Replacing 2.0tdi VAG CR timing belt, water pump and crank seal on my 2018 VW Crafter MAN TGE van 

cheers Karl

Glad it was helpful!

thanks, have fun

@@paulsprojects1 well that was 9hrs I’ll never get back I have the crafter with the same engine in but it’s front wheel drive so a absolute pain no room at all I also replaced the oil belt so had to remove the sump but all went well thanks for the video that gave me a idea of what to expect

tbh i cant remember now but i had the specs from a local friend who runs a garage

tbh i'm not 100% where it was leaking from but assumed it was the seal

you need the tool shown in the video to lock the engine into position (very cheap on ebay), the tool locks the crank into position against the housing behind the btm pulley

i believe the service interval on it is 130k miles or 5 years although since i did the cambelt i think its been reduced to 80k miles, either way i'll definitely change it next time or if i hear any noise from it

I called VW and they told me that the small belt lasts very long and at 130K miles it is OK. There are people who had problems with it at 180K miles. It seems it depends on the oil you are using as it is in it the entire time.

I have 2017 crafter 2.0 tdi 50k miles just turned 5 years old should I change the cam belt

fwd is similar but the engine is transverse in the bay compared to mine

@@paulsprojects1 when change timing belt? before 200k km?

thanks for watching, looking forward to your video on the subject!

yes i should have loosened off the crank bolt before removing the belt which was an oversight, the cam sprocket is a two piece design and is designed to be loosened to allow for any variance in the new belt, the cam itself is locked in position with the pin so only the sprocket moves when you loosen the t30 on the sprocket, this allows the belt to be tensioned evenly and the timing to remain set

@@paulsprojects1 incorrect, you can't turn the sprocket by unscrewing the t30 alone , read the vw procedure .. it's actually easy to understand why you can't do that , the cam sprocket is still attached to the cam shaft until you unscrew the 18" bolt . btw: the torque settings is 20Nm for the idlers (+20Nm+45 for the tensioner) , 100Nm for the 18" cam bolt , 95Nm for the fuel pump bolt (initially these 2 are tighted to 20Nm for manual rotation) and 9Nm for the T30 screw . The T30 screw is there basically to make sure the metal mark is in place

Danidasanic is actually correct, the cam sprocket and fuel pump do need to be loosened along with the T30, this is the only way it’s tensioned correctly especially on the fuel pump side of the belt, 90% of people get it wrong.

@@davidm9673 most of the ppl don't have access to vw manual XD You see ppl placing the belt out of the order because of that and removing the slack by placing the top idler at the end . This type of tensioning Is not as simple as the majority of engines but they do that way to be able to remove all the slack between the 2 sides of the crankshaft sprocket , the pump side and the idler and tension side and it works

@@Danidasanic if you're quoting facts, make sure your posts are accurate. 18" is 18 inches which I'm guessing is not what you meant. Could be confusing for people taking you at your word. I'd also suggest trying to be less critical with your advice. The poster has gone to a lot of effort with this video which I appreciate. Constructive criticism is usually welcome but doesn't have to come across so negatively

as long as you use the locking pins the engine should be in time, just make sure you rotate it by hand for a couple of revolutions before trying to start it to check that nothing touches or locks up

@@paulsprojects1 I have managed to find the markings on the crankshaft, they are on the external belt pulley and on the timing belt cover. There was a slight misalignment of the camshaft due to the bad/worn timing tool that was not the exact thickness that allowed the camshaft to move for a few degrees. Those engines are very sensitive to misalignments.