Here are the products I used to do this: Seal kit: amzn.to/35lonnc MT0006 Pin wrench (Individual tool): amzn.to/3hlcznv Trim/Tilt pin wrench set (Universal set): amzn.to/3pdIT00 (Links on this channel may be affiliate links, which earn me a small commission for referring you to a product, it doesn't cost you a penny, and helps me keep making these videos)
Thank you for the video. I had a hell of a time putting those seals in from the bottom as I have twins. I eventually tried installing from the top and all four popped in much easier in minutes.
Just a pair of retaining clip pliers and you can remove the pin that holds the tilt piston to the engine, then you can run it up and down without needing to move the engine. you won't have the engine weight to force it down but it will move down.
Looks like you put the center preasure seal in upside down, also it is helpful to mention, that after much frustration. i found that these caps have been retro fitted, there is no longer an inner preasure and outer dust seal, they are now sending a new cap with just one seal that you have to hammer inn there with a propper size socket and hammer, and insert the metal clip. It ius much easier way, but unfortunatly caused me so much confussion, cause if you order just the seals and try and use the old caps it will not work, so if your cap still uses an inner and outer seal, you need to order new caps.
That is very bizarre about the new caps. I have not seen anything like that yet. I'm certain I got the pressure seal (center) in the right way around, I may have flipped the cap over in the vice in the video or something, but I know I discussed which way it needs to face.
@@trythistv So now I am really confused. Which hay do the lips of the center seal go into the cap up or down? I was always told the lips go to the atmosphere? Can you clarify
@@marcedelman7398 every seal I've ever seen to hold pressure has the closed side of the U shape they generally have facing away from the pressure. The reasoning I was told is that when pressure is built, the pressure will press the sides of that U apart, giving a greater sealing capacity. Looking at the seal, the open side of the U flares out on the ends of the open side, which should be facing the pressure, otherwise the pressure would collapse the seal inward and leak. See Fig 2. on this site: sarum-hydraulics.co.uk/uncategorised/installation-instructions-piston-rod-bearing-u-seal/
Why wouldn’t you replace all the seals while you’ve got it apart though? And what’s up with that cowling? You must be getting a lot of water inside that engine bay. 😐
This was a work boat, it sees a tremendous amount of abuse, thus the cowling. As far as replacing the seals, the main goal was to stop oil leaking into the lake for as minimal cost as possible. all the other seals were not leaking, and the tilt/trim is still working great. 9/10 times these seals are the only ones that fail, at least in the freshwater lake I'm on, the piston seals are a much more robust teflon type seal rather than a rubber lip seal that will crack with heat and age or get scored easily by debris.
