I really think it's great that you take care of business like you do. Totally fearless. I can't honestly criticize you. I mean you're doing it...I'm just watching. But when you spun that injector into the new head with an impact gun, then grabbed the old studs with a couple of vise grips and then reused them, it made the hair on the back of my neck stand up on end. And, of course, everything ended up working out fine. Perfect is the enemy of good. You're channel is proof and i'm glad you share this stuff. Helps me to be more confident I can handle fixing my stuff.
Bush techs are the most valuable commodity ever... they take the least and produce tremendous results!! In this situation our friend “Camerata” here (spell ck. On that name Andrew) is not only ambitious enough to fix something when it breaks his tenacity to complete the job only exceeds! I know there are plenty of jokes about that ‘80’s show McGuyver and frankly a lot of those staged situations were kind of hokey.. but when you are faced with an issue, you use what’s in your means to come up with the best results... of Note Andrew... there is never any reasonable excuse to use an adjustable wrench when tightening hardware... however that being said there are a million other uses for it maybe not first imagined by its inventor and for sake of your own skills and achievements I’m gonna have to keep my heartfelt opinions to myself!!
Hi Andrew, I'd like to offer you one piece of advice from somebody who routinely works on engines; I would avoid using the wire wheel on the grinder, to clean the head gasket surface. Yes its fast and efficient, but those wires have a habit of getting loose! If one of these ends up in an oil passage, it could inflict MAYOR damage to your engine. All due to a small piece of wire. So it's false economy trying to save a bit of time doing it that way. I'd recommend a gasket scraper. And I would also plug all the oil passages before you do it, so that as little dirt as possible can drop into the cases.
I agree with above , never ever use a wire wheel on a block , what’s worse that getting it in an oil passage is a small piece gets down between the piston and cylinder , been there done that, cost us a few thousand bucks
I use a 3M 2 inch abrasive organic pad on a right angle air grinder. www.ebay.com/itm/20-2-inch-3m-roloc-course-sanding-pads/192679508527?hash=item2cdc97fa2f:g:3uUAAOSwLEtYlQsL
Next episode after Area 51 special "Alright guys... so.. , after the UFO engine rebuild we did... I have these extra parts that weren't really needed... I mean... it runs WAY better without them... I'm not sure why the UFO manufactures don't use better parts, these are junk... anyway... running much better now"
"OK so the warp drive runs good, I'm finished what I was asked to do, so let's go do something else." *ending shot with a go-pro tied to the UFO, reaching the moon in 15 seconds before returning to film a panoramic shot of upstate New York*
Good fix Andrew. It sounds like you figured it out. There are tests kits you can use to check for combustion gases in the coolant. Keep that in mind for next time. Its good to see an owner repair their own equipment instead of sending it out
Khadijah Brown .....i agree. My wife has always been very supportive of what I do. She will get dinner ready, then an hour later may be in the shop helping pull apart something or build something. She has spent many hours by my side helping.
Good work, Just a tip for the future, Use two machine nuts when removing the intake and exhaust manifold studs, vices grips can disfigure and chew up threads. Put the one nut on then thread the second on tighten both together wrench the bottom nut and the it will come loose. Just another option.
I agree with you on the stud removal method! Also,you should have considered NEW head bolts. The old ones may have stretched beyond their limit,especially since the engine overheated. Please continue,you are doing fine.
@@erictrace That kinda shook me too. I was always taught to start in the middle and work toward the ends alternating sides in a crisscross pattern. I guess he might get away with starting at one end and going to the other since it is a small engine. Time will tell.
@@davidmorse8432 is it really necessary though. I understand the thinking behind it but does it have any real world backing. Just curious because I know there are many rules like this for any number of applications that some like Andrew are either unaware of or dont feel are warranted and seem to get by without them.
I was looking for a channel in English to try and improve my language. I'm Italian, I'm interested in everything that has to do with mechanics and do it yourself. I found an excellent channel. I'll give you my biggest compliments, keep it up
I am dismantling 2 Kubota D1105 engines that had low compression and they had the same cracks in the combustion chamber caps. They both had cracks from the port and I took them to the Kubota dealership and engine rebuilder machine shop. They both said that there is no reason to worry about small cracks in the caps because they in no way affect the integrity of the head itself and they won't crack through to the coolant so you are good to go. Those caps can be removed and pressed back in by a machine shop so you could have just replaced them. Does anyone else have comments about the caps cracking being a problem? I would like to hear your explanation as to why they would be a problem.
I’m sitting here by myself and found myself saying, “You are the man!” when she finally fired up! I need to do this job on my skid steer, but haven’t taken the time to figure out how to do it. Your contribution to the community has moved me 90% of the way there! Thank you!
@AstronomyToday Yeah..no doubt.. It happened to me.... I was building houses, running my own crew.. Had my shack house and diesel truck paid for... Tool trailers, shed full of quads and dirt bikes........ I told her to make sure she stayed on the pill...... Then one day I ask about the pills and she says. "oh, I've been out for a week now" ??? WHAT BITCH... lol. so she spit out some kids, we've been together for 8 years now.... But I still feel like I got screwed out of my life goals... I was going places.... I had a few lots bought, ready to build my own buildings on... I had 30k cash in my safe... ect. ect. ......... 8 years later.. its all gone.. My kids are great, but I can't say I'm happy about being tricked.
True, if you keep bugging the woman they get irritated and want you to stop, when you stop for awhile they text you to see what you are doing and if you don't answer they get mad. Lol
Ok look at the video date she is there helping him...and now years later...where did Andrew go wrong ?...she is gone...They could not work it out sadly it seems...
Great job on that head swap. I always use new head bolts because the stretch in the bolt gets used up over time and will allow a head gasket to fail, and they are inexpensive compared to their importance.
Another thing to watch for on older radiators is core fin separation. The find will deteriorat and heat won't be transferred from the tube to the fin. It usually starts in the corners where dirt and moisture have accumulated.
Hi Andrew always torque your head down in the correct sequence also taking it off in the correct sequence otherwise you risk warping the head great video
The cracks on the pre combustion chambers are quite common on indirect diesel injection engines. It's ,most of the time ,not a problem,and you can still use the head,like is,or change them. A straight edge for machinist would be a good investment for you , 100 $ spent on it could save you a lot on your equipment,like the head's cost here. As i know,cast iron heads do not warp that easily as it could be thought,contrary to aluminium ones. I suggest you strongly to protect the cylinders when you use the wire wheel, you can see a lot of debris going in the cylinders,and it's not good. Starting fluid is not good on a 22/1 compression ratio engine : to start up correctly,loosen the injectors steel lines,cranck the engine,when it's squirting out of the lines tighten them. Good work on the machine : ) Cool to watch.
Thank you for the very good advice. Yeah I agree that head is probably fine. I'll keep/try to sell it. I did blow them with air after, but ill try to just use a scraper next time. In the past, that machine usually needed starting fluid to start. Maybe now that its charging properly (it wasn't charging at all before, than I ran a hot wire to the field on the alternator and it was overcharging for a while) it will start without it. Ill let my friend know about that engine too.
Indirect diesel engines need glow plugs to start correctly within the second you cranck it. If not,that mean the valves are not adjusted properly,and it's mostly on cold weather,(you did it)or the compression is very low,or the injectors lines are leaking,or the pump itself leak and needs to prime itself again each time you cranck it.(does it smell diesel around the engine ?) Most of the time it's just the glow plugs wich do not work anymore,or the relay feeding them. The glowplugs consume about 10 to 15 amps each,so you should see 40 to 60 amps being sucked by the common feed wire. You can tell the owner that using starting fluid is a very bad idea,and it's just making things worse by damaging the piston rings and creating huge pressure in the cylinder,and not solving the root problem.
You can't use abrasive discs on engine heads or blocks. You damage the surfaces,and you can cause leaks,specially with multi layers steel head gaskets wich are not as soft as composite material head gaskets,wich can fill up depressions on surfaces. You are supposed to use a scraper and some cloth with a cleaner. abrasive on power tools are a very bad idea,it's asking for troubles. it's done at the dealership to go quick,but it's a wack job.
Wire wheels made of soft steel (mostly galvanised) are softer than cast iron,so it's "ok" on the block or cast iron heads,not on the AL heads. Abrasive wheels on a 80 cm long 6 cylinders diesel AL head with 5/100 of mm of max warpage diagonally is just suicidal with a multi layer steel gasket. wich straight edge did you buy ? What class is it on precision ?
I was always under the impression its a cardinal sin to use a wire brush on your heads, especially as a power attachment... Anyways, I had to rebuild the top end of my ranger here recently... on tightening down the cylinder heads, the manufacturer was real specific on how to do it. I hope this last you awhile. Thanks for sharing.
Nice work. Nice find on the voltage reg too. You mention early on there is no thermostat in it. Surprisingly, you might find it maintains temps better with a thermostat - by controlling flow will control "linger time" of the coolant in the radiator. The longer the coolant lingers in the radiator, the cooler it gets.
if you ever need to cold start a tired diesel, use a peice of burning cardboard to load hot air into the intake ( I have used a hot air gun too) works especially well in snowy conditions.
Andrew, You have 85,000 people tell you not use a wire brush on machined surfaces yet you still have the best videos on RU-vid. I learn from both you and your experts that are helping you grow.
Always enjoy watching you work and the comments many of your older fans contribute. Thanks. Sort of nice that you could remember where all the parts go.
you used 2 vise grips to pull studs, try 2 nuts, jam them together then unscrew the bottom 1 or both together with your impact if it fits socket. You don't mess up threads that way.
Talk about trouble shooting and going through every possible problem area and following through.To come up with the possible problems of over heating! Thank you for making and sharing this video! Saving untold $1000.00 .Can you imagine a dealer going through all those system's and what the cost would have been in man hrs. & parts!Glad you able to come up with a solution! Hook the heater hose back up to allow the antifreeze to circulate through the hole system decrease the heat level! Plus a new cracked head! Head gasket....heat gage...
Hey will you do a video how you got into mechanics ? You know so much about fixing about everything you lay your hands on. Itll be cool to know your history of how things really got started. Thank you !
From watching his videos I'd say he is teaching himself and give bad advise to others unless the alternator is locked up stopping the drive belt .thats not causing a heat problem. And the air fins were like that before the temp.problem.
hey man love the videos.. especially the pups. i saw you use vice grips on the exaust studs out. we always used to out two nuts back to back on the stud the back out the bottom one and it would bring it all out... the vice grips didnt mess it up it just gives more leverage just food for thought.... either way brother keep it up
Andrew how lucky you are..... having all the good toys and on top of all that having a cool lady to help you with the head, and drinking a brew from the bottle, it don't get no better than that.
People think running a machine without a thermostat is the right thing to do. The thermostat slows down the flow of water in the engine so the water can absorb heat. I have drilled a small hole in a thermostat as a bypass instead of removing it and this will do the trick to allow flow even if the thermostat is closed. also, do not start on one end of a head tightening the bolts work from the center out bumping up the torque after each pass around the head. I am proud to see a young man that isn't scared to tackle hard jobs and learn from his mistakes. keep making great videos. And I also agree on double nuts on the head bolts for removal.
You did well on the repair. From a mechanic since the late 60's, you might want to put the proper thermostat back in it. It will warm up faster and may run cooler. Without a thermostat the coolant can circulate so fast that heat transfer is impeded. So coolant temps stay cool wile cylinder and head temps are hot. You wouldn't dare run a high performance diesel or gas, or a modern computer engine without one. The early idi non turbo engines could do it just like the old chevy 235 six but they were very low output engines. Just something to think about.
"Without a thermostat the coolant can circulate so fast that heat transfer is impeded." Unless there is a shortcut (as it seems like he had one) around the radiator... no, that can not lower the heat transfer. Its the other way around, it increses heat transfer. In serveral ways: It maintains a high temperature difference from radiator to ambient, thus maximum heat transfer. It also results in a higher (=better) heat transfer coefficient from coolant to radiator due to the faster flow (more turbulence, thinner boundary layer).
@@leocurious9919 i have a question. if the coolant moves quickly through the engine, it will draw lots of heat in short time. but when that fluid passes quickly through the radiator, will it have enough time to liberate that heat? i would expect the engine design and radiator design to be complementary. i would expect them to use a coolant with a certain thermal capacity and with a properly calculated rate of flow. or am i missing something?
@@bashisobsolete.pythonismyn6321 Quicker flow = more temperature differential over all of the area. Heat transfert depends on the temperature difference, area and U-value (Thermal transmittance). Only the area is the same when you have faster or slower flow, both the temperature difference as well as the U-value are better with faster flow. Its kinda like blowing on the soup in the spoon instead of just waiting for it to cool down. You can also take it to the extreme: Slow: The coolant is heat up to 120°C and then cools down to 50°C in the radiator. Fast: It heats up to 95°C and cools to 85°C. Not only is it better for the engine (or whatever) to not have such a variable temperture all over the place, the radiator can remove more heat in the latter case. Lets say ambient temperature is 20°C, to calculate the temperature difference in one value (its changing all the time, but we dont want to calculate 1000 times) we have to use the logarithmic mean temperature difference. This is (delta = d = difference): dT_ln = (dT_A - dT_B) / ln (dT_A / dT_B) slow case: 120-20 = 100°C for dT_A and 50-20=40°C for B. Result: dT_ln = 58°C fast case: 95-20=75°C dT_A and 85-20=65°C dT_B. Result: dT_ln = 70°C Lets say U-value stays the same (it would go up): Heat transfer = Area * U-value * dT_ln The fast case has 20% better heat transfer just from the temperature difference alone. The thinner boundary layer would increase the U-value and thus it would be >20%.
When my girlfriend was just 16 years old I got her to help me rebuild a 1966 Chevelle SuperSport ... it was cool car 283 V8, turbo glide 2 speed automatic, mag rims, pioneer 8 track etc ... we mostly did body work and had it painted professionally .. when it was done in September I GAVE her the car so she could drive to high school :) ... we go married 2 years later! :) She was ALWAYS there to help me with projects! ... We did everything together, she gave me 4 kids (I still have three at home) but she got sick and died as a young woman, just 40 something ... that was 5 years ago and I miss her every day :(
Andrew is the real deal, I've seen it time after time. When fixing something he'll say, well we need a new this or need that then the next clip he actually has it. I'd rather fix than toss out and get new.
Hey man a couple of things you should learn is not to use pliers or vice grips on threads. Instead use the 2 nut trick. Also when tightening nuts or bolts when a gasket is involved (especially a head gasket) always tighten in sequence in to out. Middle fasteners and work your way out never go from one end to another. Otherwise very impressive you're really a jack of all trades you impress me with every video. Hats off to you man.
You do things that some may say is not the right way but you still get the job done and it works when something doesn’t go right your also not afraid to show that, you just keep getting it done ! Thanks for the videos
Great job on cylinder head Them cracks on the heads very very common It could have ran 10 yrs like that The other problems you found were your problem of running hot Thank u great vid
Andrew, you really wanted to know, and I think your way of maintenance and in this case preventive maintenance is very useful. It motivates me in other fields to use monitoring and be ahead of failure. It could be a silly waste of time, but if critical values (temperature, load) are met, it is clever. How much you do yourself is a question of how much knowledge and time you want to invest - but you have the right mindset to drill down and to think lateral. Wow!
Diesel head designer by trade: cracks in combustion face are due to overheating, usually never the cause unless you crack through to water jacket and start burning coolant. I wouldn't scrap a head immediately for surface cracks if you can find the cause of the over heating. As you stated, I think the coolant misrouting probably starved the head. Another overheating cause could be blocked air filter or injector/timing issues...but the coolant hose is pretty suspect.
Excellent. Andrew ! ..(technical tenacity)...that’s what I’m going to call it ! I going to say it’s your strongest asset. Always going/doing to learn more and expand on what you already know. In your business...hell, in ANY business....that’s a great trait.
@@wolfman1549 Maybe not readily available, but common sense says start in middle and rotate outwards, at least, that's been the case on all cyl heads I have ever done.
Spannerheads across the world collectively wince as Andrew ignores the tighten-in-a crossover-pattern-from-the-centre rule... and get annoyed when it runs.
This man a Jack of all trades and a MASTER of all, impressive man, very impressive indeed, I am impressed, nothing is hard for him. You're an asset man.
2 things, #1 need to pressure test fluid system with air pump 12-15lbs... Check for leaks. #2 need to flow test radiator's liquid flow by volume... Some could of up stop leak in and the little transfer ports in side radiator are plugged up. As a certified mechanic that would be my guess. And for future note to self, if head gasket is the problem you can test for vaper in the radiator from the combustion or leaking gasket... Just a FYI... COOL the have such good help...
Andrew, also my 2 cents worth as a diesel mechanic with many years experience. Its a good idea to have those injectors tested at he very least, and change the nozzles. With an overheating issue, that heat transfer surrounds the injector nozzles and discolors and distorts the pintle and nozzle mating surface. Seeing how it started and the heaps of black smoke, I suspect that is why. Dribbling injectors and a poor spray pattern is a diesel engine killer
Did you use new head bolts? Unless it's a small engine (lawnmower, etc) they usually tell you to replace the head bolts every time the head comes off. At least that's the way it works with car engines, can't imagine a diesel engine for a skid steer is much different in that regard. Head gasket looks like it's the same kind of technology at least (Multi-Layer Steel gasket).
Andrew, I've gotta tell you, when I saw the impact wrench on that engine, I cried!! Please tell me you had, and referred to the Kubota service manual for this head replacement, or at least sought the advice of a mechanic on this. The cup brush on the mini grinder is also a very un-advised way to remove dirt, UNLESS you're doing a total tear down and clean up before reassembly. Now, I did see that others mentioned this too, those folks had good advice. Have you re-torqued the head in the specified tightening pattern since? One last bit of advice from an 'older' guy and a friend, please PLEASE, don't use that damned starting fluid , now unless Kubota says it's O.K. Man, that stuff can kill your engine real quick! Some engines it's o.k., but a lot of engines, NO, NEVER, NO WAY!! Now, If I have a vote here,...keep that 'buddy' around! She adds a certain 'brightness' to your already good videos!
Reg Sparkes I torqued the head. Do you think I should re torque it? I don't want to do it if it's not necessary because the rockers have to be removed to do it.
Yeah I know, re-torquing can be a pain in the butt, however if the Kubota manual or mechanics suggest it, then I guess you have to. Heating and cooling, heating and cooling may change the compression ( clamping force) on the head gasket, and some , if not most, engines need this done. I'm thinking here Andrew that you perhaps you should check with the folks from where you bought the head for their advice on this. I only know that I had to do this enough times on different engines according to their Shop Manuals. I guess by now, you can see that I'm a great believer in these Manuals, they were an important 'tool' in our shop.
Tip for unscrewing stud bolts. Take a screw and cut it in on one side. The gap allows to press the screw easely together. Screw this onto the stud bolt, you can use pliers to apply pressure to the thread without damaging it.
great job! I thought I heard you say in the video there is no thermostat in the engine? having the correct thermostat will greatly help the radiator cool the antifreeze and in turn keep the motor running at an optimal running temperature. I may have misunderstood you saying that.
How, better for engine in that it warms up faster, yes Keeps it at operating temperature even in cold conditions, yes Runs cooler than without thermostat..... can't see it myself Always run thermostats myself in all gear although have seen plenty of old gear running without a thermostat, can't see how it makes anything run cooler
Yeah there are a lot of people that dont know what they are talking about complimenting him, as if they are worthy of doing any complementing about what they know even LESS about. Humars are strange fucking creatures. Then when you try and give him advice what not to do, they get all hot and bothered as if their golden boy knows best 100% of the time and leaned all he knows from the gods. I like AC because he at least tries and works hard, but a lot of his fanbase are fucking cringy and doing him and the channel a disservice.
If he was presenting this as an instructional video, I would tend to agree with you guys.. but it's just a peek over his shoulder at what he's doing with his own stuff. Plus, this guy routinely shows and admits his mistakes. (He COULD'VE easily edited out the part with the aftermarket head) While you're right that most viewers don't have the skills or tenacity to attempt these jobs, I believe they defend him because he DOES, whether it's by-the-book or not.. I've seen him take advise from more experienced mechanics, there are some in THESE comments.. In all, I just see a guy that's learning as he goes and don't we wish that a larger percentage of 20 or 30-somethings would have the gumption to do the same these days?..
Helping you prep a cylinder head to go back in an engine is a good start. When they talk, act really interested and smile while making eye contact. ( if that don't work, move the work bench to the bedroom ) You did a nice job and it's back in service making you money. Thanks for the video
Andrew next time you are removing the studs, screw 2 hex nuts tight against each other and put the spanner on the bottom one, it will screw straight out without potential thread damage. Keep up good work.
ANDREW IF THAT GAL is not your girl friend you need to change that real fast!!! how many gals do you know that can work on engines and not bitch about getting the hands dirty!!?? Old One Legged Joseph T
Can''t believe there are so many positive comments about this guy. Doesn't use even basic best practice for replacing a cylinder head (which looked like it didn't need replacing)
cringe moment with the vice grips on the stud threads... why not just double nut them and back them out? lol and then the impact on the head studs in no particular order... i wouldnt be surprised if it blows a head gasket out towards the drivers cab
Hello Andrew LOOKs Like You Found A LADY Thar Is Mechanlcally A VERY RARE FIND ??? WISH I COULD FIND ONE ??? Russ Single From Ann Arbor , MIchigan > Maybe Some Day ???
I also enjoy your video's BUT. I think I have it figured out. You actually DON'T speed up your vids. That is your actual speed and occasionally you talk and work very slowly to make us believe that your just like us!!! Great Job. I've got to get an excavator!!!!!
Next time brother before you disassembled the engine, trouble shoot to see what is wrong, in this case should have check the radiator with cap open and run the engine, if you see any bubbles coming into the radiator that means gasket leak, like this many test you can do before disassemble.. that way you may not have to spend unnecessary money, maybe be old head is still good. However it is keep a close eye maybe problem is still not over.
top tip !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! cover or plug all oil passages in the block and use white grease to seal the pistons to the walls and fill cylinders with many rags or paper towels ... then you can clean the deck and remove all the plugs and towels wipe up most of the grease and then use a pick to get the grease from the cyl wall and piston to remove all debris for a 100% sterile rebuild
This was the first time I've watched one of your videos and screamed wtf are you doing in my head. Lol when you were taking the exhaust studs out with vice grips. They make stud pullers you use with a ratchet. Other than that great job man love your channel