@Hazy Hello, I also did what you show in the video until then everything is fine, but after I have assembled everything came the error that the level control has deleted everything error comes anyway
I’m trying to lower my 5.0 to dynamic low setting but my switch is just flashing, it will rise to highest ride and lower to standard but not to dynamic lowest setting, could it be a low battery possibly ? RR sport 5.0 overfinch
I did all that already got a new one, replace the middel lock valve and the back, new compressor but still get the error C1a13-6 pressure done not decrease when venting gallery and rear right corner valve so i dont now what more it can be. I hopen the left dive side and on the doorstep front and back check for water, or broken cable but all looks good. Any more idea Land rover sport 2010
Hi. Thanks for the videos. Looking for help. I'm having problems with the right side of my 07 RR SC sagging on the right side Front and Back over night. Just the right side.. but more noticeable the front right. Front airbags replaced 3months ago and front sensors were replaced about 2 yrs ago. I did the test of removing the fuse and there was no sag. Any ideal on what I should look for?
Sometimes, not all the time, my vehicle (2006 lr3) starts bouncing like it's got a flat tire. If I stop turn off the engine, start again the problem goes away. I am thinking it might be a leak somewhere because the truck does loose height overnight . I will try removing the fuse and see if it's air shock problem or the valve block. Thanks ... good video. Subscribed.
@@BaysideISbetter I changed both front and rear valve blocks , removed the wheel spacers I had in the front (left the rear ones) , now the truck keeps it's height and the bouncing went away ever since. Keeping my fingers crossed it doesn't start again.
I have noticed that you have swapped out the air springs for coils. Do you mind sharing how you find the drive after the change from air suspension. I have recently purchased a coil solution as I am experiencing difficulties with the air suspension but your videos/ solutions make troubleshooting very easy (thanks). Just wondering if I have made the right decision to convert. Currently both rear springs are sagging and will not inflate. Air compressor last changed this year but is an aftermarket. Vehicle has done 95k miles and struts/ airbags have never been changed. Thanks for your time.
These are 2in lift springs (from Atlantic British) so they are a small bit stiffer than the old air springs, but honestly, the reliability and lack of having to worry about the suspension makes it all worth while. I think the 2in lift with 265/65/19 tires looks good as well.
@@HazyJay when changing to Coils will you now have error messages on your dash/system? Where will you connect everything now if the airbags are gone? Please explain. Thanks I have a 2008 LR3 SE
Hi there, my RR is completely lowered. When I start my car the compressor works for few seconds, the car will NOT raise up and after few seconds the compressor will stop and at the same time I'll get suspension fault problem. I don't want to take it to an "expert" as they're not experts and of course I can't take it to the dealer as they will have fun with my wallet. Where would you say I start checking?
Both the front air shocks of my 2010 RR Sport were leaking very badly. I replaced them. It would not raise! So I replaced the compressor as well. Now the rear will not COME DOWN! Is the new compressor not venting correctly?? Is it a valve block?? I sincerely appreciate your videos. Code: C1A13-64 "Pressure does not decrease when venting gallery"
Hi I have been getting the C1A18-64 fault on my RRS L320 2012, meaning "Pressure increases too rapid when filling reservoir. Intermittent", any ideas what this could be ? the fault on the dashboard doesn't appear constantly, but every time I use the car the dashboard light "suspension fault" will appear and disappear during a drive.
@HazyJay of course I want to fix the problem but as a temp solution to driving the car this will work. When starting the car back up again what level will it pump up to, hopeit won't reset back to extended? Should I try set the computer to normal height before draining the air from the rear so it only pumps back up to normal height?
@@DoU3vnLftBr0 Hard to say what it will try to go to when you restart the car, honestly the compressor might shut off because it gets too hot before it gets back to extended. Definitely try and press low or normal height as soon as you start the car, the height sensors should know you are no longer extended.
Hi I have problems showing suspension fault and showing on the screen the Front right Tire is down not up can you pls help me on that , but the car drive fine and going up and down with no problem??
Thank you for your video very helpful. Do you know if the car not falling down(2-4 days parked)and without any leaking it still showed suspension fault is it possible for reservoir valve works not correct. I connect cpu and it shows rapid air pressure or slow air pressure going. It could be air reservoir valve?
@Hazy when changing to Coils will you now have error messages on your dash/system? Where will you connect everything now if the airbags are gone? Please explain. Thanks I have a 2008 LR3 SE
You will have a persistent error UNLESS you do a EAS reflash, basically you splice the device into some wires under the steering wheel area and reflash the system. It's not too bad of a job even though it sounds bad. The reflash device is seen on the bottom left: www.roverparts.com/suspension/air-coil-suspension-kits/L319SRK-OMEHL/
Atlantic british aka Old Man Emu springs. They're stiffer than the air springs but that's to be expected. The reliability is unbeatable though, no more air suspension issues whatsoever. www.roverparts.com/suspension/air-coil-suspension-kits/L319SRK-OMEHL/
Atlantic British, I didn't make a video since it was the first time I installed them, but there is a video by AB on RU-vid for it. AB video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fnqqbsEHDps.html&t The springs: www.roverparts.com/suspension/air-coil-suspension-kits/L319SRK-OMEHL/
Hi just done mine all 3 valves and pump the rear block was a pig to get back in , no rom for hands and tools possibly because i still have the air struts fitted on your vid seems to be much more room with springs Mike G
Question for you. If you converted from air bags to coil suspension, do you still need to worry about this part or the compressor working at all? I wouldn't think so, right?
No you don't, I converted to springs and you don't need any of the valve blocks or compressor any longer. My kit included a bypass that you hardwire in under the steering wheel that permanently disables the air suspension but allows use of special modes (snow, etc.)
Excellent tutorial video. I was wondering if you could help me diagnose the problem with my 2013 Range Rover Sport. Getting suspension fault indicators and now there is a high pitched whistling noise like air escaping from a balloon in the front of the vehicle. Would this be the valve block leaking or something else?
Be warned the 2013 RRS is a different chassis than the L320 that I have, therefore, the valve block may be in a slightly different location than in the video.
@@HazyJay New information. My buddy has a computer and we got 4 codes:C1A03-92 Lt ride ht sensor, C1A04-92 Rt ht sensor. C1130-7A air supply. C1130-66 air supply. We were able to locate the air leaking sound to the top of the left front air bag. It seems to be at the point where the air line enters the top of the air shock. Compressor works, able to raise/lower vehicle but air noise is when raising front. I guess we'll take left front wheel off and inspect the air hose connection. How do I tell if it's the connection or the air bag leaking?
@@ericr8960 You'll have to visually inspect it to see, unfortunately you'll likely have to remove the strut to tell if it's the line or the welds around the top. If it is the Voss connector, you can try using thread locker and refastening it, otherwise you may just need a new line or strut.
@@HazyJay Thank you again for all your help. The air is definitely escaping from the top of the strut. I ordered a new one from Atlantic British. They tell me that on a 2013 Sport the air line is simply pressed onto the top of the strut. No Voss connector. Can you give any tech info on the actual replacement steps? Anything will help.
Hi, Thanks for video its really helpful, I would ask you question, are front and rear valve block same or there was a difference I'm just asking because I did ordered front and middle from link you provided so I would like to replace all of them but amazon link you provided on this video shoving front not rear? I did already replaced compressor but having same issue with leak overnight and decided to replaced all valve block as well. As well I did subscribe to your channel. Thanks for your response!
The rear valve is a separate part number, I'd order the specific valve of you plan on replacing the rear valve to avoid errors but I'm not sure if it REALLY matters
@@HazyJay Hi! Thanks for your quick response. I did plenty of research and it looks like both are the same anyway I will call dealership in morning just to confirm. Most of the time i was ordering parts for my RR 2008 HSE Sport from parts geek ... com it appear they are good quality and last, I didn't have any issue since I replaced a few years ago air suspension, few days ago just got suspension light come on vehicle rising slowly and replaced air compressor but didn't help to turn light off. Anyway I will figure out after replacing all of them if this will work. One of your videos I noticed sign on your right side wall "Caution High Voltage" did you got that as a gift or we speak same language?
Thanks for all of the helpful info. I was hoping you could answer a question for me. I have a 2009 Range Rover sport and my rear left air shock will not lower. I disconnected the airlines from the valve body and I also disconnected the airline from the top of the rear left shock. Unless I am mistaken, it should have lowered. It did not move. Is it possible for the shock to be hyperextended and physically locked in place?
Was there a hiss of air when you removed the lines? If so it's likely stuck in place, but if not, there may be a piece of rubber or material blocking the outlet ports inside of the air spring. Regardless, it may be time for a replacement air spring, poking around on a POSSIBLY pressurized air spring could be fairly dangerous.
The first line that I removed from the valve body was the supply from the compressor. Yes there was a audible hiss for quite some time. After that I removed a green airline that went from the valve body directly to the shock that is right next to it. I did not notice any audible hiss with that one. I then reconnected all of the air lines and dropped the spare tire. I then removed the air line directly from the top of the shock. It is fully extended and still will not compress.
@@David-qt4bx The solenoid is CLOSED when unenergized, so you should only hear a quick hiss when you disconnected the valve block compressor line. If you heard a long hiss, it means the valve block is leaking since the lines to the springs should be closed by the valve block when the car is off, but regardless, the air spring should have dropped, particularly when it's airline to the valve block was disconnected. I'd guess that the spring is depressurized and may be stuck if the spring was hyperextended at some point (which can cause damage to the spring), it may be worth removing it and seeing if you can notice any obvious angles to the strut (and possibly hammer/manipulate it straight so it will slide again). If the strut looks straight, you may still need a new air spring, but I would also get a new valve block since it leaked for a long time when just the compressor/valve block line was removed which shouldn't be the case.
It's just odd how it happened. Today I was in a parking lot and I went to lower the vehicle to access height to show a friend, and it never made it from ride height to access height. So I'm assuming as it started to drop that rear left did not drop and that is why I got the obstruction message and it raised to off-road height. So it was riding fine at ride height for a month and also lowered to access and raised to off-road with no issues many times. Anyways, so it's not like I had it in off-road and then tried to lower it, so I don't know how it would have been hyperextended. Either way, do you have any ideas on how I can remove it, if it is still pressurized? Or an idea on how I can figure out if it is pressurized? I just don't want parts shooting everywhere once I unbolt it, lol. Thank you for all of your help on this matter.
I just watched your video again, and I realized my lack of sleep over the past two days is catching up to me. The first line that I actually removed was the rear passenger side, the second line that I removed was the rear driver side. I never removed the compressor side. Regardless, like you said, the rear shock should have lowered. I guess on a good note, that means my valve block might still be good.
I've got a rear left corner that refuses go go down past 19" from center cap. Get Rear left corner valve code on my GAP tool. Could this block be my issue?
It could be a failure of the valve to open to release the pressure or a blockage in the line itself. Changing the block in the rear is a good place to start given it's relatively inexpensive.
How well do the aftermarket valve blocks work? I’ve already cleaned my front block on my 4.2 SC. Over night it still sits lower. I’ve replaced front air struts already.
@@HazyJay I replaced my compressor with a Hitachi compressor. Mine was making a loud noise right before it would shut off on a refill cycle. But I guess I can try an aftermarket Valve block. Thanks!
Hi , I just want to get your expert advice , my problem is the rear is lifting at the back irrespective if the car is running or off , could this also be caused by the rear valve block?
The rear is lifting when the car is off? That's strange, but I would watch my other video "sagging over night" to find out if it's a leak in the springs or the valve block.
@@joshuaharris2385 Usually the compressor will run at startup but after that it typically will be dormant during trips (since the reservoir is filled and all springs are filled, there really shouldn't be any additional pressure needed). If it's still running, I would guess there is a leak in the system. I would follow the instructions at the end of this video to find the leak: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dVowjVWG6kM.html
@@HazyJay I set the car up last night, measured all the heights, but I took the 5amp suspension fuse out! Damn it! Lol I’m just about to get outta bed and check the results, I don’t think it’ll be a leaky spring as it would be a very slow leak and the compressor wouldn’t need to work so hard. Thanks for the advice mate 👍😊
@@HazyJay Hey mate, there was no drop in height from any of the springs, which would suggest I can eliminate the springs and the front and rear valve blocks. leaving hose lines, I've had a good listen and soapy watered a lot of areas. found nothing. The compressor is still working way too hard, and the 'Suspension fault' warning will appear when cold starting occasionally but quickly turns its self off. I'm thinking it has to be the air reservoir valve block? either the sensor is gone or the o-rings are worn... what are your thoughts mate?
@@GlennEmery07 Yeah I wonder what would happen if you used the front on the back for instance, buy there must be something different about them otherwise they'd be the same # 🤔, happy new years to you too!
