Just finished switching one out on a Western Star. Took the front wheel and step off to make enough room to get in there. After zip tying some air lines out of the way, the job was better. Still pretty tight. Needed a mirror to see the back bolt and nut. Your video really helped me prepare. Thank you!
Wha a great tutorial video, I’ve seen couple other videos about this but, you having the engine out of chassis make it more easy to see details and for you to explain things better. Thank you for sharing your knowledge God bless you and thank you again.
I like do way you work brother, very detailed!! I wish we have mechanics on those truck stop and dealers like you! Unfortunately not! I m tired to deal whit apprentice who just get out the school!!
Your video on point. Couple tips...useing small flash light you can see that last T30 bolt..i changed to different tool thought was T30 and it wasnt so got kinda nervous went back to T30 and taped with thr side of a hammer to sit in bolt cause stripped a little. I used small flat head screw driver to pop the tabs. The bottom 18mm was toughest. Used 3/8 socket with small wobble head extension from the inside of the fuel lines and stuck longer extension in between the still connected fuel lines and left it there till was ready to put back on. Thanks Video was a huge help.
You made Such a great, informative, professional video. Very detailed. You helped me and many more truckers. God bless you .Take care. Please keep teaching us.
I was able to replace one on my Vanhool tx dd13 did everything you did and prime my coach change the fuel lines o’rings. Now my surging went away and also my rough idle. Thank you
Just did mine on a 3 filter system. I had to take off that part of the fuel pump that that sits under the fuel quantity valve to completely move the bracket to get to that back screw on the valve. Definitely need the right tools. Very tight hard to work in area. I put it back together in a fraction of the time it took to remove.
@@notkirill6991 I changed mine because it had a constant lope type surge while it idled. That's the best way I can describe it. It started and drove like normal though.
@@spencerwillis7578 I’m having this issue too, but when it’s cold I get a bit of a delay on throttle response in 9&10 gear. Did that happen with your truck as well?
@@cesarvelasquez9436 I did this repair in a truck that I had a driver in so I don't know for sure because I didn't drive it regularly but he never mentioned this issue to me.
Have you ever had a fuel filter housing leak coolant internally? I changed injector cup seals on a dd13 but fuel filter housing is still filling up with fuel.
I have a 2014 freightliner Cascadia with a Detroit DD 15, and I do not have those hoses that you just connected in order to get to the valve, are you familiar with that or no why?
I had a really bad idle problem and I was thinking on replacing that part but before you can clean the inner fuel connector on water separator there is a white plastic bypass that mine was clogged with silicone or paper. Did that and my problems are completely gone!!
DETROIT REBUILD SPECIALIST I have a DD15 2015 whit 545000 miles I need to get the over head valve adjust maybe some day I will have the opportunity to stop by for you do that for me !!
Would the quantity control value if leaking internally throw a code for pressure limiting valve? I am kind of new at DDS and have been struggling with one tractor that keeps throwing a high pressure leakage code, with no external leaks.
If a driver has mechanical knowledge , he can save a fortune. I know a guy who owned a 10 year old volva 2 million kms plus, and it ran very well and ran without issues for a year
Hi, Truck truck with dd15 cranks no starts, fault spn 157 Fmi16. Changed fuel filter housing, and HP fuel pump , still same code and no starting. And advise please
Hi my name for you I have a shop in Brookfield. I have a problem for DD 15 lost a prime and want to talk to you about this more. Maybe give me a little information please thank you.
I paid a shop in Wisconsin a lot of money to change this part and it still makes the surge sound afterwards. The owner’s response was sorry bud must have been a bad remanufactured valve. and then didn’t offer to fix it again. And my engine still sounds like s***
Ok but seriously why does a fuel quantity valve give out? And will it cause major damage to the engine if left for an extended period of time? Say like 6 months with a looping idle
Most of this is completely unnecessary. Just take fuel line bolt out. Pull out by hand, drain coolant, remove bracket, remove regulator and go in reverse.
Call me anal but I would continually clean as I went with brake clean fluid and I would make a plastic bung that goes in opening before I did any surface cleaning then after cleaning again with brake clean I would remove bung to drag any contamination out with it, my though is to have a bung with a little handle in centre and made to take old oring so when it's removed it wipes the bore clean, see told you I'm anal or OCD whatever
Hi Casey, I have idle stumbling problem with Detroit 60 series 12.7L 2003. RPM goes up and down in low idle but it is fine with fast idle. Does Detroit 60 series comes with the quantity control valve?
