Seth Fenster, let me begin by saying, thank you so much for your helpful tip to run the screen in the grooves first, followed by the rubber spleen. As a D.I. Y. virgin, I try to do what I can in my home on my own. However, replacing my three patio door aluminum screens, with the very thick Suntex 90 screen caused me loads of issues. While trying to install the screen and spleen together, it kept making the material bubble up, wave up and ripple, and I would have to keep starting over with the install. I also suffered the most discomfort in my hands and wrist. Of the three screens I had to replace, it took me two days just to finish my fist screen. After taking an Epsom salt bath, and throwing back pain killers, it took me a week to even attempt to work on the remaining two screens. While searching RU-vid for an easier way to install this very thick Suntex 90 screen, I came across your page, and baby let me tell you, you were the answer to my prayers. I was able to complete the remaining two screens in less than 20 minutes. So, I just gotta say again, thank you, thank you, and thank you. Now, I this is no longer the hardest D.I.Y. project I have attempted.
Thank you! These are actually great tips, most other videos on how to do this don't mention rolling the screen in slightly first, and don't mention that different screen materials are harder to work with. Also, I've mostly seen the spline just rolled in all in one strip and your way looks a lot neater!
I wish I would've seen this video before I rescreened my bedroom windows. The vinyl spline is a job to mash in there. It hurts my hands and wrist. I still need to rescreen the back door. I'm going to get the foam core spline tomorrow. Thanks for the tips. I subbed!
Thanks for the video, the tip about doing the ends first makes all the difference.It will work with aluminum too I got a nice even screen with no waves or ripples Thanks a lot
.................Thanks for explaining the different type of screen splines. I never had a problem with round spine replacement, but this flat screen spline is a super pain --- I can't get it to work right for nothing--even after asking the hardware store and looking on RU-vid..... Thanks for telling me about the foam spline.. I have spent hours trying to install a door screen that should take minutes......
Yes an important little tip that is always left out I agree. There seems to be a fine line between too loose and too tight but I cant seem to get there myself.
I'd also like to know if you have a tip for bowing sides. It's either loose or bows. My screens are 56" x 22" so they're more than twice as tall as they are wide. I have yet to find a middle support rod for screens.
I have a screen in an older metal slider window that gaps in the middle but fits on top and bottom of screen frame. It is 28" w x 58" tall and there is no cross brace - wondering if a brace can be added somehow?
What about the grain of thr screen. I noticed in the mobil home park some screen grains run side to side. And some run up & down. I like the up and down look. Going to do mine in a couple of weeks. Thanks for the incouragement.Tim California
Any words like "You'll figure it out means that you have omitted the helpfulness of this video. How does one keep the proper tension and evenness without distorting the fragile frame while inserting the spline around the perimeter? "You'll figure it out"
What's the widest width for a screen room? (labor and looks) I haven't installed/built the window frame yet. Trying to find out for the best view how wide can the screen stretch before I get bunching and wrinkles? The height of window is 8', longest span is 8.5'thanks P
So, you cut the spline into 4 pieces ? Is the bracket to hold mandatory? What’s an alternative to hold it? I have a large sliding patio door screen. I want to do this on the floor.
At least this video shows someone using a jig. I thought that would be a given. A couple of sticks or even yardsticks, nailed, clamped or even duct taped to a table would do it. Just make sure the jig is square. For the uninitiated, that means at a 45 degree angle. If you do not have a tool to square it use a book or box.
I would say 1/8" spline, it may appear a bit oversized for the groove, but that's a good thing since it keeps the spline in place as it is rolled into the groove. Take a sample of existing spline to your home improvement store and match it up.
I find it odd that none of these videos on youtube talk about how to screen these without bowing the frame.. I've been screening pools for ten years and these windows piss me off. They bow no matter what unless you make them loose
Having the same issue with the long sides bowing in. I’ve tried doing the short sides first and barely pulling tension when splining but still wants to bow inward.
I think you could make more money (or at least spend less time) if you don't flip your frame for each and every side. And there should only be ONE splice in your spline-run and not a splice at each corner. Do you do this full time or part time???
You are totally incorrect. I've been professionally fixing screens for over 40 years. Never take your spline all the way around. This person showed the correct process.
ok...so now why didn't you just demonstrate since you said it wass FUStrating trying to type....its seems FUStrating just trying to speak....thats why your posting a VIDEO not a VOICE MEMO....sheeeshhh
1 screen every 3 1/2 minutes for 8 hours straight. it's possible if you aren't building the frames and are starting with new frames on an assembly line i can guarantee you are not building the frames and screening them that fast.i build them for a living, you are stretching the truth. you are going to have some serious tendonitis coming in the future. btw where are you getting all the work? a factory? that would earn $2600 a day for me retail.i could probably live off of that.
