Today I replace the broken half axle on my Land Rover Series III. Don't forget to visit my website for more updates: www.thisweekwithcars.com This Week With Cars - Episode 0323 #landrover #series #classiccars
Really cool stuff. Well designed for easy servicing is what makes these old Series trucks so long lived. Glad she’s back on the regular rotation of useable vehicles.
Great video and really nice example of a Series III. I love to see this kind of thing and appreciate the design and engineering that went into these vehicles. The fact that not only can you replace such items with minimal tools but also that they are designed to still drive out of a situation using FWD really shows the thought that went into these vehicles.
Owned my series 3 since 1982, can remember 2 broken halfshafts and blown up rear diff in that time. never leave home without the special 9/16 socket to help get the rear prop shaft off, so you can drive home on the front axle. Any land rover tips are good to see.
Great Video. I don't have any of the cars that you work on, but your videos really help me understand how to work on my 73 beetle and 69 chevy stepside! Just seeing how you take off parts and the tools you use is great!
After 50+ years of Landrover maintenance I can confirm almost ALL jobs are this simple and fixable with a moderate quantity of what we in the UK call 'Imperial' size spanners and sockets. Only thing I would add to this very good video would be mark both flanges of ANY propeller shaft BEFORE dissassembly, if they ran well before you do your work, don't risk the balance gods displeasure! I believe you call prop shafts something else for some unfathomable reason?
It has been many years since I did a job like that though not on a Land Rover. You said, quite rightly that you could do such a repair 'in the bush'. I think that is why the Land Rover was (and still is) so popular in places like Africa. They often even call the people who do the work 'bush mechanics' and if they can't quite reach the problem they will dig a hole and roll the vehicle over it. (that is a first hand account from a friend from Africa just in case someone thinks I made it up!) Interesting video Steve thank you. 👍👍
Drain the diff first next time. Lol. You did not need to pull the diff, a long piece of flattened rebar you can pound it out into axle housing from the diff and a long magnet will pull it out easily. That being said, I upgraded to GBR axles a couple decades ago and have not broken them yet. And please use the side of a 9/16th wrench (maybe it’s a 1/2in, I forget it’s been so long) on the drain plugs rather than a flathead. She is a tractor, not a TVR. ;-) PS love your channel. Sorry to sound preachy, you know much more about many more vehicles than I.
On UK cars pre 2000 you can tell where they were originally registered from the second and third letters of the group of 3. In your case JD is London. The letter on its own tells you the year of registration K being aug 71 to July 72.
I once managed to break the axle on an Austin A-35 van. Considering the probable power output of an old, tired A-series, the axle must have been made of something like pot metal. :-)*
I run this axel on my 58’ because it is easier to fix :o) (should be semi floating) I’ve never used sealer on the diff gasket because ironically it is actually a decent machined surface. Everything else needs sealer, especially the swivel seals :D
I love the series 3. I have a '72 109. I'm in the middle of refreshing the brakes. I've done the master cylinder and the front slave cylinders a couple of years ago, but not tackled the rear yet. Any tips would be appreciated!
It’s a simple and relatively easy replacement, but I wonder why they are so prone to break? I recently met a couple at a British car meet, who snapped an axle just pulling out of their driveway in their 88” series 3. Fatigue I guess?🧐
Very good mate. Good job done. One thing I would have done differently is greasing the caps at the end. Don’t fill them completely up with grease but the nut and the pin are a greasing point and are meant to be greased Good job non the less. Could I have a link to where you got a replacement half axel? Please. Many thanks
Besides providing more grease to be flung out all over the wheels can you provide a logic behind putting grease in the cap? The Nut and pin don't do anything, so is is just rust prevention? The felt seals usually weep enough gear lube to keep them from rusting.
I broke a shaft just the same pulling away from a junction, had to put it 4wd to get home, I pulled the shaft and managed to extract the broken off inch or so using a magnet on a stick, all the way out to where I could grab it with a finger and thumb, then it slipped from my grasp and I heard it roll all the way down the axle tube and drop into the diff housing 😢 oh how I laughed
As that is a right hand drive vehicle with a British registration number, please use the correct English terms when referring to mechanical parts.... they are NOT cotter pins, those are round pins, threaded on one end with a tapered flat section machined into them, what you used on those half shafts were SPLIT PINS.... because they are pins... that split. 😉 Great video Steve, you have a car there that many a trendy owner would love to have over here in the UK.... The farmers? They have mostly Toyota, Mitsubishi and Ford Ranger pickups these days.
Oh what are you on about? Different things have different names all over the world. Don't be such a xenophobic prude and try to learn something new for once in your life.
