Another walk in the woods brought results. Today a very old and rusty axe is being restored. Thank you for watching. I hope you will like it. Leave your comments!
Where is everyone learning to hang an axe with a huge shelf on it? That abrupt cut in where the axe sits means all the force of your swing stays in the head and its going to snap and go flying off with extended use or harder woods or knots, it should be a gradual transition. If it's just for aesthetics I get it but that's a solid chopping head so may as well hang properly.
Very nice! There are a lot of idiots commenting here though. Most of us realize that if you find something in the woods, and plan to make a video about the restoration, it is part of the entertainment to go back and film a recreation, for the sake of the video. Good work!
Топор попал к хорошему мастеру и в надежные руки : он из ничего конфетку сделает: все делает по уму ладно и складно , народный умелец , такому все по плечу....
This is the method of hardening with self-tempering. After cooling only the blade, the axe is taken out of the water and the colors are checked for reheating from the remaining uncooled part. Then it is cooled definitively. As far as I can judge, the hardening was successful.
It's more likely that the cooling rate has an effect here. For the initial stage, the oil cooling rate is not enough for carbon steel, but enough for alloy steels. So there is a way to first cool the blade in water, then the whole axe in oil. Or this way as in the video. This method was suggested to me by an old craftsman.
Sorry, but you lost me when you ground out all the wonderful patina. You took all its previous history and life from it… shame. By all means clean up the cutting edge and the top face, then perhaps wire brush the rest and cold blue it?!
@@whyduck9054 I know right? When I saw all that awesome texture, I thought it would look gorgeous blackened with cold blue with a nice polished edge… then the “evil grinder” came out and all the decades of charm disappeared in a matter of seconds 🤷♂️
Thank you, that's a very interesting idea. I will definitely use it in a suitable project. The only thing confusing is that the "cold blue" starts to rust again after a while, especially in the cavities.
I have an old small axe head I found in my dad's cellar. it's all rusty and not as heavily pitted as this one is. wire brush and cold blueing is what I'll do to it besides fitting a new handle
Tempering with self-tempering is widespread in tool production. The peculiarity of this method is that tempering of the product occurs due to the heat remaining in the inner layers after hardening. Practically the hardening with self-tempering is done in the following way. The tool is heated to the hardening temperature, kept at that temperature for the necessary time and then only the working part of the tool is submerged in water. After being removed from the water the tool is left in the air until the working part of the tool is heated to the tempering temperature. The tool is heated by the heat of the part of the tool that has not been immersed in water. The tool is then finally cooled in water or oil. The tempering temperature is determined by the annealing colors by deburring a part of the tool's working surface. Appearance of the color of whiteness during tempering is explained by the fact that at temperatures of 200-300° on a clean polished and ground surface there appear thin layers of oxides.
@@OldRusty Thanks for the explanation. I watch a lot of restoration videos, and most other people quench in oil. My understanding is that water shocks the metal, which is why you see metal flaking off in the water during the quench, whereas oil allows the metal to cool more slowly, thus being a better hardening choice for quenching. Also, the blackening process when quenching in oil is more even and a superior rust proofing, as opposed to the splotchy result from the quench in water. If quenching in water works for you, great, but most other people who make these types of videos use oil.
