As an old school RC racer I thought I would add one sanity saving tip about dealing with evil c-clips and e-clips. Get yourself a bag and place the motor in the bag when removing and replacing the clip. A gallon ziploc will let you easily get your hands in to work on it. This way you don't fire the clip off into oblivion.
When choosing a bolt, make sure you get a metric bolt that is the same thickness as your motor shaft. For example my shaft was 3mm thick so the bolt I used was a M3 metric bolt. The length of the bolt will depend on your motor. For most 2204 to 2206 motors the length will be either a M3x30, 35, or 40mm bolt or M4x30, 35, or 40mm.
I work as a mechanic and teach as well and I use this method on a daily basis. I use old bearings to protect new bearings, and I use old seals to protect new seals during installation. Thanks!
Awesome tip, also the first time I have seen a motor taken apart and it was much less daunting than I had expected so thanks for going through the entire process as well.
I want to say thank you, thank you and thank you for your genious tip. I had to change the bearings in my LRP x22 motor and I did not have a real bearing tool for it. LRP once had a special tool for their X22 motors but not anymore. I did not want to take a chance and spend 300-350 Swedish kronor either on a "universal" bearing tool that may not even fit on LRP motors anyway. I did what you did instead and used a right size bult(M4) and nut with some shims and used the old beraings not push them in place. Worked like a charm 👍😀!!
Ha. This video is how I found your old channel. I was killing cobra motors motors left and right, but didn't want to buy a gigantic drill press. Your video was the top result for how to fix a motor without a drill press. 🤗 These are your bread & butter. The JC niche.
Thanks. I try to cover what everyone else doesn't. That way everyone isn't watching the same videos. Well that and I love saving money. This hobby is too expensive. I pinch pennies anytime I can.
Ive recently developed interest inbmechatronic and Ive learned a lot from this video on how BLDC motor works. Thank you for sharing this knowledge JC, RIP and may god repay you. also I came across Samm Sheperd channel yesterday and learned he also died in motorbike crash, I lost two gurus in 2 days :( Ride safe guys!
This is a very informative video. I think JC forgot to put the spacer back in the middle, but no matter. Very sorry to discover that this really nice, humble guy has passed away. I reckon his friends and family were lucky to have known him. Respect.
Good method, especially the installation... Simple and on point, I was an apprentice mechanic years ago I've built a couple of cars and sometimes creating the tools needed is the high point of the day.
It was hard for me to watch this. Another help full video from JC to help me solve a issue with burned out bearings. Just watching this saddens me knowing you are gone. Your legacy will live on with all the videos you produced RIP.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge I had my motor bearing removed just like you did before watching your video but its been months I have not get the new bearing in because I did not figure out how to safely "push" them back in squarely. Now I know what can do thank you so much.
Awesome video! I was wondering what it would take to replace a motor bearing the other day since I have not done it yet and then I see this in my subscription list. Thanks man!
JC your information you put out in these videos is beyond any FPV drone RU-vidr I've watched. But here might be a topic for you to make a video about: the Turnigy Evolution how do I put it into DRL simulators and make the program run with the Turnigy Evolution? I know you have made a video about this for the tiranis so could you make one for the evo to make more clear to use
To clean the between the magnets I use Blu-tack. It's great for getting out magnetic rich dirt. Just use a tooth pick to push the Blu-tak between the magnets.
Have you ever tried a thrust bearing on the bottom of a quad copter motor? I tried it, i fumbled across a perfect size one, and tried it, but i am wondering if it is better or worse? As with standard roller bearings, the force from the prop is pulling on the lower bearing, and so I guess, must be creating major forces in the wrong direction , that the bearing is meant to have forces applied to. With the thrust, it is having force applied where it is designed to be applied, I ran it for a week or so, and all seemed ok, but i swapped it out, as I dont know all the specifics for forces and friction and stuff like that. Anyway, just thought I'd ask, as I have never heard of it being done. Great info here by you again, thanks.
Are front bearing and rear bearings the same? Like if you have 2 of the same motors, can you take the rear berrings out of one and use them in the front of the other?
yep look good in my eyes I would make the tools a little better, so the inbus is not my way, but would find a nice axis .. and then use it in your way. I would also take a wooden blok to make the engine there neatly in a corner .. that it does not slide away ..( 2 pins in it?? so klik/ hanging the engine on it ) otherwise there is nothing wrong with the way you work .. I would take a slightly lighter hammer .( a toy hammer ). but then you can only work when you have the bobbin and pen .. you can work pretty precisely gr and thank you good work falcon ! !!
My shaft on my wahl clippers has mucho play in it? Bearings? Thanks. Just scrolled and seen you have gone on, thanks for the video anyway. Hope your with God
i wonder if some heat on the motor and the bearings in the fridge for half an hour would let them drop into place just with finger pressure? i'm still scratching my head looking at one of those closed e-clips.... i should probably just buy some then all i have to figure out is putting them on which is probably a bit easier... anyway great tips, will save me some money
I am playing with some micro brushless quadcopters (90mm to 100mm) and the 1mm E-clips are vibrating off. They are so small that I use glasses and a magnifying glass to work on them. What would you use to lock the clips onto the shafts? Thanks.
Hello, I had an incident today where my splashdrone planted nose first into the ground, the prop mounting screw was damaged can these be replaced or do I need a new motor, there isn't any visible screw holes like most generic ones on the market but it does look like a seperate piece, please welpppp
Hi! I know this vid is old.. but im reaching out to get some advice on the dys se2205 motor/racerstar rs2205.. The bolt in the bottom are glued on these motors with locktight. Less than half of my motors ive been able to loosen up those damn bolts. On the ones ive had trouble with ive tested about everything. Ive used a soldering iron to heat the bolt to sort of trying to melt the locktight.. with absolutely no luck. On some motors ive had.. theres been to much lovktight that the motors hasnt spun as freeley as other motors. Ive basicly ruined a few motor bolts by trying to get them loose. And in crash if i had got dirt in them i cant get the bell of. Any idea what i did miss on the solder iron method?
I got a couple of those Cobras, but I think they are grounding out. When I use them on good ESC's they start to Tremble and not work correctly. Any suggestions on how to fix possible Motor Grounding out? Another test I did was to check continuity between each wire which was good but then I checked from any wire to the bell housing and I was getting continuity(saw a youtube video on it)...which in the video it stated that the motor is grounding out. Any advice besides tossing the motors?
Only other thing I can think of is make sure that your motor bolts are not too long. On these motors the copper coils are very close to the bolt holes, especially over one specific hole. If a bolt on that one hole is touching the coils then it will make the motors act weird. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--tp7UD0a9dg.html
Project Blue Falcon Yeah already did that. I actually didn't mount them on a frame (just for testing) and they were still acting up. I may try to rewound them with new shielded copper wiring. I could toss them but it's just damn shame.
All depends on how often you fly. Kind of like how dirt bikes and jet skis show hours the motor was used instead of miles driven. I fly all the time, weekdays and weekends so I change mine about every 2 to 3 months. Where some people never have to change them. It also depends on the quality of the bearing. Like I said they are either ceramic or steel but they are manufactured different. The Racerstar motors on Banggood are $27 for 4 motors where the T-Motors I use are $25 a piece. With cheaper motors you usually have to change them more often, unless you upgrade to a better bearing like a T-Motor bearing.
Project Blue Falcon that is the perfect information I wanted to know. Sorry I am new to the hobby and any little bit of info is much appreciated. My first build are going to have Racestar 2205 2600kv motors so that's good to know 😀
How tight is that screw supposed to be ? I killed one of my motors by over tightening the bottom screw. The next one I only nipped and that one is over heating too :(
