I've watched so many videos to prepare to change my thermostat and this was the most informative by far. Thank you!! I really appreciate how thorough you were. I wish your client had opted to change the water pipe, but glad you still covered it for us. lol I'm impressed you did all this without even unscrewing the expansion tank.
This guy explained everything perfectly. It's still a nightmare working on this car. Bought a 2010 r56 last Feb with only 78k miles on it. So far, I've replaced the timing chain, the clutch, the ac compressor and vacuum hoses. I've also replaced the water pump when I did the timing chain beside it was there, a new battery. New KN air intake and a performance intercooler. New thermostat housing and sll new silicone piping in the mail. Let's hope I'm done with maintenance for a few years beside the oil changes
Recommend to install two oil catch cans (one's with the baffle, a dip stick, and quick drain petcock), one to the dirty side, the other to the clean side of the vacuum take offs from the valve cover. This will greatly reduce carbon buildup in the intake. Else, try seafoam treatment at least once a year to the dirty side vacuum hose (on the rear back corner of the valve cover, nearest the timing chain). I do this with about 6-8 oz of liquid Seafoam in a plastic dixie (throw-away) cup...carefully using my thumb to regulate the vacuum suction and carefully drawing (so as not to stall and hydrolock the engine) small amounts of the seafoam from this cup until it's empty. I do this with the engine already at running temperature and at an RPM of 2000. Once all the seafoam is taken into the intake, I shut the engine off, reseat the vacuum hose/clamp, and then let the treatment sit for 30-45 minutes. Then, I run the car ( at higher revs of 4000 in the beginning 3-5 minutes) for a good twenty minutes to blow out the excess carbon. I've done this about 5 times on my Mini R55 Cooper S over the last few years and it really helps with avoiding nasty carbon buildup on the top of the intake valves. The car will blow smoke for a good five minutes, at first...that's all of the nasty carbon getting purged. Doing this the first time and you will quickly see how easy it is to do this regularly. I also use the seafoam...about 4 ounces...to the oil fill when I am near an oil change (about 100 to 200 miles before that change). This is to reduce varnish buildup and gunk to the engine internals (AND the oil line to the turbo!). I do this once a year. I also change the oil and oil filter at a frequency of every 5000 miles with 5W-30 full synthetic.
I was quoted by a reputable mini mechanic that it would be a 6hr job because he had to remove the front end and the radiator of the car. Your how to video allowed me to do it myself. Thank you. Very detailed video. :)
I actually forgot to put the hose clamp on the hose that goes to the turbo and only realised it when I was bleeding the air out. Had to take everything apart again to secure it properly. Can now do it with my eyes closed :)
Nice job! on point straight to the point! this is the way repair videos should be! keep up the good work. you saved me time, that;s money! Ill will subscribe!
Great video finally I've removed the old one. My 2011 S R56 is a bit different (don't know why the wire harness is so hard to get it out of the way) but it worked. Now I will begin to install the replacement in the next few days. Thank you
For the high pressure fuel pump I was quoted $970 for the part and $240 for labor. (Not dealer) For the Thermostat I was quoted $780. total. Not too crazy for labor but the parts from BMW are way too expensive. The failed thermostat had lasted 6 years and it was a cheap aftermarket brand. So I went with aftermarket this time too.
Thank you for the video. It was really helpful to be able to watch again and again as I was doing the work. It took about 3 hours and saved a bunch of cash.
How do you know if the thermostat is opening? Just did this job and bleed the system, temps climbs to 230 and then back down to around 218 F. So seems to be working but the coolant in the reservoir never changed, like if the coolant from the block never came out. Thanks.
A fab video, can't wait to tackle this one and looking forward to some torn up skin on my hands 😳. Quick question, I'm planning on changing the plastic crossover water pipe at the same time as it's over 10 years old now. Is this simple to do? I've seen some people say you only need to pull it off to get it out, or does the inlet manifold need to be removed? Thanks! 👍
On some models she can pull toward you and you’ll have to twist left and right to get it to detach and come out there’s also gonna be a wire loom clipped to the side of the pipe that may be difficult to get off.
Great video! I was able to remove the housing, but mine has the temp sensor running through the bleeder valve. The position of the bleeder valve on the new housing will not allow it to fit. Have you ever come across this problem? 2011 Mini Cooper S
Yes there are two different types. One with the angled sensor and one with the sensor straight out. Which in some vehicles it impedes the housing from going in.
I just changed out my thermostat housing (R56 model)... My heater is not working now.. (was working before thermostat replacement).. now only blows cold air when turning on heater.. Also, I noticed even though I filled the coolant expansion tank to the FULL line but when I left engine on for 10 minutes the coolant went ABOVE the line.. And yes I bled the thermostat using the bleeding screw. No leaks whatsoever.. left clean flat LONG cardboard right under thermostat housing on the ground. Any suggestions on how to fix heater? And why the coolant is overflowing..
I found the the tube connection under the intake to be the hardest part... I finally realized that one installation of the new part you can install the clip without the t stat in place then make sure you lube the end that goes in and give the new t stat a good balls deep push until you hear the click...and its in...then put the 3 bolts in etc
I'm going to be tackling this project in the next week or so. Thanks for the 'balls deep' tip! I'll be sure ind give her a good solid balls deep thrust.
interesting, he shows a genuine bmw part in the video but the link is for an aftermarket part. I've been told via countless mini owners to use only oem parts and not aftermarket as they are prone to failure.. Has anyone used the linked parts with no issues??
I used an aftermarket cheap one and it lasted 6 months. Highly recommend dishing out the over $100 for the OEM brand housing so you don't have to do it twice, and also replace that water pipe it connects to as well!!
Hello,I have 2f1a eror code on my 2007 r56 Cooper s.And var radiator fan working after start level 2,after close 5 min working.What does it mean ? Can you help me :(.And car performance down :(
How do I know I need to replace it ? My mini is not blowing cold air what can I do for it to start working it has ac coolant and I also replaced the Compressor
The thermostat is only for the engine temperature control. There is quite a few things that can prevent the AC from working. And it may be worth paying somebody to check it out. And if it’s a simple repair maybe you can do that yourself or have them do it at the same time.
3:10 what happens if you accadently have them swapped? My buddy just replaced his thermostat housing and now his car is running like crap. A bunch of codes. Manufacture code, random missfire code, missfire cylinder 2 and cylinder 4 and there was a temp sensor code but apparentliy it went away. Any idea ? Please help. :)
Thanks for this video everything went great BUT......after replacing the new thermostat the new issues came to light ... The engine cooling pipe started pouring so I replaced the gasket and it’s still leaking , not sure what’s up have you seen this ? And no it wasn’t leaking before and I have checked there is nothing in the hole where the pipe goes but it just doesn’t look right with nothing holding it in place but the pressure of the theremostat .. Any help with the new is sure would be great.. Again thanks for this video ...never as easy or clean as ya think,,,,
Did you replace the metal C-clip? It's kinda of unclear in the video because the guy is still narrating about the bolts when the video cuts to him holding the clip. (It's obvious he recorded the audio after the video). The part of him holding the clip starts at 11:08.
Chances are the end of the water pipe broke that connects to the housing. Unfortunately you'll have to replace it, and it's at least 70 bucks for the OEM one which is RIDICULOUS because it's literally a plastic tube lol
Need a bit of help! Has anyone ever experienced this symptom when the obd2 code is p1116 present, so the car seems not to accelerate once started after a few seconds. I can put it in drive but the car won’t move fast even if I punch it to the floor. Any information on this would help
I've changed thermostat in a few cars I just cant believe how messed up this one is going to be.... I literally couldn't see the thermostat housing which is why I was looking on youtube...... no wonder I couldn't see it
So my wife took her 2011 mini in and holy shit....these guys want to replace the whole freaking car. They are claiming that the rear tail lights are melting and need replaced $2600, the water pump/thermostat are bad $1700, and the spark plugs are faulty $200. Me being mechanically inclined is starting to question the dealership. So I've checked out some vids and wow....this setup is really over complicated. I've worked on some difficult stuff, but this is a whole new level of overcomplicated. They based the water pump/thermostat being bad by just a pressure test and leak......that doesn't sound like the entire thing needs ripped out, more like a gasket is worn. Keep in mind she's been driving this a week and I haven't seen a coolant leak in the driveway at all. It just sounds suspect I guess for a simple yellow check engine light. i would think a red blinking holy shit light would be flashing if it were over heating? Any advice?
Ozone The Great I mean for what it’s worth, and it’s a lot, I’d change it yourself. Save you’re self nearly 5 grand. Seeing as you’re mechanically inclined it should be a good irritating process lol. I’m going to change my thermostat housing this weekend l, looking forward to the frustration from it being overly complicated. But knowing I’m saving tons is well worth it :)
What is the ballpark estimate for a professional to do this. My 08 Coop S leaks coolant intermittently, sometimes it's like a water fall after shut down (25 miles to work) sometimes a little, sometimes no leak. I also noticed that the coolant water will boil in the expansion tank, but the amber , nor the red Engine light NEVER comes on. Sometimes the cabin heater will blow very hot, other times nothing but cold air
Sam Anne if the court level gets too low the light will not come on and cause it to overheat. You may have an oil leak causing the gaskets to swell that’s the actual culprit for the coolant leak. If I remember right this is about a two hour job so at the shop it be about 200 to 225.
thanks and yes I do have an oil leak, Ive also noticed a light spray film of coolant on my hatchback door, indicating that coolant is being passed through the combustion chambers. My Mini is 96k ODO , I attempted to buy a new one over the weekend but I am way to far upside down for the transaction to be affordable. So I am stuck with this one for a few more years at least. The come away is, that I try to refurb this one and MAKE IT OEM "new" ,and forgo the curb appeal of saying I have a '18 in my driveway
Sam Anne If you have coin going to the combustion chamber that’s a pretty serious problem. Hopefully that’s not the case. Deafly try to fix all the oil leaks and Coolant leaks up front.
