Thanks, I didn't plan on getting one either, but I can't pass up a good deal. And it was a bit of a challenge for me. Always curious about diesel engines and this one I could play around with and if I messed it up it wasn't going to be that big of a deal.
@@ResearchDesignBuild tidy engine it has though. What a relief the head and block were good. Takes a lot of effort to make it a how to when it's your first time on that one. Good video.
@@EnglishCharlie Thanks. It was a big relief and to be completely honest a project I put off for almost 2 years because I was worried about what I was going to find and the cost to repair it.
@@EnglishCharlie I think I would have needed to keep a garden hose running into the engine full time to keep it happy. I was even thinking if the engine was shot what I would do and if a Honda K Swap would have been possible, hahaha.
I am changing the cylinder head on a Boncat 773. Although I ordered the cylinder head for the V2003T, it arrived different from the original. After checking carefully, this one is for the Kubota V2003-DI, direct injection. Would it be possible to put this cylinder head in place of the previous one?
I'm not an expert in this area, but a good parts guy should be able to tell you if they are interchangeable. My guess would be that there are some subtle differences. Perhaps a different volume, creating a different compression ratio.
Good job. Have a question, I am doing the same thing right now with a t190 did you happen to follow the Kubota manual,? There is supposed to be an O-ring that goes around the dowel on the right side or front of the head sandwiched between head and block deck. you call that a locating pin but it it is supposed to flow oil through it. Just wondering because I took a gamble and omitted the O-ring .. the head gasket I used was the metal type and didn't think it would be necessary and wasn't included in my gasket set. Haven't started mine up yet keeping my fingers crossed.
I followed the manual and to be honest I didn't see anything in the Bobcat manual I had about that O-Ring, and it didn't even occur to me that it was anything other than an locating pin. I didn't check or look for an O-Ring, so mine might still have been stuck in the head / block. I have it assembled and I'm not burning Oil. So something sealed it I guess. A bit of an oups / oversight on my end I guess, but it has worked out so far.
It's off and out! As you said, not to bad. I had everything disconnected but it still wouldn't come out. Then I remembered you saying something about an alternator bracket. Sure enough, hidden way back, almost impossible to get to was a bracket bolt. Did you use anything like a sealant on the head gasket?
No do not use any sealant on the head gasket it is designed to be sandwiched between two flat clean pieces of metal. The pain in the butt is having to torque it all down, firing it back up and bringing it up to temp. And then having to tear it apart again to re-torque all the bolts. But that is really important and I was amazed and how much the gasket squashed down again after being brought up to temp.
@@ResearchDesignBuild Hoping for one last dumb question. I have it all back together. I had taken out the battery to replace the tray, took the cables off to replace them. Stupid me, didn't take pictures, and now I don't have power. There are two cables for each terminal. The + seems to go to the starter AND a lug above the battery. The - seems to go to the frame near the starter AND a lug above the battery. I am getting power to the
I looked into doing that but after talking to a couple shops that have done a lot of work on these engines they thought a crack in that area would be 1 in a million vs a warped head. And if there was a crack there was also always a warp as well. So I took my chances.
Did the headmaster bled fuelvsystem as shown in your video still no start,pulled all fuel related lines pumped primer bulb fuel came out all lines reeled still no start any ideas
If you leave one line cracked and crank over the engine does it spit diesel? Wondering if the fuel shutoff is activated for some reason. Would allow you to manually prime with the fuel bulb but wouldn't actually pump fuel when trying to start.
It really isn't that bad of a job, I put it off far too long thinking it was a much bigger job. You can probably do it in about 8-10 hours very easily. Let me know if you have any questions and you get into it and I'll try to help out the best I can.
@@ResearchDesignBuild Thank you for your words of encouragement. I have done some engine work in the old days, so with your video, I think I can do it.
@@toadabc The trickiest part was getting the head out and then back into the machine. It's heavy enough to be a royal pain and there isn't a lot of room to work.
@@ResearchDesignBuild Steve, I started on it today and would love to ask some questions, but I am mindful of the old saying "no good deed goes unpunished" and I don't want to waste your time.
@@ResearchDesignBuild ha thanks. It's a weird deal for sure. I think the original head gasket had a larger spot for an oring. The manual called for one but it didn't fit so I left it out and rolled on. We'll find out soon enough if that was a bad idea 😂
The price was right. It seemed like an interesting project. And I knew it would be supper handy to move snow in the winter and move heavy stuff around the garage. It was kind of a no risk purchase, where I sell it at any time and get my money back if I needed. Plus who doesn't want a bobcat.
Do you still have it? Asking because after my first one i never could imagine life without one…. After some years I didn’t have one and tried to tough it out only to find myself buying another one…. With what seems to be like a bad head gasket. Dry coolant and white smoke except mine has a serious loud knock or clanking from the head. So loud that it keeps me puckered while under the hood cause it feels like something’s about to explode lol I’m hoping it’s the valve train and not a piston or remnants of a piston being chewed up. Nonetheless you clear and concise video gives me the confidence needed in tearing it down to find out exactly. Also, your notation of the valve cover hardware having virtually nonexistent tighten-torque makes sense of mine missing a nut. With so much vibration at idle and even more high frequency vibes at full send, I’m actually surprised if there weren’t other maintenance intervals that required retightening the head bolts. Also, I was almost confused a bit as my initial diagnostics pointed toward head gasket but I wasn’t seeing any overheating typically seen in automotive scenarios. It’s easy to forget the massive amount of air the cooling fans move and even with a dry a system it’ll keep it surprisingly cool. Not condoning running your machine without coolant but just a reminder to check coolant , and check it at the radiator and not the overflow bottle, cause just cause it’s not hot on the gauge doesn’t necessarily mean your coolant level of ok or even there at all lol and defin not to rely on overflow bottle to keep the system topped off considering it’s below the rad. Thanks again for the clear, detailed and most important for me CALM video. Many guys in this field are hyper excited perhaps overstimulated on “stimuli” that I’d rather not even speculate but it sure does help to follow you along that you can explain what you’re doing the way you do it. Subbing to your Chan just for that along. Cheers from down yonder/ the armpit of Georgia
