If your ratcheting wrenches are the icon brand from harbor freight, I've also been super surprised with how good they are. If not, no worries. I'm sold on ratcheting wrenches now. I might even buy more just because.
I opted to go with a husky brand set, and they seem to be good quality too. I haven't really put them through their paces yet, but for what I use them for I'm very happy. I've heard good things about the Icons too. Thanks for watching!
Yeah, I'm a little worried that might be my problem. Is it even possible to do that with the engine in the car? The lower oil pan needs to come off right? I'd love to pull the engine and do a full refresh at some point when I move to a place with more space to work. I figured I'd handle it then lol thanks for watching
@@JDMDrivewaysorry late reply. I am going to attempt to fix my leak while it is in the car tomorrow. The subframe will need to be dropped while the engine is supported by a hoist. I’ll lyk how it goes or if I’m able to find an easier way to do it.
@@JDMDrivewayokay I’m back! If you’re getting leaks from where the timing cover meets the headgasket then stop, and check that there are the two bolts in the top of the timing cover that go through the head. You will have to take the valve cover off to inspect them. If that is good then you could try putting rtv on the outside around the headgasket and pray it works as it isn’t a high oil pressure area. If that didn’t work then you will have to either pull the engine or drop the subframe. I’m went for the subframe. You’ll have to lift the engine and keep it supported via a hoist or straps and then you can put a Jack under the bell housing for added support. I decided to do my bushings while I was down there so I unbolted the sway bar, and then the a arm along with hub leaving the coilovers suspended and zip tied the brakes to them. Next you’ll have 4 bolts for the subframe. Double check your engine is supported and undo your engine mounts. Slowly undo the subframe with a Jack or buddy under it to help lower it down. Now you can drain oil, take off the lower oil pan, then the baffle, then the upper oil pan which should have two bolts in it connected to the timing cover (my previous owner did not put them back in). Lastly the timing cover, the whole reason for this mess. Remove the harmonic balancer, and then take the water pump pulley off you’ll also need to take off your power steering should be around 4 bolts I think and just set it to the side. Then it’s the 10 bolts on the timing cover don’t forget the two really high up behind the PS which should be removed and up in the top left. Pull it off and clean replace the oil pump O ring and front main seal then rtv bead around it lightly and seal it up. You might want to fashion a gasket or use rtv for where the pickup meets the pump too. I was missing a great deal of bolts so I ordered a kit ~$100 with shipping from mazworx called “Mazworx SR20 Engine Bolt Kit” shipped really fast too. Anyways that’s the gist sorry it’s long but lmk if you have any questions or if replacing that front main seal fixed your problem
@garagemonkey526 dude!! What a beast, thank you so much for the write up!! The front main seal solved most of my leaking problem causing oil drips under the car, but the timing cover is definitely still leaking a tiny bit. I'll have to see if I want to undertake this project! Haha thanks again for the info, I really appreciate you taking the time to write it up!!
