus. Drilling into old brick can be sketchy. What I enjoy most about your videos is that you are clear, concise and show us “your way” Doing a good job for your customers/followers resonates throughout all of your videos. Keep them coming.
Great video. The builders of my house could learn a lot from you. One of my wooden posts is terribly rotted out at the bottom. I will replace that one first, but will replace all of them with the guidance from your video.
Once again, awesome suggestions and video. I am about to replace 14 - 25yr old 4x4 porch posts with the same turned 6x6s you have. A lot of negatives about these types of posts, but doing it with heavy caulk is a great idea. The newer ones come specially sealed at the bottom now to help repel water, so you can't trim from the bottom. I will still add caulk to bottom and inside like you suggested and will do the top also because I have OCD with caulk. I am also installing a top and bottom round vent, even though I will have a bottom plate. Again OCD. Keep up the great vids.
Great video:I had a porch column placed on end of porch nx to drive. Over time, rain water went between 1st and 2nd post. That caused the dirt in front to loosen sandstone under porch. Great video. I took notes. Now, I will have a carpenter do it right! Thanks for your help.
Thank you! I’m sure it’s not going to be as easy as you made it look, not for me anyway. But, thank you so much. That is the exact type of column that I need to replace and I want it to be replaced with a square column.
Did you successfully replace you column with a 6 by 6 square pressure treated posts and how much was the total costs if a carpenter type did the install
Thank you! I have this exact situation.....except with wood rot on the corner....i appreciate your attention to detail.....i have never seen a post jack like the one you use......i plan to get one....again thank you and i hope you make many more videos!
Robert Stanton you’re welcome! Check out the masonry aisle at your local Lowes or Home Depot, there’s a good chance they’ll have a 98” post jack. Good luck with the project!
I have heard of in a 3 post set up, you can cut the center post low and put a heavey duty rolling jack on it and then change the other outer two out. But I really liked seeing the right tools for the job.
YES. He should have. Simpson makes post bases of varying sizes and types. When I replace columns I use their post bases and anchor them according to their recommendations for strength. When anchoring into concrete I also use anchoring adhesives. I also anchor the tops of these column posts...NEVER just toenail a column, especially if they are carrying weight. Here's why .... Wood shrinks. Even PVC expands and contracts. When wood shrinks over time in the columns, the awenings over time begin to sag amongst many other issues. Also, when you do not attach the columns properly and firmly to ground and to the awening itself you are leaving room for disaster if and when you experience a storm that bring hard and heavy UPDRAFTS. An updraft will easily pick that awening up and sling it off the house if it is not anchored down by its columns. I've seen and repaired every example of what I just told you. I'm a builder/carpenter who works closely with a friend who is a structural engineer. I believe he would disown me if I did what this kid in this video did.
@@adamwest3266 thank you for the reply. Now I know this may seem like a dumb question but when putting up this aluminum post are they just hallow inside or do you need a wood post ? I’ve been looking into replacing mine but I’m learning aswell
Great video. Do you happen to have a video on how to wrap old metal porch columns/posts? I saw another video on the PVC trim where you briefly mentioned doing this but im not able to find a video dedicated to it. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for watching Audrey! Unfortunately I don’t have a video about metal wrapping, because I no longer have a metal “brake” tool. But I’m teaming up with other pros for videos these days, so I’ll try my best to make one soon!
@@TheHonestCarpenter thank you for getting back to me. I just found your channel and subscribed. I love learning about the right way to improve/repair my home.
You can purchase rolls of aluminum fascia in Home Depot and can rent an aluminum brake to bend it if you know the exact dimensions. These brakes are heavy so you can do it right in Home Depot's rental area outside and then return the tool without ever leaving the place. It's a great alternative, just measure first and your on your way.
Very nice video! I'm curious, did you caulk both ends or just the base where it said "paint before use?" I noticed you chiseled away some of the original caulking, but did not need new caulk. Is it not necessary to caulk the top?
Imagine the caulking at the top was just to hide the gap for painting. He didn't cut the top so it should still be sealed from factory. Caulking at top was probably just from painting before
Those posts is what i currently have on my house. They are garbage. And nailing them is what the previous owners did. So, i am getting rid of that garbage. I am putting simpson brackets up top and floor brackets on the ground.
So how would you anchor the base into the brick as well as fasten the base to the bottom of the post? I have similar style posts on my front porch(built in '87) and will need to replace them very soon as they are starting to rot.
With that gap on the bottom sides of the plastic footing, what's to keep ants/termites from going underneath and up into the pole since there was a good 1-2" square hole all the way up into the beam?
I have a question on which circular saw blade to use with Fypon porch post. (PVC, foam, with steel rod). I'm stuck on which blade will cut all 3 and give a nice finish. I'm thinking of the carbide Diablo 40T blade. (It's either the 40 or 48). What are your thoughts/recommendations for which blade? ( I know people say use a reciprocating saw, but I want to make sure the cuts are straight. Posts are load bearing.)
I don't understand how the screws / wood plate on your screw jack prevent kicking out. It appears you've just added a wood plate to the top and bottom of the jack, but that's not secure into the brick or the roof. So you could still kick out the jack, right?
Would a 6 by 6 pressure treated solid post, primed and painted on a galvanized anchor age better, with less deterioration from water and weather over the years. I've seen many home depot reviews of that posts where the seams split. I expect, however, that perhaps they didnt use anhors to elevate the posts away from water, and didnt seal it with alex caulk. But, is a pressure treated post more long lasting?
Hi, I have an octagonal gazebo with 8 wooden posts (poles) 4x4 that are either bent or unleveled to one side (some of them are not bent but straight but no more leveled), I need to replace all of them with stronger and thicker poles, but before replacing poles, I need to pull the hole thing to its original position because the roof has moved about 3 to 5 inches from its original position. How can I pull/push the whole thing so the new poles will find the roof in its original position? Thanks in advance.
Is it ok to use that jack on a three decker holding up the second set of porches above the first floor and can I remove one pole at a time and finish that way ?
A wrapped corner column is rotten and I would like to determine if the wrapped beam is also rotten. Where should the jack be placed to determine if the beam is damaged?
That post jack is $196 at my home depot. I have 2 of 2 by 6 by 8ft in my shed, might use my heavy duty rolling car jack to support the roof til a home repIr guy can get to it. I have 1 post at the corner of an about 8 ft by 8ft front porch. Water damage completely rotted out the bottom 12 inches on the post, it hangs 12 inches fell off today, hanging in mid air..scarry
I believe the spacers come in 4x4, 6x6, 6x8 and 8x8 only. Most of the spacers will be located near the end of a lumber aisle near the Simpson Strong Ties end cap displays however the 6x8s usually come with the posts in the post aisle.
Samantha Smith Unfortunately I never did 😞 The time frame just got too hectic. I’m starting to team up with other good tradespeople though, which makes documenting work much easier. I’m going to cover this and a lot of other deck/porch topics soon, so stay tuned!
Samantha Smith Sure! Just go to my website and you can write to me through the Contact tab: www.thehonestcarpenter.com Things have been busy with the channel growing so fast, but I will try to respond as quickly as possible
What if you want to remove a weight bearing metal pole, from a patio? To have more of an open concept patio. Oh, from a 2 story townhouse with concrete floors and ceiling?
Thanks for subscribing gyver! Yes, you can definitely use two post jacks at once. Just remember that they have to be raised in VERY small increments together, or one jack may lift all weight off the other. Just a single turn or so before you turn the other the same amount
Thanks for subscribing gyver! Yes, you can definitely use two post jacks at once. Just remember that they have to be raised in VERY small increments together, or one jack may lift all weight off the other. Just a single turn or so before you turn the other the same amount
Thanks for subscribing gyver! Yes, you can definitely use two post jacks at once. Just remember that they have to be raised in VERY small increments together, or one jack may lift all weight off the other. Just a single turn or so before you turn the other the same amount
Thanks for subscribing gyver! Yes, you can definitely use two post jacks at once. Just remember that they have to be raised in VERY small increments together, or one jack may lift all weight off the other. Just a single turn or so before you turn the other the same amount
Thanks for subscribing gyver! Yes, you can definitely use two post jacks at once. Just remember that they have to be raised in VERY small increments together, or one jack may lift all weight off the other. Just a single turn or so before you turn the other the same amount
Perhaps I missed just how to prevent the bottom of the Post from simply being "Kicked" out? If the 1/2" Plastic Base is anchored first to the Brick surface, just how does one attach/secure the bottom of the wood post to the top of the plastic base?? OR, if the Plastic Base get attached to the bottom of the Post first, then how does one anchor the Plastic to the Brick, etc??? I'm missing something and hope that someone can clear this up. I have some post rot at the bottom of some 6"x6" which sit on a metal post base (1" off the ground) BUT, the home builders wrapped the bottom with wood to his the unsightly metal post base, and with the wood to wood contact, obviously, the post wood at the bottom rotted over time. Need a solution which doesn't cause post base rot. Water finds a way unless it can 'Run Off" of the vertical surface at bottom, exactly what I like about your configuration, in other words........Less Is More!! thx Paul
He says he’s relying on the railing to prevent the bottom from moving. I guess he’s also relying on no code inspection! My recent experience is you can’t use this kind of post and base on concrete or brick anymore for the reasons you mention. You need an inner load bearing post that sits in a steel stand-off saddle, and all of it is encased in whatever you want to make it look pretty, such as fiberglass column wraps. It’s a lot more expensive but a much better and long lasting solution.
DO NOT TAKE THIS GUY'S ADVICE if you're wanting to do this the correct way. NEVER NEVER install load bearing columns without anchoring them to the decking and NEVER NEVER just "toenail" the tops of the columns and rely on gravity to hold the columns in place. Here's why..... 1. Wood shrinks. Your shrinking columns will cause the awening to sag over time. I've replaced so many of these types of columns, installed as this guy has done here and have had to bring the awening back to level. Trust me....If you want to see me keep buying new cars, then do what this kid is doing. 2. Updraft. When you're only toenailing the tops of the columns and NOT attaching the bases to the decking, you are leaving that awening at risk to be picked up and ripped off the house during a high wind storm, when otherwise It would have a chance. I have replaced several awenings after big storms. They're usually bent sideways and folded down against the house, or flipped over next to the porch and the columns are laying on the ground with the little nails hanging out.....They probably would have survived the wind had they been anchored. That wind picks them up like sails and wiggles them around until they snap loose from the house. I don't care if some codes allow what this kid has done, or if "that's just how it's done," or "gravity will hold them in place." No no. It's wrong for just the few major reasons I've mentioned.
@bluecatninja Yep, I actually replaced all of the columns in this porch that way. Just make sure you don’t lift too much as you go down the line-you can unsettle the columns you just replaced
