I've been smelling exhaust for ages and haven't gotten around to actually properly diagnosing the leak. This video gives me confidence that I can absolutely do all of this myself!
I appreciate the appreciation! I started recording in 60fps, makes a big difference! Try the vacuum trick to find out if it's the same issue, should only take a couple minutes.
Im having the same issue right now and i was trying to find a way to keep the bolts coming loose because they always loosen up. I really appreciate this video, excellent camera angles, and explains everything perfectly!
Thanks dude I just recently started to smell exhaust fumes in the cabin. I didn’t know about that shop vac in the tail pipe and use soapy water to find the leak
Great video...I'm no pro, but the only thing I would have done was change the downpipe. The one you have looks like it's stock and rising away, I just got mine disassembled and now waiting for a sleeve. I too was smelling fumes and know that was my issue. I'm keeping my car and going to stage 3 at some point and and installing a 3 inch cat less downpipe. Your video gave me something else to replace that I didn't even think about!
Great video! I have a strong fuel / exhaust odor coming into the cabin during stationary idle as you did, and I’m suspecting either the flex section of the downpipe having a leak, or possibly a gasket leak like yours. This gives me more confidence to do the job myself. Thank you -
Awesome, happy to help! If it's the flexpipe you can unplug your o2 sensors and bring the whole downpipe to a welding shop and have them weld on a new one. For example, here's one that even comes with the gasket and new hardware amzn.to/377J6IH or you could go with just the flexpipe itself amzn.to/3rOQKkP. Tbh the money you'd save on the second one you'd probably spend on labor but up to you.
Bought a 1.8t a few days ago , extremely loud I thought it was the muffler at first turns out it was missing a turbo mounting bolt , put a bolt in and then the other bolt was missing the next day , the car felt a lot better after I put the new bolt in and I could notice less power rough idle and more noise as I drove it until I got home and discovered the missing bolt
I just picked up a 2000 vw new beetle with the 1.8 turbo. It smells like exhaust really bad under the hood and in the cabin. Im hoping this videos information can cross over to my beetle.
I didn't notice it being louder but it would make sense that it could. I have had noise issues in the past however where the sleeve at 2:35 rotted. Good luck!
Hello adam if i loosen the 4 downpipe nuts can i change the gasket from up from the hood??? Or i must to take it off under and middle of the car too??? Sorry with my English... Thanks
You might be able to change the gasket without removing the coupler in the middle of the car, but I doubt you could reach from above. You'll need to be under the car
Thank you very much with your video I find the same leaks I smell exhaust in my car and with boost at 4000rpm and then I hear loud noise. And something else between the manifold and the turbo can I use w40 or brake cleaner or thin sandpaper to clean inside that area or is not necessary so much work if the gasket do the job???
Great video, I did this fix but couldn't find the putty. Now it's leaking again. I'm going to buy the putty now, how is yours holding up? I see they make a plate that folds over the bolts. Do you recommend that or the putty?
@@rogosteve tbh I ended up giving the car to a friend of mine, doubt he'd be able to tell. I'll see if I can drive it next time I see him and I'll let you know
Did your car idle rough and/or stall? I did the shop vac test and have a leak where you did on the turbo. Car runs really rough on idle and wants to stall. Thanks, great video.
@@adamdport 17705, and a few throttle body codes. I cleared the codes, did throttle body adaptation. Cleaned throttle plate. Codes gone for a week. 17705 came back with a rough idle/stalling. Did boost leak test, dv removed and tested. N75 tested ohm. All checked out. Vcds block 33 stft is bouncing around -25 so I'm running rich. Tested the exhaust with the vac and could feel air blowing out between turbo and manifold. Thought maybe that was my problem.
@@rogosteve the gasket I replaced was on the exhaust side of the turbo, not the boost side, so while you should get it fixed I don't think it will solve your problem. When you say you did a boost leak test, did it hold pressure? My guess is either N75 (ohms just checks the coil, could still be gummed up) or vacuum/pcv lines. Do you have a friend with a mk4 that you can borrow the n75 from to try?
@@adamdportI tested to 22psi with the oil cap removed. So air escapes from there but I found many leaks previously with this setup. When the air goes down I dial the compressor back up and look for hissing. I have another used n75 I could swap in and check. Car runs great when driving, just the idle is awful at a stop or slowing down. Would a bad n75 cause just the idle to be bad and drive good under load? Thanks
@@rogosteve I've never removed the oil cap while checking for leaks, the intake connects to the valve cover via the diverter valve so that seems counterproductive to me. If you've got an N75 it's a 5 minute install so I'd try it to rule it out. But without seeing I'd guess it's a vacuum line (which you'd hear with the pressure test). Could try the propane test too when checking for vacuum leaks
I put all the part numbers in the description, they're not available on amazon as far as I could tell. FCPEuro will probably have most of them, but some I had to order from the dealer. Good luck!
I've had bad luck using a torque wrench on oil pans (they end up leaking) but in general torque wrenches ensure it's as tight as it's designed to be. Too tight and you can strip the bolt, have uneven pressure on the gasket, or when working with exhaust parts like this can cause things to break when they expand as they heat up. The wrench is less than $20 at harbor freight, no reason not to really
