Thank you, boss is out of town, only service tech on a Saturday, nobody will answer there phones. 19yo tech never went to school for any of it. Working for a small business owner op and this helped me so much thank you. Belt trick also worked with a serpentine belt I had and a pry bar as well thank you sir.
Oh, Lord, I laughed and laughed when you said you could see the hate mail coming in :D No matter who it is, or what the project is, if it's on RU-vid, somebody out there is going to have something to say about it, myself included. Time always seems to be the one ingredient that you're short on... If it were my project, and time weren't against me, I'd have cleaned and painted the housing and the steel strap. That's not hatemail :) By the way, the glasses-cam is fine. Thanks for sharing.
I did take the time to do a good job on the coolant pipe and tank so they won't rust. That video coming next, the paint is still drying as I write this. I don't want the hoses to get stuck to the pipe where I might need to cut the hoses off next time.
My comment would be to make a little cover to go over the air dryer and protect it when you are sitting with no trailer. You get in an ice storm and the truck is sitting it will take forever to get air past the frozen filter. Good video as always.
If the air dryer is not in good condition, all air components including valves, air brake chambers, ABS brake valve get damaged due to water in air lines, even corrosion can show up inside the primary and secondary air tanks due to excesive water in the tanks. Very important the air dryer.
Seeing you playing around the air system reminds me that I need to get into my air compressor. I'm running N14 red top past 3 weeks my air compressor is making very loud sound , kind of like a badly adjusted valves . Once the pressure build's up the noise will stop , I need to look into it .
Thank you for video! I know know my local shop is lazy and would rather charge me $700 to put new one on instead of changing the filter. I will change it myself now!
One of the first trucks I drove back in the 80's, didn't even have an air dryer, it used an alcohol evaporator, and you had to fill up a little reservoir periodically with alcohol (not the kind for drinkin'). We had drivers who had no clue, and about 90% of the guys were just too lazy to bother opening the drain tap(s) at the end of the day. Come the winter, one morning the truck wouldn't be able to move because the whole thing would be frozen up, with ice in the lines, so that truck would be out of commission until it warmed up, or until someone took the time to feed raw alcohol into the lines where water had pooled and turned to ice. We had 3 of that same model, all at different branches, and the same problem with 2 of them year after year. Only one guy who (exclusively) drove the one truck, never had the problem, because he looked after the truck himself. The rest of the fleet was slip-seat-central, and nobody cared about the next guy, until THEY were the next guy, then it was all about running and screaming to the boss about the condition the last user had left the truck in.... I only drove that truck for about 10 months, but I learned about the alcohol evap system early on in the late autumn, so I kept up on it. In the summer you didn`t need to add juice but you wanted to drain the tanks as often as you could. The drains were conveniently right there under the driver`s step, so anytime I got out, I`d open them and let it all go. The price was about a 30-second penalty waiting for enough air to be built up when you were ready to leave later on. Of course, to some people, any sort of delay at all was seen as cutting into their beer time, so they couldn`t be bothered. They didn`t care so much first thing in the morning if the truck was frozen up, because they were on the clock then.
Great job sir! But sometimes is best to replace all the seals even if the old ones looks good! That way it will prevent any leaks that might happen in the future. But otherwise you did a great job😎👍
By conditions I meant how much driving, humidity, how old is the air compressor and how much oil is it blowing into the air system. N.J. in not a low humidity part of the country. If you're a city driver and you're not getting any oil in your system then 3 or 4 years might be fine. A road driver might need to do it more often. Check with other drivers that do what you do and find out what they do.
Great video enjoyed the input. The glasses where a neat touch. Do you change that filter, when it acts a certain way, annually, bi-annually.? I added a aftermarket auto add air brake anti freeze fluid. Between that type dryer and the tanks. It works out a QT a month. Huge help with water, and Valve issues sticking. Blows out with the brake usage.
If you have oil coming out of the tank drains or the brake exhaust then you need to change it more often. I change mine about 3 or 4 years unless I have a problem like constantly blowing off or noise from the compressor. If the compressor is leaking oil into the air it will contaminate the filter and it can clog the braided air line that comes from the comp. to the check valve, the oil can burn inside the line and clog it from the high heat coming from the compressor.
Excellent video! The air dryer on our fire truck was leaking, so I put in a new one yesterday but the trucks still not making air and can't release the brakes... any suggestions?
The pressure governor can cause that and also the air hose from the compressor to the air dryer can clog up with burned oil from a worn out compressor and won't let air through. The governor is mounted on the side of the compressor head and looks kind of like a wheel cylinder on an old car with drum brakes. I hope this helps.
@@57bagre Thanks so much Gordon, -we got it fixed. One of the brass fittings had stripped threads due to putting on teflon thread sealer tape. Trucks making air no problem now!
have problems with electric cord when plugged to trailer i turn on the right turn signal in the cab and the left blinker turns on the trailer how do determine which wire goes where it is a 7 pin just need the two to switch but which two please help
As you look at the trailer "female" socket from the front of the trailer, the bottom center male prong is the brake light, the one next to it on the left is the turn signal to your left as you look from the front (the right signal from the rear) back to the socket, the prong to the right of the brake, (bottom center) is the signal to your right as you look from the front, (left signal from the rear) in other words the two turn signals are to either side of the brake on their respective sides. First make sure the error isn't at the rear lights, hot wire the turn signal prong with a positive wire, and make sure you have a good ground connection from the trailer frame to a ground source on the truck. The ground prong on the socket is the big one in the top, to either side of that are the tail and marker lights the center is aux.
If I get time this winter I would like to clear out the shop and bring the "wing" in for carb clean and new paint. I hope I find everything that could be a problem on the truck before our annual 6 months of bad weather that starts next month.
The shine won't stay on the trunk, I can see sun damaged paint when it's in sunlight. I haven't done a nice paint job in over 20 years and I have never done base coat clear coat, I always did enamel and some lacquer like 30 plus years ago. I have all the supplies so why not start getting reacquainted with the art. I would like to do a lot more of that when I retire.
I like single stage paint far more than two stage, less chance of a chemical reaction from contamination or from using a base & clear from two different companies and this damn waterbourne paint is a huge pain in the ass (
