Replacing "S" cam and bushings (part 1 of 4) 

Thank you.

Thanks for watching.

Gordon's Work is BETTER than most truckstop shops.....he used to be an auto mechanic. I started doing my own work too because of the Subpar mechanics that don't seem to care.

Thanks John.

Torque spec depends on spindle nut setup. Not torquing to correct spec could lead to premature wheel seal failure and possible bearing and spindle damage.

Thanks.

Thanks Walt.

Good luck in your career and be safe out there. Thanks for watching.

How do u know when u need to replace the s cam ?

Thanks for watching.

I'm not the one to ask about that. When I have doubts about what kind of oil I call the dealer. If it doesn't have any fiber rings or clutches, I would guess it's ok to use regular gear lube.

Only local, no highway logs, just a daily local sheet, no scales except once a year they set up portables. I can go OTR if there's not enough local and I will need to do regular logs.

Gear oil.

Thanks how do you get in in?

See the center of that cap that Gordon's removing @ 6:36 ? That's a rubber plug that just pops out and you pour or pump some oil in. The area surrounding the plug is a clear plastic that (when new) allows you to visually check the oil level, but they fog up over time and then it becomes easier to pull the plug to check the level.

Thanks Mr Shyster

Thanks for watching.

I don't know, I have several axle nut sockets. You just need to measure the nut and buy a socket from the dealer or Truck Pro or maybe the dealer can tell you what sizes they are on your truck. There are 2 different size nuts in there so you need 2 sockets. I did a new job like that recently but don't have the videos up yet, watch for them soon, maybe this weekend.

@@57bagre Figured I was going to have to do that. Anyways hopefully one of those places has the sockets in stock. I'm not particular to ordering stuff. Thanks for the info. I think I put too much oil in the hub this time. Heard when they get hot the oil has to come out somewhere. Maybe the bearings are going bad, will see.

That adjuster that made the noise was a different style, it has a tight reverse ratcheting without lifting a locking pawl like on the more common slacks. It reminds me of the star wheel on auto adjust drum brakes on the older cars and light trucks with hydraulic drum brakes. I have several videos on adjusting brakes on big trucks in my playlist of truck repair, go to my home page and then playlists to find it. Thanks for watching and commenting.

A lot of truck drivers do, just ask them.

Democrats certainly do.

On larger fasteners the "specs" are usually not that critical, now on head bolts or a part with a gasket that has a "crush" factor, or just several fasteners on that part it is important that the torque be pretty close to the same on all of those fasteners on that part, more so than the exact foot pounds. As for how I estimate, I handle a lot of "known measured weights" and can safely guess what something weighs in my hands, so to guess how much pressure I am applying is easy for me, I'm sure I guessed within 10% - 15% which is fine for this job. Good subject for a video some day.

When it has obvious side play when you are changing the brakes and when grease is getting in the brakes.

thanks.

For what? the drum? that would take too long and too awkward to set up, the drum's not that heavy.

gabino tinajero always work smater