Thank you Sir, for all of your videos! I have a '99 and learn a lot from you. You definitely have the best how to videos on RU-vid and we all appreciate them very much.
Hola Mr. Gordon. Im the lady that give you a hug at truck center, finally im able to see your great video. thank you so much for your videos hope to see you again around the area.
@@MrDesoto33 it is i already done bunch of stuff on it just by watching youtube i have no prior mechanical experience. its very easy to work on and relatively cheap parts
You might want to flush the cooling system, it looks a little gunky. Non foaming powdered dish washer detergent works real well, about 2 cups per flush. Couple detergent flushes with the heat on so you clean out the heater core as well. Then repeat with clean water twice. The red pre charged SCA coolant with equal parts distilled water will get your cooling system balanced, proper PH and all.
Using pepper vs. stop leak is a much better idea. It stops leaks as good as stop leak without stopping up radiator lines or doing damage. It can easily be flushed out. Pepper as in salt and pepper.
I keep seeing 60 series with new thermostats that are stuck open. The bottom seal is crooked and binding. They have a special tool at the detroit distributor that seats these seals at the perfect alignment to the thermostat landing. It’s a big block of machined steel. If you don’t have one, id suggest bringing the housing into a detroit distributor and having them install the seal for you. Last ditch effort, a depth gauge to make sure it’s even depth all around. Engine oil is used around the seal to piston area. That’s from the book. What’s not from the book is loosing power and breaking up, because the engine can’t get past 176 deg f when EGR starts to flow. Poor truck wouldn’t get past 170 deg f. No codes, fixed it with experience.
It looks like at some point in the past the engine was getting some oil in the cooling system. When oil and coolant mix it causes rubber to swell two or three times it’s normal size. I would bet that is why the t-stat gaskets were so swollen.
On my 12.7 60 series two days ago my temp hand went out and is sitting on a 100 and the heat still gets kinda hot but I’m thinking it could be the temp sensor, just seeing if you had that problem Mr Gordon
Mr. Robertson, I’m having a heck of a time and perhaps you can help. I have a 14L pre egr that has been rebuilt 145k miles ago. It runs great but won’t build heat. I changed the thermostats and radiator with no luck. It’s fine during the summer but idling it in winter drops the temp to 110 degrees and causes oil loss, unburnt fuel from the exhaust and lots of blue smoke. It doesn’t like the cold to say the least. Idling it up helps but barely gets to 145 in very cold weather. Detroit diesel did the rebuild but aren’t much help because I live in Florida and the temp is never where I can duplicate the problem. I’m at the point of changing the water pump but I doubt that’s causing the problem. It stays a constant 183 degrees when it’s working but idle it and it drops right down to 110 or below. The fan doesn’t stay on and it doesn’t lose a drop of oil in 15k miles in warmer temps. There is no contamination of fluids and I tried the bubble test from the reservoir overflow tube. No bubbles. Any help you can give would be appreciated. Thank you.
You do need to idle it up to at least 800 to 1000 when parked for any length of time, the cooling system is just too big to maintain any heat when not pulling a load. You might also need to cover the grill when in cold weather, most of the drivers on my local job cover their grill in the winter because we sit and wait for much of the day. I hope your fan isn't staying on too much. The water pump is not the problem. Good luck, let me know what you find.
I do idle it up. I parked up in Fargo for a reset this winter and couldn’t get 145 out of it at 1300 rpm with a winter front on. The fan never comes on until it gets to 195 in the summer. Once it is under any load, she climbs right up to 183 in the coldest of temps. I suppose it’s better than having overheating issues but I’d like to figure it out before next winter. Thank you for your input.
I had the same problem and like the other guy said you have to cover the grill. You may have to uncover it if it gets too hot idling. Then again the really cold weather always does this to some degree.
my truck is a 2007 freightliner century detroit 60 series 14 liter engine and am I losing 2 gallons of colant in 400 miles? 2 months ago his hoses burst and he lost all the colant ... but it does not heat up, what do you think it could be?
Could this bad thermostat be a reason why my truck is leaking antifreeze but I can’t find where it’s going? It’s not going into the motor thank god, also while I’m driving a truck I get my heating to work regularly, as soon as I stop it gets cold air in..
Well done. I have a question, though partially off-topic to what the video covered.... Why don't we see water filters on big trucks anymore? Used to be when you looked under the hood, you'd find oil filters, fuel filters, and a water filter. What has changed in the last 25-ish years that we don't need to filter our coolant anymore? Or what was so drastically different about the way it used to work back then that we needed filters for the coolant?
Someone else will have to answer that. I never new why they had a water filter in the first place. Maybe for using tap water high in minerals that left white deposits in the radiator and heater core, or maybe the filter can reduce electrolysis, I don't know.
@@57bagre I agree, that's why OEMs are against using plain tap water. At a bare minimum they want distilled water. My old Cummins CM570 which runs on plain green coolant does have what it looks like a water filter but it's actually a canister for time released SCAs for the coolant but does not provide filtration.
Not a mechanic but I've been reading up on this and apparently the new extended service OAT (organic acid) coolants are not supposed to have SCA additive coolant filters. Most coolant filters have SCA, so either you have to use a blank filter or remove the filter entirely.
There's no gasket between the housing that holds the thermostats and the block? Not questioning your work just thought there would be something there or some rtv there.
Yes it will run cold. I didn't have enough heat this winter because of that and what's worse, the engine rarely got to proper running temperature which will cause uneven engine wear.
A stuck thermostat can cause the motor to run hot which will cause excessive coolant pressure. If the motor isn't running hot then it's not thermostats building pressure, it could be air getting in the cooling system from a head gasket. If you do not have water filters on your motor you can put some stop leak in and seal up a head gasket leak or bypass water filters and use stop leak for a couple months and if it fixes it you can change your antifreeze and put your filters back in line.
@@57bagre NO!,NO!, NO! Use pepper vs. stop leak. I had to get a new radiator because the stop leak clogged the radiator lines stopping water flow. Pepper works just as good and will flush out. You can always add some more if you flush it out. It will sometimes break loose when changing from winter to summer and vice versa but you don't have to worry about ruining your radiator etc.
Make sure you take it out from hose top to bottom dont be lazy n try twisting it from side to side. Thermostat lil metal hooks grab spring intend to come off then pplz wonder y truck dont get hot in cold snow weather
Yes I agree flushing for new coolant and I don’t know but maybe invest in a head camera mount if your going to keep making these instructional videos please jumping the camera around no good like the video tho thanks
