Good job it will work.I reuse the ear pinching clamps(using a long sized just right flat blade screwdriver)It spreads it open just right.The tie rod measurement (depth gauge) Because not all tie rods are not the same length.I don't crimp the ends because striking it could damage the rack seals.Outer tie rod end castle nut on a aluminum knuckle should have a washer.This just what I have been doing. 20+yrs of experience.For what it's worth I hope it helps doing it faster.
Hi. The service manual says to hold the rack on the flats while loosening the inner tie rod to prevent rack damage. I didn't see you do that here. Did you not need to?
For me the most complicated part of that project is to free the Inner TR clamp. I removed it somehow on the passenger side, but seems like even less room on the driver side. You mentioned you used a side cutters. May I know exactly what they were, probably eclipse side cutters. Thank you for the informative film.
Same here. I just used a flathead to pry it loose. The clamp design is "pinched" so freeing it up wasnt to crazy. The clamp has a connector that the flathead fit into for prying. Just have to feel around for it.
Thanks for post. Ive been fighting to get the stupid flippin boot back on for an hour now and I feel like lighting the car on fire. I got a new boot, used axle grease, it's too tight so it doesnt just plop on like yours did. Did you reuse old boot?
Good! Vid. Matts. Only one question. What happen if you don't put loctite to the joint? And could you tell me what is the loctite number in order to buy it. Thank you very much in advance. Sorry! I made two questions
Thanks! Actually the service procedure for this vehicle didn't require loctite. I put the loctite on the threads because the procedure says to bend the lip of the new joint into the flats on the steering rack to prevent it from getting loose. It was too tight in there to get the top lip, so as a precaution I used the loctite. You can get loctite at any auto parts store. Just make sure to get the BLUE kind. If you dont bend the lips or put loctite, you run the risk of the joint getting loose.
Very good video, the peen on my inner tie rods (2008 grand prix) was so hard that it wouldn't come off with a 900 ft-lb impact wrench. I am going to try grinding the peens with a dremel to weaken the material in that area.
Man im struggling to undent the outer tie rod flange on a 2000 Chevy Malibu. How can i undent it? Im surprised your vehicle doesnt have it preventing tie rod Removal. No space to Get anyhting in there to undent where its screwed in at on top AND bottom. Thought this was going to be a 1 hour project but this has turned into an all day project with no success. What the fuck GM?
If you absolutely cannot undent the flange, it still SHOULD come off if you turn hard enough with the tool. I haven't done this much so I don't know if it will damage the threads or not. I think it should be ok.
Do you know exactly what size tie rod adapter is needed to grip the inner rod bolt? Kept frigin wondering why one of the adapters fit firmly but just kept spinning around the tie rod bolt..... Only to find both metal parts punched down.. Totally inaccessible and my thinnest screwdriver cant even fit underneath it to pry it off. Id rather not remove the whole rack just to do this job if it can be helped. ANY OTHER WAY COMES TO MIND? Also, i meant INNER tie rod not OUTER
@@donnyten2041 1-7/16 was the stock size for me, I am having same issue undenting the peen. I am going to try grinding the peen with a dremel to weaken the material. What did you do?
![Replacing an Inner Tie Rod End [1999 Pontiac Grand Prix]](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
