this long case movement is not a verge but a Anker escarpment YOU SHOULD NOT FEED THE HOLE CABLE THROU THE HOLE But PUT THE SHORT END THROU THE HOLE TIE FIGER OF EIGHT KNOT because you can snag the line and cause a week spot
How did you replace the clicking arm so the cable gear wouldn’t fall or unwind. I have a grandfather clock, cable driven, that simply unwinds when you wind it up. Thx
Thank you for this video! My mother left me a Welsh longcase clock by Grocott of Holywell, and well, it had a little accident when a mover tried to grab it and move with BOTH weights inside! Not to mention my stepdad had let it run down so the weights hit the bottom! Someone then wound it up where the weights were at the very top. Needless to say, I have repaired all wooden pieces, now have it anchored to the wall, straight, and looks as good as I've ever seen it. My only problem is the gut broke on the left side. I'm going to attempt to replace it without having to take the drum off, but please, can you give me more specifics on the gut, and where I can find it?
Natural gut is sold for stringed instrument strings and also tennis rackets. I believe I used size 15L for this clock. You should get enough gut to do both weights from one package.
@@MinnesotaClocksandWatches Hi, the clock is from Scotland, I just looked it up on line. I thought the hands looked either English or Scottish and also the case is Scottish. Thank you for your response.
Thank you for this. Two questions--is it possible to do this with the drums still on the works, assuming I can get to the holes, and make the knot inside the drum? Then just put some tension on and wind it up? Second question, what is the overall length of the piece for each side, for an 8 day movement with 12# weights?
Hi Dan. Yes - it is possible to do this with the movement assembled on many movements - if you can rotate the barrels so you can access the clearance holes on the back of the drums you can probably do it assembled. As to length - if your clock has grooves on the barrel, you want enough cord to completely fill the grooves on the barrel plus about another 12-15 inches, which will cover the drop from the movement around the pulley, back up to the seat board, and for the knot. A 30’ tennis racket gut package is almost perfect - cut it in half and use half for time and half for strike. For extra points, if you make your time weight line slightly shorter than your strike weight, if your clock runs down, then the time weight will hit bottom first and your clock will stop with a little bit of line left on the strike side, meaning you won’t lose synchronization of your strikes to the hour hand (only relevant for count wheel movements; snail cam movements are self-synchronizing).
@@MinnesotaClocksandWatches thank you for commenting. Regarding making the time cord slightly shorter, that makes good sense. I always thought the grandfathers were "self- correcting, "when it comes to sync between time and strike. I say this partly because I've never seen one of of sync, and also because I've come down in the morning a couple of times, and the hands are stuck at 11:47, but the clock is still ticking. I thought there was maybe a release of some kind in there, to prevent damage or stopping. In any case, thanks for your response.
There are two main types of striking mechanisms - count wheel and snail cam. The snail cam is attached to the hour hand in a fixed position, and so the strike is always in sync as the same part the moves the hour hand moves the snail cam which regulates the number of strikes. In a count wheel clock, the count wheel runs separately from the rest of the movement, and if the strike side winds down, the time can carry on and the strike will strike the wrong number of times. This is not a big deal to fix, but you have to lift the count wheel lever enough times to allow the strike to cycle and match up again. Related to your clock stopping at 11:47 but still ticking, you may need a little more pressure on your canoe washer. Essentially the time mechanism of a clock is divided into two parts - the going train that connects the weight or spring through the gears to the escapement, and the hand works that drive the minute and hour hands. What connects these two parts is a clutch mechanism that allows you to set the time. In many tall case clocks, the amount of friction between these two sections is determined by the taper pin and washers that hold the minute hand onto the clock. You might need to increase this tension by adding another washer, pushing your taper pin in farther, or moving to a larger taper pin. Your clock may also require service if wear is affecting the meshing of the gears and/or levers of the strike mechanism.
