you have to remove the front of the original tumbler because the guts come out from the front on the original one , then you can pull each waffle tumbler out one by one and the numbers are stamped on them
If you purchase the Ford Motorcraft kit #SW-6991, the instructions are incorrect. Omit station 2 instead of 1 in step 2 and step 4. Also, skip steps 9, 11-15. The use of calipers are exact when determining the cut depth for the key code as well as for identifying the station number. When installing the tumblers, tilt the tumbler toward the tumbler spring and slightly compress the spring as its inserted. This will help it seat more easily.
Anyone trying to do this and you don't have that slot that allows it to slide out the back ,the tumbler will come out the front. To do it you can stick in the key 1/3 way and from the back if you got the special tool use that but if you don't you can use a small flat head screw driver from the back to push the wafers down while turning the key to the start position. Once the tumbler/key turns remove the key and turn the tumbler all the way to the start or max position and the tumbler will come out with the silver top key slot piece from the front. Won't come out if the key is in ,that is why you only stick it in 1/3 way and rake the wafers from the back to turn the cylinder and remove the key. The silver front piece is what holds it all in and it has two slots that have to line up for it to be removed.
I got 'er done. ! But on the Motorcraft cylinder kit, my tumblers did Not slide in with the springs easy or at all, until I filed the small teeth on bottom of All of them. The teeth grabbed the spring bottom stopping then insertion. Filed, Then easy going on this project. You'll see small teeth on spring side. Thanks for this Info on doing this procedure.
This is a great video by the way. I have the opposite problem with my Ford. I get the door chime (and other electronics stay on which kills the battery) even after I remove my key. I’m wondering if this will fix my issue as well.
Way too much trouble. I just zip tied old key to the plug in responder and hid it under dash. New key and ignition work perfectly. My car is 21 years old and i've gotten more than enough life out of it. If someone steals it, oh! well They can fix the other issues soon to come.
Dorman is of questionable quality. I have had some of their stuff that is ok, and other that was horrible. Locksmiths will carry the OEM or a quality aftermarket replacement that can be coded to match properly. Always have a locksmith cut fresh keys by CODE, as the issue with these locks often is from worn keys, contributing to a seized lock. DEALERS generally only can deal with 8-10 year old or newer vin numbers for a key code. Dealer ones are also ok, but for a long time, they were selling a poor version, and once exhausted, they switched to an improved design. Locksmiths typically will decode the worn key, then input the result in a database of Ford codes to verify that it is a valid bitting, and to supply the real code number to client. A BIG WIN for the consumer.
That is step one to trashing out your vehicle. No catalytic converter, a milk crate for a passenger seat, vice grips as window cranks, rear differential full of sawdust to quiet it down, wood screws in the battery terminals, and a broken broomstick as a hood prop! lol
