The 2 weak parts that could get damaged in a laserprinter while printing unsupported paper are the image drum and the fuser, both are rollers in the printer. The image drum transfers the image to the paper, its delicate and scratches on it will show on prints but this should not happen on smooth paper with clean-cut edges. Generally this is a wear item that is easily replaced, often it's part of the toner cartridge. The fuser melts the toner to fix it to the paper, it's not as sensitive as the image drum but it is heated, it is possible to melt plastic-coated paper or overhead sheets and ruin it, the fuser is often the single most expensive part in the printer. Then there is the issue of your paper being too stiff and not being able to make all turns in the path through the printer resulting in a paper jam. It's hard to damage anything while causing or removing a paper jam except the paper itself.
It looks really good! Last year here in Canada, at Walmart, they were selling these rally cases in a set with a ten pack of hot wheels. It was nice to see Mattel reproduce these! Merry Christmas, I hope you feel better soon! Try some ginger tea with lemon and honey.
I would've plastic-welded that spot near the hinge, it's just as strong if you do it right and turns out a lot cleaner than that if you have good technique. All you'd need is a soldering iron at the least. For the red paint I would've painted it by hand with a brush (brushes with curled bristles paint raised areas with good precision) or a rubber roller then touch up with a brush when done. Only downside is the rubber rollers aren't always easy to work with so I always opt for curled-bristle brushes of varying sizes. If you rough up your painting surface with 800-400 grit it will paint a lot easier too! For polishing I haven't had much luck with buffing wheels (with or without polishing compounds), but you should try a headlight-restoration kit some time. It's just a 4-step procedure: 1 clean, 2 wet-sand (2,000 grit I think) with a drill, 3 polish with a drill and compound, 4 wipe clean. They excel at removing fade & yellowing then leaving a glass-like sheen. Find a kit that comes with the sanding pads and foam polishing pad as well as the polish and chucks for your drill, you can use them on your car's headlights and taillights when you're done too :) If you could down size the process to work from your Dremel tool you could use the process to polish Hotwheels plastic windows. Just know it doesn't work well on heavily textured areas like around that case's letters......
I am sorry to hear you are not well but you did an excellent job of repairing the case. I had this one too and the tutorial brought back a lot of memories. Have a Merry Christmas and thank you for making this.
they were still making these in 78 or 79. i was carrying mine with my collection in it. i was up town when jc penny used to be on the square. (looking back now it was odd that i would be carrying it in the store.) i was about 8 or 9. some older kids were there and one of them ask me were i got it and i told him santa clause brought it to me. that was when i found out there was no santa clause as he so willingly informed me. thanks for the video.
Never seen a HW Rally Case restored. WOW! Just needs the sticker on the inside to be complete. Glad to hear your feeling better. Don't know if you got a flu shot, but I deal with International tourists, so I get one and recommend everyone does. I'm praying for your full recovery. Merry Christmas to you and yours. Merry Christmas to all, and Happy New Year, too!
You and me both sick. I've had it since the 23rd. The doctor told me it was really big going around this time. He ended up giving me prescription cough medication which has really helped.
Maybe very unconventional, but wouldn't a flame be able to 'polish' this type of plastic? Also I believe the paint transfer method with the red paint is usually done with a slightly compressable rubber type mat to make up for irregularities of the plastic itself.
I don't know if anyone already said that, but to paint raised element like that, I use a small peace of sponge, that I fix on a chopstick so it kinda looks like a brush (only the active parts is sponge). Then dip gently in the paint, and with small taps, just cover the raised elements. Works like a charm for bigger elements, maybe it could work on a small scale as well.
Oh dang, let's see that walkman collection sometime! I may have missed it if you've covered it already but I wasn't expecting to see a WM-2 pop up in a redline video.
I am definitely going to give that resin a try for repairing an old vintage Darth Vader Kenner action figure carrying case. I've been trying to think of how to fix the hinge and one of the locking tabs for a while, this seems like a good option. Thank you for sharing :)
Sorry to hear you have been poorly. When I saw your video in my notifications, I clicked, I liked, I watched. Nice to see a little diversification that is still Hot Wheels related. Be well and enjoy the holidays.
I've had good results with this type of plastic using NOVUS #1 plastic cleaner. I believe it has some silicon in it and it works well with restoring some luster to these soft plastics. Sorry about your URI, they can be nasty. Merry Christmas and a Happy New YEar.
Hot glue can be removed super easily from nearly everything using just rubbing alcohol and a q-tip. Saturate the q-tip, touch it to the edge of the glue, the glue will wick the alcohol under itself and break the seal between the glue and the surface. You can then peel it off as if it was never even stuck to the surface.
Epoxy doesn't fully bond with polypropylene and polyethylene - but other attachment methods usually fare even worse. These are the plastics usually chosen for living hinge single-piece constructions. Hot melt glue soaks up ethanol and isopropanol, but is not very soluble in them, also they debond the boundary. So if you dab a droplet of either alcohol at the edge of the hot melt glue piece, after a short time it comes off whatever it was adhered to. It will be a bit crumblier than usual but still cohesive in this state.
You almost got me with that tape comment, "for the next couple years"! I was like, AWWW HELL NO, NOT THE MAD SCIENTIST OF HOT WHEELS!! 😂🤣🤣🤣 Merry Christmas and Happy New Year, feel better!!!
Look into repairing scratches with a heat gun ( lite heat) . If the color is through out it may leach to the outside giving a polished but maybe blotchy finish. As well it should melt away imperfections. (Again lite heat). Research it or try it out.
Whoa. It went from Heavily used to Lightly used. Nice work! Welcome back. If you saw RU-vids latest video about COPPA, your channel should be fine as you do not direct your videos to a young audiance.
I like the resin work around. I have have some mma epoxies that would have fixed that as well. The resin might provide a bit more riditiy if it truly stuck to the plastic
