Replacing the Timing belt and head gasket on an MGF 

Maybe the machine shop who you were paying to do that put that in your head 🤔

very good video, from a very talented mechanic well done!

Grazie mille, Marco! :)

Brilliant, thank you very much! Do let us know if you need any assistance :)

The cambelt will obviously be due for replacement. Yes, the MGF and TF had issues with failing head gaskets. We sell a multi layered replacement that cures the problem. Most people change the water pump as a matter of course, seeing as you are that far into the job, but it's not known to have any inherent faults. The process for both vehicles is the same.

Hi there, Yes, the shim must be used, even if cylinder head resurfacing work has not taken place. The shim should be fitted with the black coated side to the cylinder head. Hope that helps :)

Thanks a lot! :)

And 2:08 shows exactly why my car won't start after the HG job. I put the exhaust pulley 180° out of phase and I lined up the two lines instead! I don't think any valves touched the pistons as it rotated freely by hand before trying to start. Hopefully will be up and running fully in half an hour! :)

Aaaand it's alive! Finishing off tomorrow. Thanks for the video. It helped a lot, considering my silly mistake!

Well done, Jim. An excellent example of why we do these videos. Keep it up! :)

Hi there. You will have to put a straight edge onto the block and check for deformities. Or take it off and let a specialist check for you.

Thank you for the feedback James!

Anyone that’s had anything to do with owning cars and the slightest diy knowledge would know what a windy gun was. If you haven’t heard or don’t understand don’t attempt this job😂🤦‍♂️👍

I've never heard it called that, but I'm on the other side of the world! We call them "rattle' guns, as in "rattle it up tight!" @@bobhenson9867

Just general motor factors gasket sealant. Most types will suffice.

Hi, Yes the part numbers on our website rimmerbros.com are LVB500190A and RP1078. You should use the uprated oil rail with this kit.

Nope, you should be ok as the pistons will have been halfway down the bore. Take off the cambelt, line everything up and refit. Then turn 2x revolutions to make sure it all lines up.

Sorry for the late reply, We've just done a similar video on a Rover 75 1.8 turbo which is the same engine basically and gives more insight into the bleeding process.. The simple answer is that they're a pain to bleed. It takes time and patience.

Generally they are 23mm but there was never a set period between the two choices. Sorry I can't be more specific. Best to measure it I'm afraid.

Yes, you absolutely do.

Rimmer Bros TV (can you send me a link to the head gasket please mate)

@@maxer1694 These are the kits that we do. You'll no doubt want the uprated kit rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID018813

I'm afraid we can't give you a total costing for this job including labour, but if you'd like to forward your details to Sales@rimmerbros.com , we'd be happy to put together a quotation for any of the parts which you require. The temp sensor, which operates the gauge on the dash remains in the same position on the engine throughout production, Could you perhaps be referring to the location of the thermostat? This was indeed relocated on the later cars and the pipework for the later setup can be retrofitted onto earlier models, this is quite an involved task though I'm afraid, not something we'd suggest tackled by a diy mechanic. Please see the attached extract from our MG F&TF parts catalogue for further detail. "The thermostat fitted to MGF models and pre-2003 model year MG TF models is of a traditional type located inside a housing bolted to the engine. The thermostat can be replaced in its housing, in time honoured fashion, as required. It may be found below in Engine Mounted Thermostat & Housing. From September 2003 onwards (from VIN 4D) and intermittently from January 2003, a Pressure Relief Thermostat (known variously as ‘PRT’ or ‘PRRT’ pressure relief remote thermostat) was introduced on the MG TF. Its purpose was to reduce thermal shock on the engine (and subsequent strain on the cylinder head gasket) by introducing a softer cycle of cold and hot coolant through the engine as the thermostat opened and closed during high speed running. The PRT’s location was further away from the engine inside a sealed assembly inserted in the hose run to the underfloor pipes. As the ‘sealed’ suggests, this assembly must be replaced as a single unit - it can be found later in this section under Pressure Relief Thermostat & Hoses. When the PRT was introduced, the old engine-mounted thermostat housing was retained in the cooling system, but a restricting flange was fitted inside it in place of the thermostat to ensure water pump flow was still governed correctly. At the same time, the water flow through the radiator was reversed. The radiator was not modified, since being a crossflow type it can operate either way, but considerable changes in the cooling system routing were required. Also from January 2003 the MG TF automatic (CVT Steptronic) was given a PRT, but the layout and hose runs differ significantly to those on the manual cars, throwing further complexity into the already complicated MGF/TF hose layout history. The PRT system was successful, and can be retro-fitted to MGFs and earlier TFs if desired. A good understanding of cooling system principles is however required to correctly carry out the necessary modifications to the engine bay pipework unfortunately not a job for the average DIYer."

@@RimmerBrosTV still trying to work out if gonna buy one with these issues ir just do a toyota yarus engine swap. 1.5 vvti from newish range. My yaris 1.8 sr has been great so still an option for it to give its heart for the swap.

@@RimmerBrosTV what year did the changes take place. Im looking at a 2004 model in 1.6.

no that's 180 in sequence then another 180 in sequence not 360 once

Please call John paul on 07766 774279. Thanks.

Vehicle condition and preparation will vary repair times and we appreciate that each and every car will be slightly different. This video has been produced to help owners visualise the task and although some editing has to take place for production reasons, the work carried out is accurately represented in the film.

@@RimmerBrosTV Sorry its a great video, just warning to others with respect to problems with the car. Be prepared for LOTS more work than you might expect on face value esp. as these cars only get older....

Hi there, We would advise you seek professional advice from a certified mechanic. Hope this helps!

@@RimmerBrosTV done it my self am based in albania no suck certified mechanics here 😂 am now having overheating on the engine but the gage and the numbers inside the car says normal running temp when I open the oil cup air coming out and the thermostat pipe dead cold when the other is burning hot what could it be now cheers

Lol, no they didn't.

That's a no a Lotus owner

The dowels are just for stability really. As JP points out in the video, it is the old rubber seals that led to most failures and that the uprated kit gasket solves. To answer your question though, they come in our entire uprated kit as metal dowels, part no: ZUA000080. Or as standalone individual parts on their own, part no: LYU000010

Rimmer Bros TV many thanks

Thank you for your feedback Peter. Absolutely! We aim to show you these videos for this reason: If you are mechanically minded and feel confident to take on the job then you can use our videos as a guide while referring to the workshop manual. If you do not feel confident to take on the job, do not attempt it - take it to your local mechanic/ garage to carry out the work. At least having watched our video you have a better understanding of the process :)

The filming took much longer than 3 hours lol!

You think that's hard? Really? 😂😂

Yes , an engine in that position can not give anything else but problems

@@k.kristianjonsson4814 mate, it looks a hell of a lot more accessible than some of the modern, bigger engines saloons I've worked on. Just try and take a starter motor, or an ac pump off a Jag xf 3.0d. Or what about the bmw n47 2.0d that requires the engine to come out for a timing chain job because it's on the back. The mg looks tons easier to work on than many cars.

@@jamieswain4888 You probably right. You can always find something worse. My reference point is my Volvo 940 where you can sit down beside the engine.

@@k.kristianjonsson4814 lucky sod. Me and my dad took the engine out of the jag xf to get the crank reground and new bottom end bearing after it spun one. Absolute fucking joke to work on.