Licensed Floyd Rose no longer holding tuning properly? In this video, I replace the double locking tremolo on a Godin Freeway Floyd with the critically acclaimed Gotoh GE1996T. I paid like $150 CAD for a chrome 40 mm block version. Did this on a budget because I like putting in the work! I spent a ton of time on this project, mainly because it was a learning experience. It would cost way too much money for a shop to do all the modifications. I also levelled, crowned, dressed, and polished the fretboard. Three allen keys are included in the kit: 1.5 mm, 2.5 mm, and 3 mm. 1.5 mm adjusts the arm tension, 2.5 mm is for the saddle position, 3 mm is for securing the strings and locking the nut. 4 mm is a common truss rod size. MODIFICATION STEPS: - Unscrew M6 (or M7 for OFR/FR1000) studs and place small tremolo cavity cover screws in inserts and retighten studs. This will lift the inserts out of the guitar body. Alternatively, use a pry bar with the studs in to pull the inserts completely out. - Redrill insert holes with 7/16" (11.1 mm) bit. Compare old and new insert length. If longer, drill the holes deeper so that string action (playing height at 12th fret) can be maintained. Better to go slightly deeper, as action can be raised with locking studs. Center spacing is 74 mm, ensure plum. - Grind the smooth end off of saddle string set screws. Use an M4 die to repair the thread. With a T15 torx bit on a drill, drive the screws partially in and out of an M3 die secured in a vice (recreates the smooth end). - Repaint any modifications which exposed the wood of the guitar body. Spray paint works. Spray into the lid and use a brush for tough areas. Note that almost no wood modifications will be visible with the bridge on. IF REQUIRED: - Grind brass block down to match stock depth (40 mm to 34 mm in this case) - Hacksaw new spring slots to initial depth - Redrill spring holes so that springs sit flush with block - Cut ground wire to tremolo claw if in the way of drilling deeper for inserts - Redrill new path for ground wire to reach tremolo claw - Solder or use crimp fitting to reconnect wire - Drill out the arm/bar sleeve ledge in the tremolo cavity deep enough so the Gotoh can be seated fully. Depending on your desired string action and the particular guitar, also sand/file/chisel down the flat area where the studs/inserts are, so the bridge can dive/pull up properly. SET UP: - Use 3 or 4 springs. 3 in a triangular pattern is quite common. Balance tuning the guitar with leveling out the bridge on each side by adjusting the spring tension. This process can take some time. - When tuned up, check string intonation: compare the 12th fret harmonic to the fretted note. If the note is flat, loosen the string and move the saddle forward slightly. If sharp, move the saddle back. Want to see a demonstration of the Gotoh? Link at end of video!
I put a hard item in the shaft and screwed the post down and the shaft lifted right up. It was a pretty easy swap from the licensed Floyd. I just installed it but its actually holding tune now.
There’s an option for the studs if someone is not brave enough or doesn’t have to tools to drill and put in the Gotoh ones. You can order the hardened steel stud set from Floyd Rose and use those instead. Will drop in existing holes.
Depends on the guitar, the floyd studs have an M7 thread which is not compatible with the M6 posts on the Godin. In theory, can tap the M6 posts to M7 (reduces wall thickness) or die the M7 studs to M6 (likely to damage the head). The floyd studs are also said not to play nice with the knife edges of the Gotoh, tuning stability wise. My recommendation is to go full Gotoh if doing the swap.
I have an Ibanez XPT700XH guitar and the stock trem leaves something to be desired. It barely stays in tune and due to the wedge profile, it's hard to tell when it's level. The Gotoh seems like a great upgrade
That's a cool guitar shape! I'm definitely a Gotoh fan now and would recommend it. I have the GE1996T and 510T tremolos and feel they are pretty well perfect. Really nice operation, sustain, and solid construction.
I was looking for a vid like this, where just home tools were used, not a drill press, etc. Would have been cool to see the actual drilling process, but great vid none the less. How did you control the depth of the drill when drilling for the post/studs?
When you remove the old posts you can just widen the holes with a 7/16" drill bit going straight down. Worked as a carpenter before so I was comfortable eyeballing it plum - the guitar is doing great. I drilled a little bit at a time, getting out the sawdust and checking the depth by dropping in the studs. In my case, to keep the same string action, I had figured out the studs needed to be flush with the body. It's no problem if you drill a little further/set the posts a bit low, since you can loosen the studs (which raises them) and lock at the action you want. Thank you for watching!
