You can access the oil pressure sensor from behind the wheel by taking off the wheel well plastic or you can go underneath the car it’s under to the water pump above the control arm you didn’t need to take all that apart
I just did that job. BTW , the socket they sell will not work -better to remove the oil temp sender (will be really tight) and open up a 1” box wrench for the pressure sender (1 ⅙” box/27 mm will slip - why can't they just make standard hex on these things?)
This part has been revised 3 times……the oem is high temp plastic and aluminum box with a coiled tube inside……there’s 2 plug sensors attached for oil pressure and oil temp…..it’s fed by a coolant line on the back…..the first one that failed sent coolant down my bell housing and my Jeep overheated immediately….not fixing it on the side of the road…..called AAA to tow to dealer……the clamp that holds the coolant line on the back failed……68k miles….$200 part and 6 hours of labor to R&R……I replaced another one at 98k on my 2012 JKU…. The left head developed a small crack between cylinders and burned off coolant and the 3.6 always ran hot……the dealer said they checked everything and all was good…..they just didn’t want to replace the head……I got tired of the bs and ended up doing an LT1/10L90 swap……all better now……the 3.6 is an alright motor for stock but not for a modified Jeep imo
