Replacing the ABS Pump on our 2010 MAZDA 3 

Thanks so much for this comment. Was having a bitch of a time putting the new module in (even crossthreaded one port, had to get another unit from the junkyard!) until I read this comment. Did it the way you recommended, and it went way smoother. Thanks again, I owe you a beer - if not in this life, then in the next.

When you replaced the ABS modules, did you have to reprogram/link them with the VIN via a scan tool? Reason why I ask is because I see people talking about linking or programming the VIN to the new module. I'm looking at replacing the ABS module in my mum's 2010 Mazda 3 and want to have a fair idea on what I'm in for. Thanks for mentioning the brake lines, I would have done it the hard way.

I didn't have to. Shop manual says to turn the ignition on, and leave it like that for a few minutes to allow it to auto-calibrate. If you've got a scan tool, like the Foxwell NT630, you can use it to open and close valves while bleeding the system to try to really get any air out of the modules valve body. Once you're done, you can use it to "reinitialize the DSC sensors), but I think that's more for when you've replaced those sensors, than when you've replaced the ABS/DSC module. If you don't have one already, I'd recommend getting a Motive pressure bleeder. Yes they're a bit pricey, and you might only use it for the one job, but it makes it so much smoother and easier to bleed the brakes. It should use the 45mm adapter for the reservoir.

​@@evanc.1591I have a cheap scan tool (Vident i400AU) that says it does brake bleeding but I'm not sure if it actually does as it said it programmed keys for my car which it didn't do. At least we don't need to do anything else to the ABS module. Thank you for taking the time to go into detail, Much appreciated.

@@JohnDoe55644 These cars don't have an auto brake bleed procedure built in. The best you can get is control of each of the individual ABS valves. It helps when testing to click each one of them on and off manually a few times, and listen for the faint click coming from the unit. If you don't hear a click for any one of them, that means the valve is stuck, and the unit needs to be replaced. When bleeding, I just clicked each on and off a couple times while pushing fluid through the system. Like I said, I used a pressure bleeder, so I didn't have to worry about the whole press pedal/open screw/close screw/release pedal cycle. I could just keep a steady flow of fluid and cycle each of the valves.

Used a 6" pipe wrench for those stuck and a regular 10mm key with some spraw product to loosen the rust... was able to take them all out in place without any issue

How do I reprogram a new module? I’ve got a Mazda 5 and was quoted 3 grand

@michaelparker2319 unfortunately it has to be reprogrammed by the dealer. We suck the info out and put it into the new pump using IDS. The other way is using as built data and putting in the factory abs program straight from mazda.

@michaelparker2319 3k sounds pretty steep too. I doubt it should be more than 1500. I'm guessing their recommending a brake flush since the new pump has to bled

You don’t always have to reprogram it, if it’s a used matching pump

@@Givelasagna are you sure about needing to reprogram on this specific vehicle? I know it's neeeded for other vehicles and/or other modules, but in the 2nd gen 3's I see no mention of reprogramming in the service manual, only an auto configuration (by the instrument cluster) in the first drive cycle and the need for recalibration of two sensors. I have looked through M-IDS and FORSCAN and don't see any options in either to install/uninstall ABS module in a 2010. I do see see options to install/uninstall other modules, but not ABS module.

Hey Mark, thanks for the comment! After changing out the ABS Module we never bled the brakes so they were super spongy. The AC unit on the vehicle was also not working so we will be releasing a follow up video on the progress of the Mazda soon which will include the spongy brakes and the AC Unit.

I got the same question. Did you ever figure it out?

@@zezebro17 I did! I made a video on it a couple months ago (scroll a bit until you see “Fixing My Mazda RX-8’s BIGGEST Problems!”) I highlighted on what to look out for and how to swap the ABS module without reprogramming it.

Great video man, Was a lot of work

Thank you for watching! The part we received was a used part that came from the same model of Mazda with the same features, so the ABS pumps were identical 1:1. From what I understand a different model number pump can be used, however it would have to be reprogrammed at a dealership which is just wasting money.

Passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front in that order.

@@TheAgentAaron ok I did it that way. Bleeders were hard to move but was able to use my pump to suck out 1 cup. Each wheel

@@drewbush6535 yeah, the bleeders can be difficult to open. And as long as you did it in that particular order after ensuring that your brake fluid was filled to the appropriate level then proceeding to each wheel having a length of fish aquarium air line that dropped down into a container (I use a 2L coke bottle) that has 2-3 inches of clean brake fluid so that each tine you open a valve, pump the brakes, close the valve again you ensure that no air is pulled back into the brake line and that at each wheel absolutely no more air bubbles are coming through you should be hood. You should also check the brake fluid level very frequently through this entire process and fill it to the appropriate level as you go because it will undoubtedly go down. One point though, I would not be concerned at all about the quantity that you pull out. Your primary objective is to remove all air from the brake lines even if it takes two full bottles of new brake fluid. Just pulling a cup of fluid from a wheel does not mean that you were able to do a complete and satisfactory job that will ensure your safety. Your most critical thing to accomplish here us tgexremoval of all air, this is chief. Any aircin your brake lines will cause them to be spongy and if you were to stop suddenly with hard braking you would have one of several possible results: delayed stopping, lengthened stopping distance, potentially no stopping at all. Obviously these could result jn a very bad outcome. So don't worry about how much you remove. Focus on ensuring that there is absolutely no air in the brake lines.

@@drewbush6535 PS a small bit of penetrant on each valve may help to open them. I would just be sure to wipe them completely clean before actually opening them.

I mean certain cars you will but depends on how fancy you getting alot of newer vehicles also require you have a scan tool to do an ABS bleed in which the brake pedal pulses and purges air out of the pump to even get a stiff pedal ever again.