Thank you very much in advance for all your assistance, you’re such a life saver for all of us owner ops trying to keep our trucks in the best possible shape: 1. 2018 cascadia with DD15 engine doesn’t have a fuel water separator installed, Asked the dealer why on the last PM and they’re reply was that it’s normal some dd15 come out without it, didn’t feel too sure about it. Feels weird to do an oil change without replacing FWS. Your thoughts? 2. 2020 cascadia new model hazard lights turning on on their own when truck is off, sometimes they turn on when I open the door or without any reason at all. 3.
Thanks for reaching out and I hope that truck is treating you good. That dealer was correct, you can get away with two or three oil changes before that filter needs to be changed. To keep the truck at its best I prefer every 25k miles. The hazard lights coming on can be just a few things screwing up. Either your modular switch Feild (warning triangle) is screwing up which is very likely. Or if you have a cut off switch installed could be screwing up. Or lastly your Sam module that controls can functions is shorting. The easiest way to check. It is when your life start flashing on you push that warning triangle and see if it stops if it does, it’s most likely that modular switch field MSF. If that doesn’t stop it, it’s gonna get a lot more in depth troubleshooting
I know you're not at the same shop anymore but it'd be nice to see some videos from you again, even some shorts. You had really helpful and good advice shown in your videos. hope all is well!
@@bustedknucklebydieseldr3228 how’s everything man? Which shop are you at right now or are you mobile? I have couple of issues that I need looked into ASAP. Let me know how to contact you
@@HA-nx5qn thanks for reaching out man. Things are good. Staying busy and out of trouble. I work for a dealership in Az so unless your ready to pay those dealer prices than Lee looking around.
Really missing your videos! I got an issue with my truck 2018 DD15 620,000 miles it’s running like crap, loss of power, with no check engine lights. Took it to the shop 4 times with them stating that can’t find a problem with it. It feels like it’s a air/fuel problem but shop says everything is working as it should. It all started after fuel pump was replaced. Shop says fuel pressure is good, compression is good, turbo checks out, no air leaks. I’ve replace and Delt P Sensor cleaned Venturi and hot pipe. No coolant inside or clumps of soot. I have replaced MAP sensor. EGR does sweep when initial key on and there is no blockage when moved by hand. However at idle it does bounce back and forth. Shop says one box is good and DOC is in range. However when the problem starts and I pull over it smells like it would if I was doing a regen. Shop is getting annoyed with me returning and I’m getting annoyed with forking out money with no results. Do you think you could give me some advice?
Yo buddy, got a problem with the truck dd15, spn102 fmi 18 code comes up air filter, changed it out few days later it pops up again, can’t find a air leak anywhere. What is your thoughts..
This is a very tricky code to narrow down. What’s happening is there is a lack of pressure being noticed going to your intake. So plugged eng filter , any boost leaks, cac leaks, faulty pressure sensors, failed,mcm, or failed turbo. Many things to go through to narrow this down.
The sensor on the end of the rail is it a push in tab and pull out. Not trying to break it but I don’t see any tabs unless it’s on the backside which isn’t visible.
@@jakplay4 thanks for reaching out. The sensor is a push in tab which seems to always be hidden. I actually use a small pic to lift up on the tab from between the rail and the connector and slide it towards the front of the motor. There usually brittle and this helps best.
Thank you for your hard work , learned a lot from you , I am going to buy freightliner truck in future when market goes down before that taking all the information which I could from you thanks 🙏🏻
Appreciate you reaching out and the positive feedback. Im always here to help when I can and give informed detailed information to those who request it. I thin were all waiting on the prices to drop so we can all make some big purchases me included. Hopefully these vids stay useful to you and you take away alot from them. Good luck on your future purchase and stay safe out there.
I would like to start making some extra money while studying to be a diesel electrical specialist. I have a mobile vehicle and want to do PM’s for fleets. Oil change, oil filters, fuel filters, davco filters, grease chassis. From a mentors perspective, what questions do you have for me before I started buying high quality tools to do theses mobile PM services for fleets ?
Thanks for reaching out. That’s great you’re trying to hustle and start a side Buisness. I would stray away from buying any high dollar tools and keep it all cheap. As you do a few you’ll learn exactly what you need and won’t have to overbuy and spend a fortune on the start up.
Thanks for that advice. When doing oil changes, filter changes, and battery replacement on trucks will I run into any trucks that will require me to have a diagnostic computer to communicate with the trucks computer that I’m doing maintenance ?
Hi I just have one question I am replacing oil pump and suction manifold for my truck because it’s now 1k should I change pick tube and bearing too or just only oil pump suction manifold because my mechanic told me to change only oil pump and suction manifold?please help me out thanks
I would say of your o we 750k miles it would be good practice to replace oil pump, pick up tube orings, and bearings. Just to be safe and to hopefully get passed 1 million miles.
I discovered this channel too late I’ve got two questions why is my cascadia leaning and why does it leak water anyone know I replaced cab mounts. Is it springs? Cab shocks or cab airbags
That’s because these hands are magic. Unless my wife lies to me. It doesn’t take to long to do but srt for the repair is about 5hr. Gta make $$$ somehow right.
Appreciate the positive feedback. I want to say I have one on that but il double check. If I don’t already than for sure , il make a vid on the next one. Thanks for the idea.
Hey man my truck keeps getting check light engine and truck loses force and motor stops running Ive changed Engine Harness, Fuel Pump with QCV,PNDB I get these codes SPN 5418 FMI 4 SPN 1077 FMI 5 SPN 2798 FMI 3 SPN 2797 FMI 3 SPN 651,652, 653, 654, 655, 656 FMI 5 If you can please help, Thank You
Thanks for watching and reaching out. Those codes do relate to a a qcv issue. If the harness and valve have already been replaced the only thing the issue can be is in the engine mcm. That controls current to the qcv for rail fuel pressure. That would be your next step.
Dude, JD where'd you go man? Ive been using your content for DIY's and now your gone. Thanks for all the content, looking forward to seeing some new stuff. Hope all is well.
Thanks for reaching out. I’ve been in hiding. But there is a lot of good content on here and hopefully proves useful. I’m glad someone noticed there hasent been a vid in a little bit.
Good morning, this video was very helpful. But I have a question. Should I replace the rail are just the sensor ? . I have lost of power going up hills (Sometimes not all the time ) SPN 157 is the code On a DD 15.
Thanks for reaching out. I would not replace the rail unless it’s cracked. Save your $$$$. As for that code , depending on the fmi associated with it, it will need to be troubleshot as there is a fuel pressure problem. Either pump not keeping up or a sensor being biased. Gta keep it simple first.
@@bustedknucklebydieseldr3228 Thanks for the reply. I’m out on the road now so I will try to make it home to phoenix from salt lake. And get it checked. But the FMI is 10. I was thinking it changed the sensor. Because the code is not constant.
If you only did the pass through seals I’m sure there not related. Unless it’s sucking in air through an feed like that is not tight. Other than that this code is most likely set due to the system loosing its prime after that repair. Just needs a good prime and clear codes
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with the world JD. The way you explain things is on point and direct. Except for the odd drift off topic... LOL. Your content has been very informative and helpful. The dealerships around here are not very helpful. Usually unable to talk directly to a tech for diagnostic help. The company I work for has many new Freightliners and of course the aftertreatment systems are problematic. Have had numerous units with ACM fault # 520372, fmi 16 for SCR closed loop control at maximum limit. I like to analyze these things as best I can to avoid replacing expensive parts in error. How would you go about diagnosing this one?
Thanks for reaching out and your positive feedback.You know I cant do it without support from viewers like yourself. My odd drift is just because im a weirdo and prob shouldnt be on camera anyway. They let anyone have a camera these days,just crazy. So,thats the problem with dealers,you never get that one on one with the tech and have no idea what there doing or there thought process. I feel communication is key when it comes to dealing with the cust and becoming successful. That reassurance knowing the tech has your back is a game changer. As for that code its a tricky one. Best advise is learn to read log files. Alot of my job is watching the computer and figuring out the numbers .Nox sensors and def dosers are notorius for failing on these cascadias so just learning how to read them and what tests to do makes the differnce.Stay safe out there and always pull up the troubleshooting. It changes every so often so being on top of it puts you in advantage.
Hi. Do you know what should be the fuel rail pressure I am getting 45 mpa at 900 Rpm and I can't get the truck started in 45 F weather and 1 bolts threads are striped on the Quality Control Valve thanks for your help
Hey how you doing thanks for all the great videos I have a question about my 2015 freightliner Cascadia dd15 the davco is not keep any fuel and the truck is cutting off out the driver will put fuel in the davco then prime it and truck starts right up also its not giving any codes can you please help me thank you!
This can be a very tough issue to figure out but you have some great info. I would start by checking that davco and filling it up. Check for bubbles. If there are or it gets sucked down quick than remove that davco filter and check the seals and both ball valves. One is for the drain which could suck air and the other is for fuel regulation in that bowl. A lot of times debris will cause these to stick. Start there and see where it leads you.
It has been a bit right. Been slacking to much. I actually had a change in position and now running the show so it’s been a lil tough to be on camera. Hope things are going better on your side.
Mr Busted Knuckle my 2016 Cascadia I’ve noticed a substantial amount of oil on my air dryer discharge line and under the air dryer itself and it’s only build up air to 100 psi at idle and on the petal maybe 120-130 but the air governor never pops off. Had a similar problem in 2020 I replaced the whole air dryer . I have 864,000 miles on the truck and I’m concerned that the air compressor may need replacing due to the amount of oil on the dryer and lines. Could you give me the best advise you have to trouble shoot and diagnose this correctly ?Thanks in advance !
So this one is quite typical. The oil on the lines is caused by the superheated air being cooled as as it goes down the line away from the compressor. When it heats up it sweats through the line and causes the oil look. There’s only and issue when the air drier is spitting out oil than you’ll know there’s an issue with the compressor. Or when the system isn’t building air as good than you know the lines are built up with to much carbon. Which I think your issue is. I would test this by removing the line and seeing if it has good pressure at a midway connector than again right off the compressor. More than likely you’ll be needing to replace the lines and your drier cartridge.
I would just make sure the female thread that the bolt goes into isn’t bad at all than just put a close enough size bolt back in. Possibly with some lock tight.
Love your videos,I have a truck has coolant in fuel and fuel in coolant ,I did replace the injector cups O rings and injector seal and all the fuel lines , all the fuel filters did oil change add new coolant in , and after I start the truck still has coolant in the filter, been drain out a lot still has has it , I did this job 4 years ago , but I don’t remember how much coolant I have to drain out after all the work done, do you have any idea with it? Please let me know🙏🙏🙏
Always Appreciate that positive feedback. These trucks take 13 gall of coolant so if you have fuel in coolant than you deff have to drain everything and than run restore flush through the system to clean everything. If you dont you will be left with residual and it will appear as if its contaminated again. Hope that helps.
Thanks for reaching out. Unfortunately I do not have a shop of my own or one I could mention on here but I appreciate your support In watching and I’m here for any questions you may have. Stay safe out there.
