In this episode we remove and replace the Main Drive Bearings and Shaft Seal on a Fisher & Paykel Direct Drive Top Loader. Parts required : Bearings : 6005 2RS Seals : 401447N x2off, 402286N x1off
Excellent resourceful Kiwi video thanks 👌. I struggled to undo the nut, so converted my overly long ring spanner (32mm or 1 1/4") into a flogging spanner, by cutting it in half (now 200mm). This style of tool is so useful for working in confined spaces such as in the bowels of a boat. One or two judicious clouts with a solid hammer is effective here, whilst gently holding the ring end square on the nut. I had to re-fit the impeller and jam a random piece of timber into the bowl just to stop the easy turning of the shaft. Nothing precise needed. To ease fitting of bearings, place them in freezer for an hour or so, and or heat the housing with a heat gun or hair drier. I used a light smear of silicone grease to ease fitting of seals. Mine is a 2003 model and now will last forever again ha. 😄
Best video I've seen on same washer I have. Bought it in 2004. It is an amazing machine! One of the best features we like is the fast spin cycle which actually saves you energy because so much water is extracted. Drying takes less time. You've given me confidence to repair mine and replace those bearings.👍
Great video. I did the bearings on my 15 year old Fisher and Paykel smartdrive on the weekend. It's doable however I wouldn't say it's for someone with limited technical skills. It took me quite a few hours to do. I think really you need to pull out the top panel (you need to disconnect all the wires from the controller). That way you can pull out the inner bowl to work on getting out shafts and bearings. I had quite a bit of trouble getting the old shaft back through once I put in the new bearings. It took quite a lot of beating with a rubber mallet and piece of work to get it through. Also when I put in the bearings seal it doesn't sit flush with the top of the bowl but rather quite a bit under the lip, that said it seems to run well so not sure if it's meant to be like that or the new bearings are a different size. That said I got it all back together and I can't believe how quiet the machine is now on the spin cycle. Thanks again for the video as just someone showing all the steps and parts gives you the confidence to take it on however just remember it's not a beginner's job.
This is a great video, Nev. All the other bearing replacement videos require complete removal of the top and both drums, with lots of extra dismantling. Your method cuts out all that nonsense and there is still plenty of room to work from above and below. Thanks a lot!
Great vid mate. Only thing I would add is before you go crazy. Take the top off ,expose the bowl, remove the inner and outer bowl cover and inspect first. Mine was making noise exactly like a worn bearing turned out a sock had flown in between the inner and outer bowl during a previous spin cycle. It was giving all indications of a bearing gone; noise, resistance to spin etc. 5 min later, old sock removed and works like new.
Thanks Nev, our F&P washing machine was so noisy we had decided to replace it. Googled your program and decided to have crack. $25 of parts and a morning later our machine has a new lease of life. Biggest issue was the amount of accumulated filth in the machine to clean up.
I just did this repair two days ago on a 21 year old FP ECO Smart Washer. I sourced my parts from an Australian Ebayer that provided the 2 bearings and a seal in an affordable kit not available in the US👍👍👍
Thank God for you! Have an eco smart for 14 years, fixed the pump twice, now doing the bearings, thanks to you cheaper, and seals, along w new hangers and clean the drum, great idea. Easiest machines I ever worked on.
Hi Nev, Following my earlier note, I strongly suspected that the RPS signals were open-circuit. So, I removed the Rotor and Stator Coils, in order to access the RPS. Problem became obvious when I examined the contacts. Discoloration and slight corrosion. I cleaned the contacts of the RPS (Rotor Position Sensor) with a Cotton Bud with a little Metal Polish. I then used a DMM to check the circuit, and all was OK. I replaced the Rotor and Stator, then started the machine. A huge feeling of elation, as my old (38 years) F&P burst into life! Many might say "just scrap it". But it is the challenge that I enjoy. It was by watching your video that committed me into action - replacing those Drum Bearings and Seal. Old F&P now runs like a brand-new machine. Thanks, and greetings from Australia.
Thanks Nev! Not very many Fisher Paykel washer repair videos out there. We have the very same machine that developed a very bad smell after 7 years. I had to remove the inner spin basket and power wash it as well as clean the outer tub in place with bleach, sponge and wet vac. You kind of glossed over that when you reassembled it. Consider making a video of it as I’m sure it is a common issue most homeowners don’t realize they can do it themselves. Thanks again!!
Yeah, I pull the inner drum out every couple of years (remove top deck etc not all the motor stuff) and clean with a pressure washer to remove all the built up scum.
great video! I must be second luckiest person, our USA version IWL12 washer is going on 17 years. 2 pump motors, agitator assembly, and now some new tub supports going in this week. runs great!
Thank you for this video 👍 My washing machine is the same age and a very similar model, and the top bearing has finally given out today. I really like these machines, they're tough and last forever. I was surprised to hear about them having a poor reputation. Thanks to this video, I might actually be able to fix my machine. Thanks again 😁
Thanks Nev. Just completed this on GW712 model and gave it a good clean. I too had issues reseating the top bearing. I should have frozen it like someone else suggested but eventually got It seated. Now working much better and doesn’t sound like an aeroplane taking off when at top speed spinning.
Great video. I have just replaced the 2 bearings and seal after the machine became noisy, unfortunately I left it for 2 months before doing the job. The top bearing had spun on the shaft so had to apply loctite during assembly, also I pulled the bearings into place with a piece of 5/8 threaded rod.
Great Video helped me a lot, I had issues getting the Bearings to seat right, My fix after some pounding and tearing my hair out, Freeze the Bearings, only left them for 30 minutes, you can do longer, and they slip in with a gentle tap, 3 hours pissing round, 1 hour to complete it after that, PS don't forget to put the drain pump back the right way.
I just replaced the bearings in my 22 year old machine. Went ok. I did the new bearings in the freezer trick, which helped. Nev must have a better job than me cos the inside of our machine was much more filthy than his! It was a high pressure hose job! Bearings were tough to come out. Top bearing came away in bits. Already disintegrated I think as the machine had been leaking badly as well as noisy. $39 AUD for a bearing & seal kit on Ebay. Thanks for the tips!
Just replaced bearings on a 18 year old F&P - only problem was the upper bearing got out of line, and J didn't pay sufficient attention to reinstalling the rotation sensor - all's well that ends well!! Thanms for your detail video.
Great video, thanks!! On the list to do. The spin cycle is deafening on mine. PS my machine looks a little older than this and I can't kill it. Tough as nails.
Hi Nev, not sure if you revisit this video, but I have just replaced the Drum Bearings and also the special Seal (inside the top of shaft). All went well, and I appreciate your help with this. However, upon starting, I heard a small 'thump' every two seconds (at first start-up on the spin cycle). This machine is a GW 701 from 1995, and is a top Loader Direct Drive. I have already replaced components on the Circuit Board - due to finding a water leak in the Cooling Tube. This blew-up components on the circuit board, which I matched like-for like. This Cooling Tube keeps the Motor Mosfets cool in operation. I re-lined the original (corroded) tube with a close-fitting Internal Alloy Tube (bought from Ebay - if anyone else has this problem too). Inner Tube was bonded - inside the original with silicone. However, I need to determine just why the Drum gives a 'thump' every two seconds upon start of the Spin Cycle. I lifted the Lid whilst this was happening and peered inside. It isn't just the Drum that is lifting approx 10mm, but the Outer water container(Tub) too. Any ideas? I will be investigating this tomorrow to determine the cause. You did a great video. I didn't need to disconnect any wiring / plugs from the Stator Coil. It's really important that you do not catch those precious coils on the shaft end. Mine slipped right off, so I wrapped it in a blanket to preserve the Coil Assembly. Greetings from Australia
Hi Nev, can you give me an idea how much I should be charged to repair a fisher & paykal washing machine that keeps going off balance also how much to fix a dryer that doesn’t spin, is there anyone you could recommend, they are both less than 4yrs old, I’ve been quoted $130 just to come out, I’m on a pension & every cent counts, especially since I lost my husband very recently…you seem very genuine and I trust your advice , Thankyou
Hi Nev, is there a reason you used different seals on the last two you put in? We are in the US and having a terrible time finding them. Will 3 of the 25-47-7’s work?
Move a bit more carefully at 8:35, you will break the out-of-balance sensor level if you don't position it outside of the outer drum. Otherwise all good.
@@jayyingling6702 You can undo a screw if you remove the control module and remove the microswitch / lever. When the module is out you can spray all connectors with switch cleaner which improves reliability.
What did you do off camera before the rotor “slipped off” ? My machine refuses to let me seperate the plastic rotor from the motor. Now the machine refuses to spin , it just shudders slightly clockwise and anticlockwise.. Excellent advice on the alternative seal replacement ….. 🤗
@@MrRobinskii couldn’t justify putting more time and effort into it. So i decided to scrap it for a wind turbine project and then found one on the motor wires loose under the rotor …. 😢
i like this video a little. a little different then the cabrio and the oasis and the bravo washer bearing job i do... they only have one seal at top not 3... and there is a little ring that go's on bottom of that inter spacer pipe between the 2 bearings on the bottom side of that pipe, but you should at grease on the inside of those 3 rubber seals for they will make noise when it go's into a high spin and you will have to remove the seals and grease them believe me ....
I am following the excellent advice in your video. Thank you. But I cannot knock the shaft out (despite having removed the top and bottom nuts). Any suggestions as to how to proceed?
What were the substitute seals that you used? The kits online are ridiculously overpriced at around $255 for the 2 bearings and seal. For $250 more I can buy a new machine.
I looked up the size - you can see it when Nev shows the seals. They're known as Metric Oil Seals on Amazon and elsewhere in the USA. The ones used in this video are 25mm x 47mm x 7mm and 25MM X 48MM X 8MM. | The bearings are 6005-2RS Sealed Ball Bearing - C3 Clearance.
Hi Nev, my elba F&P won't spin. Was going well, then didn't spin. No strange noises. Can they jump off the cogs that make them spin if they get imbalanced? Do they have cogs? Have you done a video about this please?
Hi Nev, a great and informative video. A quick question, is the metal sleeve between the two bearings supposed to be able to move or should it be fixed?
Does my F&P AquaSmart have a bearing or some other issue? No noise at very slow < 10 RPM vs several short violent shudders per revolution > 30 RPM. Doesn't match the noise on several videos about bearing replacement. During spin up washer violently shudders at mid-speed spin which causes it to pause the cycle due to "out of balance".
Hi Nev. Great report and repair. I'll be following your directions this coming week myself. Are all 3 seals exactly the same or was the 1st one you used different. ??. Cheers
Which seals did you end using? We were going to use 3 of the 25-47-7 like the first one he mentioned, but then noticed the next two were different, TC25-48-8. We are worried that the using only the 25-47-7 will cause it to start leaking. What happened with yours? Thank.
@@markdebisteiner3979 Yeah, I was going to go the 3 seals, but was a little unsure like you are, so I thought, we have had the machine from new, 20 years now, been noisy for the last year, so pretty happy with that and where I went for the bearings, they actually had the proper seal, all for about $40 I think. That'll do me.
@@trevorjosephs5690 Out of curiosity where did you get the bearings and seal from? I know the bearings are pretty easy to get a hold of from an auto parts store as Nev said but I would have thought you would only be able to get the seal from a authorised repair shop?
@@daniellegibbs5849 Hi Danielle. Sorry I can't remember exactly where I bought from, only that I am sure it was on Welshpool Rd, on the right as you come from Albany Hwy, driveway on the left of building and at the back of a building that faces Welshpool Rd. They seemed to know all about the F&P washers, bearings and seals. I bought it all there. Sorry couldn't be more helpful. Goodluck. Trevor
That's all good. I was just wondering what type of store it was. Where are you from? Just wondering because of the directions you gave I'm in Hamilton, New Zealand.
i have a stubborn drive shaft that won't come out. i hit it flush with the bearing and that's it. won't go any further no matter what i use. any ideas ?
Just did this, didn't even need lube, but that might help. Can you push it back in and see if anything is catching? In and out as far as you can with plenty of lube would be my plan of attack (not a sexual reference).
@@hempev i didn't take the drum out first ! when i did that it just pulled out. but when i put it all back together somehow i damaged one of the winding in the coil. now it won't go. fills up and and lights up but won't agitate or spin. so i bought a new one. looking around now for another coil rather than taking it down the tip. too good for that.
I have a gwl11 Fisher and Paykel. My bearings are really squeaking. The repair technician said that this machine doesn't have removable bearings, and that the whole tub would have to be replaced. I asked him to look into it because I saw your tutorial. He came back and said he could buy a kit to replace the bearings, but if the tub cracks while he's removing the bearings the tub is not replaceable. My question to you is, is there a way to remove the bearings without cracking the tub? Please help.
I bought a 10KG aquasmart secondhand over 10 years ago and I'd say every 5 years or so, I do what's becoming a tradition of shocks 5 years and bearing being the first time to replace every 10. I guess most people hear these noises, and then phone someone only for them to say that all machines are throw-away items these days and these models are clearly not for extending their life. Thanks, mate for the video, definitely saved me some coin and now the Chinese own F&P, I am keen to stay with the older machines. I saw you having a bit of a grunt pulling the drum out with all the calcium build-up, it easily adds a few KGs to the drum. I actually used Coffee Machine decalcifier powder and fill the drum right up with hot water using the service option HOT and then run from the service section the recycle pump to push the chemical around. it does a really good job and is about $20.00 a tub that should give you 3 or so good cleans. The only gripe is the bloody tin drum they build these / all machines in, I have no clue why apart from cheap to make and paint, whereas surely there would be a better chassis that would deaden the machine and be a bit more study.. First world problems I know :) Thanks again for saving me some dosh.
