Still irrelevant in 10 months due to the Analogue Pocket^tm
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yo, is someone playing Zelda OOT or Major's mask in background. i hear random link yelling way in the distance, that said thanks for video plan to add this kit to a second SP i found in my stock of old stuff.
Where do you even buy this new board??? I JUST ordered one from the link, then i see that its the ver 1.0. Your link takes me to that one only. Looked online and i dont see a new revision anywhere
Is there a way to bypass or completely remove the touch sensors on these screens for GBC, GBA & GBA SP? I need to perform this process even more so on the GBC as the Pokémon Pinball game causes the sensors to go haywire. PS, my second screen purchase for my other new GBA SP cobalt blue came with the proper wire so I can utilize the backlight button.
Hello makho! I saw your amazing tactile button mod on RU-vid. I ordered a pcb board of zekfoo that is very similar to yours because I wanted to mod the start select button to tactile. However, there was no suitable membrane to use for this, so I decided to print out the spacer you put on github on a 3d printer. I have a question about this. You said you used tpu material when you printed the spacer, but what hardness filament did you use? 90a? Or 85a?
Found my old, busted up sp, fixed it up with new shell, ips screen, and battery... miserable battery life. One hour to red light, not quite three to dead console. Add maybe an extra half hour to both if using og cartridge instead of flash cart. I thought I just got a dud battery, so I got multiple new ones from more reputable sources, same story. tried this today, fingers crossed it fixes things... though I'm not holding out too much hope as the switch wasn't that dirty inside once I opened it up, & cleaning didn't make much of a visual difference.
Well, there was some improvement - went from about a 3 hour battery life to a 4 hour battery life, with most of the increase while the light was still green. Significant improvement, but it remains pretty far from the minimum of I'd call acceptable for a pocket handheld. Still, 33% improvement's not nothing. Maybe I'll go back and try again with the baking soda. Very much appreciate this old video showing me how to do this. Years later & still helping.
Hi! I have a couple of questions: 1- Is there any problem when installing the LCD if I have an original shell with its original lens attached already? Should I first separate the lens, install the LCD and install the lens again, or I can do it without removing the lens in the first place? 2- Can I remove the touch sensors? If able to, I'd prefer not to have that feature and only have the buttons. Thanks!
Wow, I watched this video just today, and learned that the gba games like emerald only has the real time clock separate from the saves on the battery, that was kind of a big deal to me, is it possible to lose the ability to save as well though on those games? Ive got both emerald and crystal with below 0.10 volt readings, so looking to get new batteries for them, but need to get a soldering iron and stuff first, kinda scary to me though since I havent done any soldering before :D
Wait a minute, 42:55 was that a prototype headphone dongle you're working on? I've been trying to find a decent headphone dongle for the SP but I can't seem to find one that's universally recommended. If you sold a dongle of your own I'd instabuy it..
I guess things have changed in the year since you posted this vid but there is a couple suitable batteries you can use from Digikey. Part Numbers for the two I found: 1908-CR1220V2-ND CR-1220/FCN Personally would recommend CR-1220/FCN as it's the cheaper option. In either case you'll have to change the tab bend orientations as positive terminal on both these have it's tab laid flat (so it seems these versions of the battery were intended to have positive side facing the PCB). But with both EZ Flash 3in1 and Omega it's the other way around. Better then not having tabs though I suppose. :P
i find out that there are issues with some Pokemon original cardriges. With the Burnmaster and the oscr i got "Flashrom Type not supported ID: 6213" error with different copys of the game to test and the game with the LE26FV10N1TS flash chip the small footprint version are the ones with this problem. Hopefully with a firmware upgrade this issue can be fixed.
Is the D-pad "analogue" like the Playstation? I want to play Gran Turismo 3 on my Mac. On PS2, pressing harder left or right on D-pad would determine how sharply I turned.
have never heard of analogue d-pads. No official controller has ever added such a feature afaik. This one definitely doesn't have it. Only triggers & thumb sticks are analogue and this one doesn't have analogue triggers as it's mostly marketed as a less expensive Switch pro controller.
I have a unit. It has a ghost input issue, but when I open it up I can't see any issues with the membranes. The screen also turns green sometimes on random boots.... I'm wondering if there is a power related issue which is causing these unexpected issues. The issues dissappear if I place the handheld on a dock.
Would a backlight upgrade mod not help at all? Like brighter leds or a modified backlight panel from a ds lite? Its too bad we can't remove the transflective component of the screen entirely to make it purely back-lit only.
There's this one on retrogamerepairshop and a different one on Handheld Legend. Both supposedly drop in and both hispeedido. The one on Handheld Legend doesn't seem to be on Hispeedido's website. This one does list as having the wires, so I'm not sure if I should expect to get them. All these screens need a better nomenclature and descriptions on the websites for us to keep them straight.
I just removed the fuse and put a big blob of solder on the 2 connection and called it a day. don't have fuse that small. these things are designed to fail and they want $30 for a new one. 😂
I've had a broken micro I bought over a decade ago for maybe 15bucks. Finally getting skilled enough that I might figure out what is wrong. I always hoped it would be something easy but never had the knowledge or tools like a good multimeter to diagnose it until now. Also, I had a play-yan for my DS back in the day. Crazy to see one again.
First comment I have ever written and it goes to you. Not only did the knotted string work (and this was after hours of trying other ways from myself, friends, and finally other videos) but when I went to replace the bulb it was intact. Either a loose bulb or dust was the source of my problem. Here’s my point - I shudder to think of how much time, frustration, and money I would have spent on labor and a ‘new bulb’ had you not made this video. Thank you for saving me all that and I wish the best for you and your channel.
Hey friend, my controller's gyro it's not working correctly, I wanted to ask if you know where the gyro piece is so I can see what i can do. You think it's dead or it can be saved? thanks for sharing your video
When soldering the 2 wires, they don’t end up crisscrossing like the oem speaker? Top wire was soldered to the hole closest to label SP1 while bottom wire was soldered to the hole closest to label C49
Just ordered my kit. I def would buy a Gameboy Pocket version of this motherboard/and screen just for that form factor. My first GB was a silver pocket and it still feels like home to me.
hey i've replaced fuse F2 previously and just checked and its blown again. It was fine for years but one day i tried to turn on power and it didn't manage it; blew the fuse. I've done quite a few mods to this system. IPS screen, flex amp, there's a raspberry pi pico in the top lid (connected at C2 on the power switch & negative terminal of battery), flash cart, as well as the GBA SP Power cleaner mod. The power cleaner I think is probably the biggest current draw on initial power on. I've previously measured something like 630 mah draw when it's initially trying to charge all those capacitors, which goes down like 50% or 60% or something once it has them all charged. so yeah there's a lot more going on there than fuse F2 was designed to handle, and I think that is probably the issue. A few vendors sell 1.5 amp fuses as a replacement for F2. Would you recommend a higher rated 1.5 amp fuse, or try to remove some mods? It's kind of not great if this very tiny fuse will keep failing once a year or so.
