I haven't gotten through the whole video yet, but I just want to say thanks for showing how to do the multimeter check. I'm still a novice with electrical diagnostics and I was panicked when you said not to attempt the repair if you haven't narrowed down the issue. That helped me confirm the port as the problem.
I did one of these a few months ago before lockdown. I had trouble bending the two outer pins, so i extracted the unbroken ones from the old port and transplanted them onto the new port, meaning i only had to bend the front four. I also, lifted a pin too, i don't have hot air station either.
@@makho The DS fat uses the same port but I don't think it's a pass through either. Most likely you are right and the manufacturer just doesn't bother bending them in the right position as it's not just a standard 90 degree bend.
What triwing screwdriver do you have? By any chance can you send me an exact link as to where you got them? The ones that I have cannot even open mine.
Hey, I checked my port and got 5.2 V off of a 5.2 V charger and both of my fuses have continuity as well, but my SP isn’t charging still. Any other tips to get it charging?
It's not dead even if it's above your current skill level. Charge port mods in the SP are not what I'd consider beginner friendly. The GB discord is probably the place to go to seek help on this but they're going to tell you to start with a solder practice kit (and they're right) and learn to embrace flux.
I tried to remove my charge port like this but I ended up ripping up a trace. I thought I'd just run it without a charge port till i had a chance to fix it but when I turned it on, the screen went bright white before it stopped turning on completely. 😢 any suggestions?
I tested my charge port like you did but I am only getting at most 3V. Does that mean it is potentially the charge port? I also know it isn't my charger because this issue was consistent with 2 of my chargers
Link port is easy since all the pins are through hole. Just hit the eight pins with a solder sucker and then maybe you have to walk out the anchors. Otherwise should be very straightforward. Could even just run hot air against the bottom of the board since there's nothing underneath the link port.
So I discovered an, apparently, unique problem with an SP board I recently aquired. The sound and volume through the speaker work great, as does the volume slider, but the sound through the headphone port is almost absent. It charges perfectly. I've cleaned and did a contact reflow - no difference. I've found absolutely nothing on the intertube about this - nada. Any ideas?
Not sure how well that would work. Unless you mean to remove the port, then yeah, that would work great. I just didn't have hot air at the time or I would have done that from the start.
@@makho I have one that needs replacing and I'm going to give it a try pretty soon. I'm confident about a proper flow at the contacts of the the port, but not so sure about other things not melting out of place near by. I feel the typically "tough" Nintendo solder will stay in place, especially if I use low temp solder paste. I will let ya'll know of the result.
if they're audio traces, then just cleanup and move on. Four of the six traces are for headphone support. If you messed up the other two, you'll have to patch it.
fucking hell. Just bought one of these damn charge ports and of course none of the pins line up. Why would they? It's not like it's an electrical component or anything.
One of the worst jobs to learn how to solder. I highly recommend starting with practice kits and coming back to this specific project after many hours of experience.
I destroyed 3 of my pad, damn those crap, I got the USB C mod, best decision I made for today, lucky enough, if was the one of the last pad standing lmao
Based off how you're phrasing this, I think the best course of action is to read more about circuits and practice soldering on something a bit more forgiving. When you're ready, the schematic can help you github.com/Gekkio/gb-schematics
@@makho Thank you for your reply makho but it's the pcb i think you know the place where you need to solder new port's pins one of the six places is gone with the old one. so i suppose only way is charging battery outside of the gba i dont know like dslr battery chargers
like I just mentioned in reply to another comment, this port was made and intended for 3rd party docks and accessories, not for GBAs specifically. Someone just found a stockpile of new-old stock (NOS) SP parts including the charge ports so if you really want to keep it stock, grab some of those to replace it. Otherwise, do a USB C mod. It's not worth trying to get one of these things to work.
These aren't really intended to be for GBA SP consoles. There are aftermarket docks and such that use these through hole ports and that's what they're intended for. With enough elbow grease, as I showed, they do work in a SP, however.
Tried to do this and i f*cked up all the traces under the port while trying to desolder it. Half of the pads fell apart from the motherboard. My motherboard is all ruined now.
@@makho yeah i think it was my fault while trying to desolder the pins under the port, so i was told that i can still save the motherboard (it still turns on) by modding it with the usb c port mod. Sorry if i was an asshole with my first comment, but i was very frustrated after damaging the board trying to fix the port, your channel has rly helped me a lot to fix different issues
@@Stry-Glitch this is old and random but I lifted the third pin from the left. Just wondering if you might know where to run a jumper from if I just decide to do the usb c mod? Thanks !
