Nice job. Replacing the plugs and wires on my 2jz right now and I thought I might replace the valve cover gaskets while I’m in there but nah, that’s a lot of extra work. I’ve done my Subaru valve cover gaskets before, the instructions are 1) remove valve covers, 2) clean and replace gaskets, 3) remount valve covers. 🙂
This is an excellent video. It me gave the confidence to do the same to my '95 SC300. The task went well. I was unable to fit my hand in the space to remove the EGR tube. I removed the EGR studs (they accept a 5mm socket) and just left the EGR valve attached to the tube. Doing this is more simple, and quicker than pulling the tube off. I did not reinstall the studs, I used bolts instead. The bottom bolt (cap screw) was about 2.5 inches long. I tightened two jam nuts together where the threads ended. In effect, it was a doubled headed cap screw. It was pretty easy to install.
Yeah, that's a pretty tight space. I had red marks on my right forearm, snaking my hand underneath the brake booster in order to get the wrench in there to remove the tube LOL. Anywho, so you just removed two 5mm EGR bolts to free the TB, and then you later refabbed your own EGR bolts during the reinstall? Nice!
I'm having the same issue i cant find a combination of sockets/extensions to get to even the top bolt😞 what was it you did? Need some help here from hawaii
@@strumpeteer What do you have now? I've had my SC for over a year and I'm never getting rid of it. How come you haven't posted anything, it's been over 2 years?
Any links or part #? I'm already half way in thru my job but i might have to buy that alternate manifold to avoid all this next time. Im stuck trying to get the lower egr pipe bolts rn. Cant seem to get the right combo of extensions/swivels. What a pain
You can start the video @6:07 for the picture of the products used and process. A strong degreaser was first used to remove excess oils and grease followed up by a strong paint stripper gel. After the covers were thoroughly washed and dried, they were wire brushed and then sanded down. After a second wash and dry, paint thinner was then used to wipe covers before priming and painting. Several light coats of spray enamel ceramic primer was used and left to dry for an hour. Several light coats sprayed 10 minutes apart of enamel ceramic paint was used as the final step. The covers were left to dry / cure overnight before installing on the vehicle.
The front water bypass is scary since when I'm doing mine and you have to stretch the rubber hose a bit to get it back on the throttle body then the y-pipe. I wish there was a better way to do it. Makes me really want to do a 2jzgte swap or get a FFIM for better servicing.
You don't have to stretch the hose if you don't want to. First disconnect the other end of this hose from the water outlet bypass neck (the same part the upper radiator hose connects to), then you can pull out the throttle body/ Y-pipe. You may have to move the power steering pump over a bit to gain access to the hose clamp.
Nice video dude. Will be doing this on my supra non turbo next year. Can i ask why you put rtv silicone in the corners? And was that at the back of the engine or the front? Thanks Kevin
Thanks man! The hardest to seal, even with the rubber gasket are the corners. Toyota requires that you put the silicone in to ensure that you have no leaks, which makes sense. That was the front of the engine by the cam sprockets.
Just did this to mine due to a crank but no-start condition, I suspected (fuel) fouled spark plugs and used this as a guide. Then I realized when I took spark plug 1 + 2 out that the valve cover leak was drenching my plugs with oil. So I then decided to go through with the whole thing to prevent further oil leaks on my spark plugs. Anyways today, the battery goes in... I hope for the best,
My car is alive! The spark plug swap did the trick and started like a champ. And I don't see any visual leaks from the valve cover gasket swap. So I'm hoping that cured it once and for all. At this point time will tell if my spark plugs are fouling for other reasons or other methods of entry into the combustion chamber and drenching my plugs with oil. I really appreciate your video man! It was an excellent guide!
MrPandaKitty220 Thanks brutha! That must've felt good and congrats! Oil fouled plugs from leaking valve gaskets (due to old age) is pretty common with this engine. I believe you solved the problem. (knock on wood).
Great video! I am getting ready to do this myself here in a few days and before I dive into it, just wondering, how did you torque the EGR pipe union nut to spec (47 ft*lbf)? In the video, it looks like you just used a normal wrench, but to torque it did you have to use a crow's foot adapter or some other specialized tool? If so, do you have any recommendations on what to look for? Thanks in advance!
Thanks man! The biggest crow's foot wrench I have is 19mm which is way too small for that EGR nut- LOL. I used an adjustable and tightened it by feel until it was "nice and tight" (enough not to leak and not too much to strip the threads). On the other hand, If you want to do it right, use the appropriate sized crow's foot wrench with the open end positioned 90 deg to the shaft of the torque wrench and torque to 47 ft*lbf per factory spec.
Hey man thanks for the great video! I'm gonna be doing this in a few days, would you recommend changing any of the other gaskets (throttle body or Y-pipe etc) while I'm at it? thanks.
Hey thanks for the compliment. According to Toyota-Lexus, the metal gaskets for the Y-pipe, Throttle Body, and EGR pipe are not reusable. So yes, to ensure you have no leaks, I recommend to replace them.
Hey man you did a great job! I have to replace the head gasket on my 93 gs300... do you know of any videos or a good manual to complete this job I know it won't be easy but I'm read to tackle.
Thanks! There are lots of great bits and pieces of videos on head work for the 2jZ, even with commentary, here on RU-vid.com that will give you the general idea how it's done. The Clublexus.com forum community is also a great source of info. For procedures, torque specs and exploded views, I used this site for downloadable PDFs: techinfo.toyota.com. Good luck!
1-1.5 (or more) hours seems fair for seasoned mechanic unless there are problems due to how old your SC is. Remember, this is probably a 20+ year old car in which your mechanic can run into problems disconnecting old hoses and plastic connections breaking them.
I don't have a shop because I'm not a mechanic, I'm an avid DIY'er . I make videos to inspire fellow DIY'ers such as yourself. Thanks for asking though.
strumpeteer thankyou for the quick reply i've opened that but have grinded to a halt on the 2 bottom bolts as one of the pipes at the side has a damaged clip
thank you for such detailed video ! it appears that you know these engines - perhaps you might know : is it doable to mate 2jz ge motor (non vvti) with head (vvti) thank you !
No. I initially changed the valve cover gaskets because of oil present on the right side of the engine block which was coming from valve covers. After removing the valve covers, I found that oil was also getting into the spark plug valleys and puddling around one spark plug.If you have white smoke coming out of your tail pipes all day long, even after your engine has been warmed up, you may have some serious problems.
Yes it's okay! it's the only perfect time to clean metal parts while they are completely removed from the engine. I myself used more than a can of brake cleaner and assorted brushes to clean the throttle body, IAC valve, Y-Pipe and EGR pipe while they were out.BTW, since you mentioned MAF cleaner, please DO NOT USE that stuff on your Air Fuel Meter (Karman Vortex), equipped on 1996 SC's or older.
Great video. Even if I don't do the valve cover gaskets themselves the breakdown process is going to be very helpful for me. On my '92 MT SC300, the exhaust has been smelling quite a bit of gasoline. The oil has a bit of the odor as well. I want to check the plugs for fouling as well as run a compression test... I don't think its the rings or head gasket, but I imagine it could very well be the valve seals if the test shows high or low numbers. I doubt it's the EGR because no codes have been thrown. As of now the car still runs very well. What are your thoughts from what I've described? I know that's a bit like asking for you to look through a crystal ball. Also, do you know if the throttle body needs to be removed to access the plugs for checking and compression testing? Thanks so much for reading and for your consistently excellent videos!
Thanks for compliments. As far as the gasoline smell, your guess is as good as mine. I'd do the same to inspect and replace plugs and do a compression test ,which can tell you alot. Yes, you need to remove the TB to access the plugs (more specifically #3,#4 and #5).
+strumpeteer Thanks, I ended up using a 1/4 drive harbor freight wrench[1] with an adapter. It was small enough to fit under the engine wire but still long enough to break the bolt loose easily. Thanks for the video and the response. 1: www.harborfreight.com/14-in-drive-professional-low-profile-ratchet-62329.html
If you are referring to the clean/ cold air intake, it's simply just a matter to loosening all the worm clamps and then taking each section of the pipe out one by one. if you're talking about the "Y-pipe" coming from the throttle body, then you have to completely remove EGR tube (one union nut and two bolts) and six bolts of the y-pipe itself. See it here: 2:44.
How did you go about getting the lower egr pipe bolts? I cant manage to find a combination of extensions/swivels that will allow me to crank my ratchet once i get it on the bolts😞
@@strumpeteer i had a friend lend me a 1/4" stub and got the pipe out! i took a break for now and gonna start taking out boots and valve cover. im worried ill mix up the boots since im doing a service all at once. any tips to not get mixed up?
Robert Sutton What kind of car do you have? If it's a left hand drive SC300, the stock location of the PCV valve is on the driver's side valve cover. Generally speaking, it doesn't matter which valve cover the PCV valve or breather/ ventillation hose is installed on... as long as they are BOTH installed.
That's because you have an Automatic Transmission and that cable (A/T Cable) changes the line pressure when you accelerate. SC's with manual transmission only have two cables (one for the Accelerator and one for the Cruise Control.
No, but it sure looks that way because that heater hose coming from the block is non-OEM (not molded). You may not see it but that hose is connected directly to the heater core. Thanks for posting.
You can pause the video @6:07 for the picture of the products used. Purple Power was used to remove excess grease. Aircraft Remover (by Rustoleum) used for strip paint. Paint Thinner (by Klean Strip) used to wipe covers before priming and painting. Engine Enamel Ceramic Primer (by Duplicolor) and Engine Enamel Ceramic Paint (by Duplicolor).
According to the official Toyota manual, ALL metal gaskets are NOT REUSABLE. If you a worry-wart and want a piece of mind, replace it. On the other hand, I've been reusing mine three times and I never had any problems. Keep in mind though, this one of the few items that I would reuse because it's easily accessible. In most other instances, for example, the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, I'd replace it with a new one since those are a pain in butt to get to.
