Cannot tell you enough how much I appreciate this video. My stick shift isn't going in like it should and actually slipped out into neutral. I was like "oh no!" Fearing the worse
This video saved me! I've got a 2005 2nd Gen Tacoma, and finding any resources was proving impossible. I was under my truck with part in hand looking for Toyota videos; this video is short and has all the info I needed. Luckily, the layout was identical to my truck! Even down to the 02 sensor. I was able to spray down the shaft with pb blaster a few times and let it soak overnight while I ran to the hardware store and found this perfect little puller. But the 02 sensor removal, wood block, gentle hammering, and using the shaft nut to protect the threaded fins was all the best advice! Thanks again for posting this; even with my hangups it only took me 1 to 1.5 hrs.
I simply sprayed mine with WD-40, and rest my check engine light. No more issues. I suggest try this first as they come off hard even after you clean/polish the shaft
I had such a hard time prying it off. I ended up using a map torch until the big part of the switch popped off. But that left a small amount of metal still on the shaft. I ended up just using the map torch again for about a minute and the metal around the shaft melted like solder. Just a pointer so people dont have to struggle getting it off. When it doubt, burn it out.
Wow... same problem on my GX460 (same platform as the 4 Runner) but I have ZERO room for any sort of puller. No sure what lines are in the way but it is no joke... been at it for 2 hours... more tomorrow!
did it fix it for you? my 4runner has stiff-clunky shifting sometimes, sat for a week and now if i wiggle the stick in drive, it would show drive and sometimes not show drive emblem like it thinks its between gears, but drives fine.
@@snowbell01 I was not able to take everything apart. I spent some time lubricating the sensor and the shifting cable mechanism and it has worked decent. Have had to re-do it a couple of times
On my Tacoma I plan on mounting this switch inside the vehicle next time. I'll make my own lever. Toyota used this horrible design for 20 years and never updated it. It is such a pain.
I hav2 2005 RAV4 automatic w/ 220k. i'll b changing mine. Here was my symptom. Car has loud bang when u press the accelorator with it's in reverse. BUT! If I put it in reverse and wait 2-3 se conds and give it time to adjust (engage) it NEVER bangs.
You said you were going to show the pry tool you used but you didn't. How did you pry and get leverage on this to get it out? My 2018 has this issue right now
Fair. Initially I expected to use a plastic interior pry tool but in the end I used an actual pry bar and even a short chisel (as a pry tool) being sure to protect the transmission case with small blocks of wood so I wasn't levering off the aluminum case. It was a really hard job surprisingly. The 4runner has been a disappointment in the reliability department for me. 40k miles, this failed, the HVAC fan failed, brake caliper pins frozen, some components underneath are very corroded already...
I was hung up a bit on this too - I ended up pausing the video to inspect the bearing puller on the ground next to the heat gun. In the end, I ended up buying a tool called Plumbers Puller by Superior Tool, for like 15 bucks at Ace Hardware. Turned out to be just the thing
I stumbled upon this video and comment thread when the same symptoms occurred to my wife’s 2020 Toyota 4Runner. I went to Ace and purchased the Plumbers Puller as well, worked like a charm, had to pull the O2 sensor but no issues. Thanks to you both!
If you have any penetrant I'd spray around the shell with penetrant spray.. let it sit for 30 minutes and give it a shot. Make sure you're pressing the lock tab down enough. If that doesn't help hit it with a hair dryer or heat gun a little bit expand and soften the connector shell a little. Should come off after that.
One thing I forgot to say was that the nut also has to come off the switch to pull it off. It's a compression nut that helps clamp the switch onto the shaft. So, that M8 bolt (12mm socket) plus the nut..
Had mine fail on a 2020 4runner at 30k miles, thankfully, replaced under warranty by Toyota! Should not have failed on a 2 yo vehicle. I was kind of surprised , when it happened.
The switch has 4 positions. It will only slide on and bolt on if the shifter and the switch are both in the same position. It doesn't matter which of the 4 you use. But Park is safer than neutral because it prevents the vehicle from rolling on you due to the pin in the transmission.
I can only speak from my one singular experience but I didn't have any leaking. I suppose if you used a seriously intense heat gun to take the old one off that it could damage the seal.
@@race-partners looking at a 5th Gen and it’s wet/leaking around that area. No idea if it’s that switch/seal or something more serious.. that’s why I was asking
I'm guessing there are contacts that need to be cleaned up. Light sanding, polish? I think there is another video where someone takes one apart, repairs, and puts it back together. I cleaned mine and replaced it. temporary fix but it worked for a few months
I can only say two things for sure. The piece I replaced had a different PN than the new piece. I think that the old one ended in 60. The other is that I'm not totally sure but given that even I had a different PN for my 2019 I'd say it's likely but you should consult the fishe online to be sure. Thanks for asking that. I wouldn't want to mislead people with the wrong PN.
